http://www.kopropo.com/america/index...=24&Itemid=126

Most KO rx's handle an input voltage 4.8-7.4V

You will probably be fine going straight but if you want to be sure, you can wire the pack into the switch. It works great.

I was going to post the diagram for you but I had a crash the other day and now all my pics are missing

I gotcha both covered

Thanks for the input guys!

I had since found the diagram but thank you for posting it here...I'm a "visual learner" kinda guy and couldn't wrap my head around the description of it but it makes total sense to me now that I've seen the diagram. I think I'll probably wire up a tiny Lipo that way.

Cheers,
Mike

Mike, get a tq booster from someone at the track. I'll show you mine on Friday night. You just solder the wires to the terminals on the esc and plug it into the receiver and use the switch on the booster. No extra pack to charge, no extra weight, don't have to worry about anything. You just need to plug a 2s pack in at the start to change the lipo cutoff and set it up using a hotwire .After that 1s will work fine to setup boost using a hotwire.

you are correct that the ko servo and receiver can tolerate the 2s lipo voltage but NOT the tekin rs.

you need to add a booster to the 1s battery, or use the 2s life battery, or do the BEC wiring trick on the picture above.

I've actually been running the same RSPro for three years with a 7.4 lipo plugged directly into my rx. MAy not be recommended but I haven't had problem one, and I race twice a week.

Take care!! That works for a Tekin because it can handle up to 3S input voltage. It will not work with any speedo that is designed for a maximum of 2S input voltage - you will release the built-in smoke!!!

It will not work at all for a Hobbywing, and I think it will make an LRP turn from blue to black! HTH

I am having difficulty figuring out the best way to set kingpin length on my CRC gen-xl. I know that both the manual and Mark Payne's blog mention that while the front end is off the car, you just thread the kingpin in until there is a slight amount of preload and the spring just touches the e-clip the whole way around.

However, I am also familiar with the CRC driver's .404" is god method. This method appeals to my precise nature (more so than "screw in until just a slight amount of preload"). But, given the nature of CRC parts (inaccuracies, imperfections, etc), you essentially never get two front springs of equal length. Thus, the .404" method is no longer valid.

What I have been trying to do is set the kingpins at a certain length equal on both sides, and then placing the complete car (with electronics, battery, etc) on a level surface. I then adjust kingpin length until droop looks equal on both sides of the car. This method seems to work ok, but I really dislike the imprecision of it all. My eye certainly can't see a difference that could potentially make for a poorly handling car.

Anybody have any recommendations? Am I overthinking all of this? Thanks for any and all help, it is much appreciated.

New Avatar for Mr. David Berger Region 12 TQ and Winner of 12th Stock and WGT



http://www.reedypower.com/

Personally I don;t do either. Here is what I do.

I usually buy a few of each spring rates at a time and I will open all the packages of each rate at a time ad using my calipers measure each one and match them up by height. this way I get as close to the same springs as possible. I also double check the thickness of the spring wire as I have had packages with 2 different spring rates in them.

Then with the springs installed on the kingpins I leave them just loose where there is some play in spring to retainer.

Put the car with freshly cut tires and check the ride height and then adjust the ride height so it;s equal and both sides have a little droop in the front.


Then set the side springs to tweak the car and poof ready to run

I do exactly the same thing, with the exception of running each set twice, rotating after one run, to compensate for "spring settling" after 2" loaded runs", to equalize each set.

Now there is a good Idea. I do compress the springs a few times before measuring to try and get a settled spring size

Guess, I'm Old Skool. The Old Block Front-end had a certain proclivity for collapsing springs, so this was a learned behavior. Just one more step towards total pan car consistency......

I recently bent a front axle in an older t-bar Hyperdrive 1/12, upon removing the axle I'm unsure as to its maker, anyone know baised on the pic? As you can see it is held in place with a c-clip and has a bunch of ribs running along its length also. The fontend looks like an IRS oval unit but I'm not for sure there. Thanks