5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
11-07-2011 | 10:38 PM
If you need the truck to rotate more, you can remove the pin. Most of the successful guys running the decoupled slipper are also running the front overdrive pulley which would help tighten the truck up on power, I'd assume.
That's the one thing I never tried was the overdrive pulley.
That's the one thing I never tried was the overdrive pulley.
Now with the clutch basket system that overpowers the rear end so much the front OD pulley really helps equalize the F/R power ratio. It really makes the car easier to push harder through the chicanes, sweepers, etc.
11-08-2011 | 12:08 AM
11-08-2011 | 12:15 AM
Okay God Dammit...
This damned Rear diff situation is murdering my soul. Yes. This is "4cereal".
The diff is locking up on 1/4 of the rotation, binding to the point of actually causing the Diff to slip and rotate the Other joint the opposing direction while the Topshaft continues to spin. You'll notice, in the video. I'm spinning it at the same speed the entire time in half turns. I have narrowed it down to the actual Diff itself. (removing the Idler gear and reinstalling the Diff housing. It only binds after it's installed. I have loosened the Bolts, I can just squeeze the case with my hand gently and cause a slight bind. I've cleaned every inch of that housing, and replaced the bearings. There is 'no' rubbing indication anywhere inside the housing.
Video via ImageShack
This stuff is pretty obvious to me, and I've fixed every little thing up to this point without alot of assistance. (other than the slipper way back when. ugh) but this has got me confused. The only thing I haven't done is replace the Diff itself. Which isn't in the cards in my opinion only because the diff looks perfect. Ahh!
This damned Rear diff situation is murdering my soul. Yes. This is "4cereal".
The diff is locking up on 1/4 of the rotation, binding to the point of actually causing the Diff to slip and rotate the Other joint the opposing direction while the Topshaft continues to spin. You'll notice, in the video. I'm spinning it at the same speed the entire time in half turns. I have narrowed it down to the actual Diff itself. (removing the Idler gear and reinstalling the Diff housing. It only binds after it's installed. I have loosened the Bolts, I can just squeeze the case with my hand gently and cause a slight bind. I've cleaned every inch of that housing, and replaced the bearings. There is 'no' rubbing indication anywhere inside the housing.
Video via ImageShack
This stuff is pretty obvious to me, and I've fixed every little thing up to this point without alot of assistance. (other than the slipper way back when. ugh) but this has got me confused. The only thing I haven't done is replace the Diff itself. Which isn't in the cards in my opinion only because the diff looks perfect. Ahh!
11-08-2011 | 12:21 AM
Option 1: You're intending that statement to include your driving habits, skill, handing, and style. Then be my guest.
Option 2: It's a general statement, then: You're a tool.
(The possibility that you are not a tool is by choosing option 1, and option 2's resulting 'tool position' is void, and only applies if option 2 is chosen. Summary: You should only be offended by this post if you chose option 2. )
11-08-2011 | 12:24 AM
Tech Master
iTrader: (120)
Joined: Apr 2011
Posts: 1,076
From: SoCal - Chillin in the LBC
Okay Guys. I need Help. This is starting to piss me off.
1:
- Truck's dialed. You all know i've gone through 2 idlers so far.
- Just installed a brand new belt (old one lasted 6 months)
- clicker Teeth are spanking sharp and new looking, and locked out. (full 4x4)
- Set to stock tension
- 550 castle 1415, no basket, pinned Slipper
3t
I, for God's sake... Cannot find this clicking noise. I know some have asked about it... but It's not the belt skipping. I *idiot* torqued down the belt just to prove to myself that the belt wasn't skipping and of course stretched the belt out pre-maturely. It's more of a plasticky click from what I 'think' is coming from the rear.
It sounds EXACTLY like the belt skipping but it's under acceleration until I get to speed and it stops. Sounds like it's coming from the rear gearbox. But I have it open and everything's clean and nice. I'm pulling my hair out. I stopped driving on a BEAUTIFUL sunday because it was upsetting me. No loss of power, nothing, just a blech clicking.
------------------------------------------------
2:
My Diffs. All i've ever read (if I missed it, I apologize) was your O-rings are causing the floppy drives. Well mine look great and My drives are getting "BAD" wobble now. I was ignoring it and not worrying but now it's getting drastic wobble.
They look fine. Is it the Brass inner bushing that's the real problem? Thanks for the help as always guys.
1:
- Truck's dialed. You all know i've gone through 2 idlers so far.
- Just installed a brand new belt (old one lasted 6 months)
- clicker Teeth are spanking sharp and new looking, and locked out. (full 4x4)
- Set to stock tension
- 550 castle 1415, no basket, pinned Slipper
3t
I, for God's sake... Cannot find this clicking noise. I know some have asked about it... but It's not the belt skipping. I *idiot* torqued down the belt just to prove to myself that the belt wasn't skipping and of course stretched the belt out pre-maturely. It's more of a plasticky click from what I 'think' is coming from the rear.
It sounds EXACTLY like the belt skipping but it's under acceleration until I get to speed and it stops. Sounds like it's coming from the rear gearbox. But I have it open and everything's clean and nice. I'm pulling my hair out. I stopped driving on a BEAUTIFUL sunday because it was upsetting me. No loss of power, nothing, just a blech clicking.
------------------------------------------------
2:
My Diffs. All i've ever read (if I missed it, I apologize) was your O-rings are causing the floppy drives. Well mine look great and My drives are getting "BAD" wobble now. I was ignoring it and not worrying but now it's getting drastic wobble.
They look fine. Is it the Brass inner bushing that's the real problem? Thanks for the help as always guys.
Last edited by jamr1130; 11-08-2011 at 12:55 AM.
11-08-2011 | 12:33 AM
Tech Legend
Joined: Aug 2001
Posts: 22,595
From: TRCR Modified Driver
Coyote , your right , I'm wrong ....
hope you feel better ...
Note :
I was the first to tell you guys about the pin , and probably one of first to test his own not counting some of the Ae team drivers
hope you feel better ...
Note :
I was the first to tell you guys about the pin , and probably one of first to test his own not counting some of the Ae team drivers
11-08-2011 | 12:47 AM
Yes I do. 
That gives you reign over everyone else's experiences and judgement? Those guys who ranted about how amazing the pin was at their track and with their driving style? How it shaved time, maybe even an entire second or maybe two! off a lap? All of that... I can only imagine you must claim some kind of divine knowledge about the pin, that we all can't sense in our own driving that we just 'feel' better about our trucks and the pin actually isn't doing anything; if you'd even bring that silly piece of information up.
Now you are a tool.
Edit: I'm really not trying to start an argument... But you're being incredibly arrogant.
Now you are a tool.
Edit: I'm really not trying to start an argument... But you're being incredibly arrogant.
11-08-2011 | 01:50 AM
Tech Regular
Joined: Oct 2011
Posts: 292
From: Hawkes Bay. New Zealand
I found on our loose bumpy track with the pin mod and 19t pulley up front the truck was hard to drive and had a shocking push on power, going back to the 20t pulley was better for me, maybe it just comes down to the track and how you drive, we work hard to find grip on our tracks in NZ, were as you guys in the US seem to do the opposite on your indoor clay type tracks, like its been said you just have to find what works for you and your track.
I'm running stock clutch setup and feel it's working fine, I have the HD pads but not sure about trying them yet, stock setup seems to work good with the CC 3800 540.
I'm running stock clutch setup and feel it's working fine, I have the HD pads but not sure about trying them yet, stock setup seems to work good with the CC 3800 540.
11-08-2011 | 04:28 AM
I also have the clicking noise under hard acceleration that you guys are describing.
I went through everything just as you did and cannot find a source.
I actually have come back to it may be belt skip. I have a chassis brace, new belt, new gears and a CA glued clicker.
I decided I am just going to run it til something breaks or strips.
I have been doing this for 5 to 6 race nights and nothing has shown itself. It also has not gotten worse. I expected it to get worse over time but it only happens on the same 2 places on our track and is very predictable.
It is always just after exit of a hard right turn. I am thinking it may be twist in the chassis allowing the belt to slack?
Our layout changes this week so I will see if it keeps happening and where.
I went through everything just as you did and cannot find a source.
I actually have come back to it may be belt skip. I have a chassis brace, new belt, new gears and a CA glued clicker.
I decided I am just going to run it til something breaks or strips.
I have been doing this for 5 to 6 race nights and nothing has shown itself. It also has not gotten worse. I expected it to get worse over time but it only happens on the same 2 places on our track and is very predictable.
It is always just after exit of a hard right turn. I am thinking it may be twist in the chassis allowing the belt to slack?
Our layout changes this week so I will see if it keeps happening and where.
11-08-2011 | 05:38 AM
only good one
i must have the only trouble free sc10 4x4 out there .
1 i am pinned with 19 tooth pulley
2 MTK clutch basket
3 braced
4 RPM arms front and rear
5 factory team shocks front and rear
6 powered by RX8 pro4 4000 62/13 Orion carbon pro 6500 90C normal setup
with 28 grams left front and 24grams right front of servo
all original gears in the transmissions i run 3k front 5k rear and my truck is so quite you can hardly hear it
i do know that some other guys around here are also having issues with noise and such but their noise it do to lack of maintenance neglect
1 i am pinned with 19 tooth pulley
2 MTK clutch basket
3 braced
4 RPM arms front and rear
5 factory team shocks front and rear
6 powered by RX8 pro4 4000 62/13 Orion carbon pro 6500 90C normal setup
with 28 grams left front and 24grams right front of servo
all original gears in the transmissions i run 3k front 5k rear and my truck is so quite you can hardly hear it
i do know that some other guys around here are also having issues with noise and such but their noise it do to lack of maintenance neglect