Hmm.. says here LRP speedos are assembled in New Orleans.. I wonder if that has anything to do with it.

Maybe LRP is like Sony. You get a good one, it'll last forever and welcome constant abuse. You get a bad one, and it won't work right, ever.

Or, did you piss off a gypsy?

Just theories here, man.

Seems like the only games in town are Tekin, LRP, Novak, Castle, Hobbywing, or some random thing from Hobbyking. Wonder if there are any really good ESCs that can endure high amps, bad landings, and don't cost as much as an RX8? I can find faults with all of them, just by hitting Google. I can also find devotees for just about every model out there.

This industry seriously needs a third-party ESC, motor, and lipo testing resource to wade through the mountain of BS, fake numbers, turns vs. kV, compatibility issues, etc. to give an unbiased, factual review of all the popular (and less popular) products.

If I was loaded, I'd start that up right now because it's sorely needed. Testing by purchasing is lame as hell.

I think I'm going to give something else a try for a speedo. Choices are Tekin, Orion, Hobbywing. From what I was told, Orion is just relabeled Hobbywing?

Can anyone who has used both confirm this?

I know Tekin is quality and very tunable, but I am trying to avoid needing a PC to work on it. That's why i loved LRP.

Thoughts...opinions?

Sounds like you need a Viper VTX10R with a ProGuage.

link me...... I don't know much about them

http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-8-5t-3...-120a-lcd.html

That was the one I was considering

http://viper-rc.com/vtx10r.html
http://viper-rc.com/progauge.html
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...ESC-w-ProGauge

I agree with the viper, best warranty in the business. Actually has a 1 year warranty. Comes with the programmer, and is very well priced. I am very happy with my new combo..

i switched over from lrp to viper, all i can say is....my lrp was sold after a race with viper.

Hi guys,Well after driving my friends Worlds car today I came home and sold my 22. The Worlds car was so much easier to drive for my style of driving. I forgot to ask him does it come with hexes or is it the old pin and bearing wheels?

the worlds comes with pin wheels, with the rear hexes you can run your 22 rear tires if you didnt sell them all.

I did sell them but they were done any way. So pin or hexs in the rear but what in the front? Maybe I don't fully understand your post.

as has been previously posted you can get the hex conversion parts for the car, but to convert the rear it only takes purchasing the actual hexes to be able to run hex wheels in the rear, which jconcepts and proline make rims for b4.1 specifically but 22 rear wheels fit on the conversion.

as for the front you need the sc10rs hex steering blocks, the hex front axles, and front hexes, associated currently produces front wheels, the rb5 front wheels fit, and proline & jconcepts also make hex wheels for the front of the b4.1

http://www.teamassociated.com/news/l...12mm_Hex_Drive for the ae link

jconcepts and proline make aluminum clamping hexes for the conversion too

as for when you get the kit its setup to use bearings in the front wheels, and axle pin wheels in the rear.

So it's the same as my FT SC10. I had to do all that to convert it as well. OK thanks.

I currently run a VTX10 in my B4, VTX1 in my SC10, and the R10 Pro in my T4. I love the Viper equipment but I have been pleased with the Orion. I will never run a motor below 8.5 so I didn't need the VTX10R (it will run the lower turn motors). The VTX1 is the same as the VTX10 with the exception it will run a 1S battery. You do not need a computer for the Viper equipment, you will get a Pro Gauge which is very user friendly. If Viper has new Firmware you can send it to them and they will load the new firmware for no fee or you can buy an adapter to do it yourself. I think it is like $20... For the Orion R10 you will need the Programmer which is like $70 extra. (I heard the Hobbywing programmer works just the same but have not tried it myself, that is like $20) You can load new firmware on the R10 Programmer and than load it to the ESC. Both brands can be programmed by the buttons on the ESC's... If it were me I would go with the Viper VTX10 or VTX10R depending on the turn of motor you will be running.

got to run my new worlds car and boy what a difference from my try 201,had the bb springs,shorty lipo and that thing was really awesome,.Only problem i had all day is a sheared a ball cup in half,weird!Cant wait to get it back on the track next sat for a big race,ill post some pics up later,having some problems with the mac putting pics on here

got to run my new worlds car and boy what a difference from my try 201,had the bb springs,shorty lipo and the c towers and that thing was really awesome,.Only problem i had all day is a sheared a ball cup in half,weird!Cant wait to get it back on the track next sat for a big race,here are a couple quick pics