RC10B4.1 FT/WC
Are many people using the Gear diff for the b4.1?
I was considering one or am I better off sticking to the standard ball diff?
In tourer everyone uses a Gear diff mainly these days, just wondering if its the same for off road
I was considering one or am I better off sticking to the standard ball diff?
In tourer everyone uses a Gear diff mainly these days, just wondering if its the same for off road
Mostly ball can be tuned quickly but needs some attention, gear can't be tuned as easily, but once tuned is rather trouble free. Ball is cheaper and easier, and gear requires the purchase of diff fluids.
If you rebuild and maintain often and don't mind maintenance, go ball. If you don't rebuild and maintain often, and hate maintenance, go gear.
IMO 2wd 1/10 buggy is too light and as a general rule uses far less power effectively to make solid use of a gear diff in a race application.
1/8th 4wd is a different story. A lot of weight and a lot of power is present. As a general rule... grip is far less in offroad when compared to the amount of grip found in asphalt TC... much less carpet.
One could argue tire size and the applicable friction coefficients between these classes... but i think the average drivers power use/abuse plays a larger part.
I would never run a ball diff in a 1/8th class. Gear diffs in high HP TC are awesome. But for 1/10 2wd... gimme balls. LOL
1/8th 4wd is a different story. A lot of weight and a lot of power is present. As a general rule... grip is far less in offroad when compared to the amount of grip found in asphalt TC... much less carpet.
One could argue tire size and the applicable friction coefficients between these classes... but i think the average drivers power use/abuse plays a larger part.
I would never run a ball diff in a 1/8th class. Gear diffs in high HP TC are awesome. But for 1/10 2wd... gimme balls. LOL
Tech Initiate
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Feb 2012
Posts: 34
What are the correct limiters to put in the shocks? .030 nylon washers or the different size plastic shims that come on the plastic tree in the shock rebuild kit 6440. I'm running the b4.1 worlds kit... Thanks
Just found it thanks .030 nylon washers
Just found it thanks .030 nylon washers
Hey guys....
I had posted a few months ago asking about the brand new B4 kit I owned and just started building.
At the time, I asked about the 8 mm chassis and the answer I got was that the 4.1 conversion was not a big difference...and for the small indoors track I am using it on, the shorted chassis might be an advantage..
that being said, my friend just finished his new Worlds car and it really handles nice...
So I am conflicted, again..
Is it worth doing JUST the chassis...
and is JUST the chassis a direct replacement...
Also, I noticed that the new Worlds car has that great place to put ballast in the rear..
Obviously, just changing the chassis on mine wopn't allow me that option without upgrading other parts so where are you guys adding ballast on a standard b4?
Thanks,.,
for bashing =gear diff
racing = ball diff
fast harry
even on the tightest, smallest tracks the longer (8m) chassis prevails...
Every B4 has that fancy little spot to put the ballast weight in. Always has. Only difference is that the worlds car comes with the weight.
Here's a link to a plethora of various B4 set ups. Hope it helps:
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...tedRC10B4.html
http://www.petitrc.com/setup/associa...tedRC10B4.html
Specifically from the 2010 or 2011 Cactus Classic, any starting point would be good.
Cheers
Thanks WC...
Matt, I don'[t think you can put the weights in between the rear arms on the B4 like you can on the worlds...
It looks like the rear arm holder is different. Am I wrong?
Just what i like
This is quoted by J Bone in the SC10 thread
"Ball diff, gear diff....I believe it's situational on the track type and personal driving styles. If you check the AE setups you will notice some guys are running gear diff's with good results.
From my short time running Short Course trucks I've noticed a bit of difference in the diff's. Now, this is just my experience with the two diff's and no setup changes were changed other than the diff.
Gear diff = Worked really well on high bite tracks where traction is good. I got great steering while on the throttle and it had no problems with side traction or forward bite. The problem for me is, that's not the type of dirt at my closest track. It's clay with OK traction when wet, but once it dries out it's slippery. When I try to get on the throttle mid turn with the gear diff, it would loose traction and spin out fast and forward bite was not so great as it wanted to fish tail on the straits. I did try different diff oils, but results for me were the same.
Ball diff = Worked really well on medium to low traction type dirt (did not drive it on the high bite track). I was able to get on the throttle more aggressively coming out of corners and it stopped spinning out and fish tailing. Which was great for my local track. The one negative I noticed was that I lost mid corner steering while on the throttle. So I had to drive it harder into the corner and square up before I got on the gas or feather the throttle through the corner.
I'm going to make some chassis adjustments to regain some of the on-power steering while keeping the ball diff as I preferred it in this truck. Which is a bummer for me since I'm a gear diff guy from my 1/8th scale days and tons of diff oils to choose from.
This is just my interpretation and experiences as I'm not a Mechanical engineer (just a career Mechanic by trade) and know the design philosophy behind the gear diff vs. ball diff.
On a second note:
The word around the water cooler(track) was to use carbide balls in the diff and ceramic on the thrust bolt. Yes the ceramic bearings will last longer than the carbide but were more susceptible to slipping because of the hardness and low friction. But worked fantastic on the thrust bolt.
I can see this have some kind of truth to it as I used ceramic bearings (17+ years) at work (which are water lubricated and impervious to harsh chemicals) and the reason we use ceramic bearings is because of the hardness and low friction. "
Also they didn't change any plastic parts on the worlds kit besides the chassis.
Yep, but I have a standard B4, not a 4.1..
I looked at the manuals online and the lower arm mounts are different..but, I could be wrong.



