That's what I was thinking. Since my butt is so planted with the center diff and 3/3 block. Why not shorten the wheelbase and cause some more rotation in the rear, and weight transfer into the front. Few have talked about this with this ride, so I am very interested on how it would work with all these high dollar 3rd party mods we have on our trucks. That's been my main problem is as soon as a throttle on. The Truck darts forward. I love the Center diff, but mantis made this thing for what the truck wasn't able to do before. (blown out large tracks, and I kick some ass on them as a result of his work) Now indoors, I think the center diff hurts the performance without some extensive rethinking. (I LOVE MY CENTER DIFF. BUY ONE. I only mean for my current available Track)

+ The 3/3 Block plants the rear end or loosens it up, I can't remember?
+ Shortening the wheelbase will cause the rear to rotate quicker?
+ With V1 Center diff's Amazing performance but hindering rear rotation on Highbite...
= Center diff that Rotates? I'm brainstorming. You can see the video of the Track if you mind putting in your thoughts.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qVw_Lb2Q5Ic

If I don't figure something out, I will have to pack the c-diff away for the summer when the outdoor tracks open.

too bad that instead of ADDING an idler you couldn't remove the rear tranny idler and lower the spur etc.....

Doing this would reverse the rotation of the belt system aswell, where adding the extra idler gear only reverses the rotation of the motor itself. cool idea though.

Just hold tight for a few more weeks V2 is close to production. Wouldnt you rather have the Cdif on the outdoor tracks?

Hey Cam,

sent ya a p mail

Thanks

O&S

Do they make a 2 degree or 2.5 degree toe block?

Also, anyone know based on looking at the blocks if an insert setup could be done like is seen on some other vehicles so you can just change the inserts?

Remember having something like that on my mugen back in the day, really liked it.

The toe is locked in. I have seen some rear hubs with more toe made and maybe someone could reverse them to get less toe but I don't think less toe would help. Maybe STRC will offer a rear toe block with less toe if there is enough interest from people.

thanks for the info.

Mainly was going off of past experience with how much the change in toe freed up the rear end on other vehicles when I went with less.

Shortening the wheelbase will put more weight on the rear tires. If anything, I'd think you would want to try going longer.

I have been doing some research at the local track, weighing every truck I could get my hands on. Every truck I measured has at least 51% of it's weight on the front axle except for the AE, which has about 46% - and that's with a 540 motor. Once you put a 550 motor in, that increases rear bias another 2% or so. Or another way, the Losi had the same rear wheel weight as the AE truck with a 550 motor in it (720), and another 190 grams per wheel on the front. No kidding those guys can drop the hammer and put the power down, and no kidding the AE trucks out turn them.

I added 3 ounces of tungsten to the chassis between the servo and the front bulkhead, and another 1 1/2 ounces in the front most part of the bumper. This has been the best the truck ever handled, but it has another new problem - the weight is spread out to the ends of the chassis now, kind of like a barbell. It's hard to get it to start rotating, and it's hard to get it to stop. I think I got another 1% of bias to the front for my trouble.

All the guys who are commenting on how good the Losi's mannars (and the Jammin/Ofna/Hyper/Hong Nor ones) are in the air, well, there it is. The battery and the motor are close to the middle, and if you hold it by the front and back bumper and twist it fore and aft, then pick up an AE truck and try the same thing, you'll see what I mean.

And compounding the whole issue is my AE truck is down on power. To get it to weigh right, it needs a 540 motor. My choice in motor suppliers doesn't make a four pole, so I'm stuck with running a motor with 420w of output where any 550 will make 800w. That's no bueno if you want to quad the stuff that other guys can and you can't make it without a bermshot and adding a 1/2 second to your lap time.

I'm not selling my SC10, and I'm not giving up on it, but I have come to the conclusion I'm spending far too much time working and thinking about this truck and not nearly enough time actually enjoying it.

Very well put it, i was perfectly content with my truck until they redid our track.

Thank you. I am very analytic, and data driven, and I think I finally put my finger on what the problems with the SC10 4x4 are in certain situations after several weeks/months of plugging away at it.

Sadly, I'm unable to fix without making major concessions in other areas, so I'll be going to the Xray conversion as soon as it's available. I think it's my best option at this point. If I raced mostly indoor, I doubt I'd care because it wouldn't be an issue.

I understand fully. I am not so much data driven but I need to see/feel something before i can count it out. Lucky for me i can afford to machine and try out things to help the masses and i hope this reverse rotation gig works! Ordered an ESC today so will have some feedback this weekend!

That's what I was saying:

Use MTK Basket indoors
Use RCSHOX Center Diff (version 1) outdoors.

And as always, Craig. Thanks for that information about the wheelbase and the weight. I'm going to look at that myself as soon as I can half way get around this track.

I have this sunday before they redo the Track, so I have one more day to test before I get to start over. (having the track down in muscle memory to feel the tuning over my shitty driving for another week)

What are the advantages/disadvantages of using either a slipper setup or center diff on an indoor track?

Can someone help me? How does the higher or low fluid effect the diff action? What changes when you go from 10k to 30k in the front. Or 5k to 3k in the rear?

Thanks guys, no experience with gear diffs before.