I saw a disassembled Penske shock from some race car application about 15 years ago that looked exactly like the MIP unit. Except you could change the shims in the bypass packing to change exactly when and how the shock would change valving, and the oil was forced through the middle, in the MIP unit you change out the whole bypass so it's a little more rudimentary. The hex IMO is just to keep the discs centered in the bore, and it forces the oil around the edges.

I don't think there's anything wrong with the shock technology. What IS wrong with it is nobody has a 1/10 size shock dyno to get it a setup that complex dialed in. And even if somebody made a quality one, I'm not sure anybody in RC would be able to figure it out.

Looks interesting.

http://realshocks.com/Instructions.html

From what I can see they are basing it on full scale bypass shock theory. look at this it might explain it for you. http://youtu.be/nPa1KrbiEZM Not exact but similar in theory. Will this work in the rc world? Who knows. I know it works in full scale.

I think AE has a shock dyno or something. Heard an AE engineer talking in the pits about testing ghea pistons."on our shock dyno there is not much of a difference"

Could be hearing it wrong, I was pitting a couple of spots down.

I know what you are saying, however ROAR is very slow to update their manuals. In fact, in the "official" rulebook, they still specify "05" Size brushless motors, which are essentially 540, 2-pole motors. All 550 motors are longer than the maximum length for an "05" motor.

(See rule 8.10.13.2 for the rule relating to 4x4 SC racing, and rule 8.8.4 defining what an "05" motor is.)

With that being said, if you look at their "Approved motor list and check for the "4x4SC" class, most 550 motors and the 540 4-pole Pro4 motors are all on the list.

http://www.roarracing.com/approvals/...lessmotors.php


If you're at a ROAR Rules race, or a ROAR sanctioned event, then I could see it going one of two ways:

1) If they follow the rulebook to the letter, then everyone will be running 540 2-pole motors.
2) If anyone is allowed to run a 550, then they have to allow the 4-pole Tekin motors for the same reason. (You might have a hard time pressing them to allow other 4-pole motors as none are on the approved list for that class. You MIGHT be able to get away with the castle 1410 as it is approved in the "Modified" class. It's the entry for "060-0021-00 3600KV")

1. I actually put in these shims:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...r-5x15x03mm-10

No parasitic drag, thicker single shim for less deformation and outdrive wobble
Larger OD seems to be helping with the wobble too.

I found that 2 0.2mm shims was OK on one side of the diff, with 1 0.2mm on the other. I can't remember which side, but one side of the diff housing really seemed to bind up when I had 2 shims under it, and I'd rather keep using the same thickness on both sides so that I don't have to worry about what part I'm putting where.

2. Mine do the same thing, and I'm 99% certain they did that from new.

Cool so it must have changed now. I figured it would change this year. Telling Tekin their motor can't be used would be like telling Chevy they can't race Nascar.

Understood. What I ment to write is "no sportsman racer has access to one". I used to know a guy who races a full size sprint cars (multiple time track champion) who has a shock dyno permanently installed in his race car trailer. He's a normal guy with a normal job who races for a hobby, and this was like 7 or 8 years ago.

I need an opinion.... Im at the part in the build where I could install my clutch basket and garodiscs. I was going to just install the garodisc for now. Do I just replace the stock pads with the garodisc?

Thanks!

Yes, Although I would also put in the clutch basket from the get go, MTK has installation instructions on his site.

Chad, many thanks for the reply! But I'm not sure just adding as many weights in each slot is the answer... Yes, the truck could be more stable... but it also could be slower and held back by all the extra weight. Basically, I was hoping that someone on here found the right compromise between enough weight to make the Truck feel more planted but not too much weight where it would also slow it down... hence the question of how many AE weights to install on ecach slot on each side to acheive both better balance and a more planted/stable feel... especially on jumps and fast corners/sweepers...

Just hoping someone with a lot more experience with the truck has taken the time to find this sweet spot!

Hey thanks again for sharing your sugestions!

anyone got a recommendation where to purchase 4 scales for a good price?

Those "little" weights is not going to make the truck so heavy that it will slow it down. I do not think many people put the weights in the chassis slots expect for a couple people. The only way for you to find the sweet spot for you is to try 1 weight in each slot then 2 and see what you like better.

FYI no matter how many weights you add in the slots it still doesnt weigh as much as the Exotek chassis and alot of people run that chassis and have nothing to say but good things about it. I have never heard of people complaining about adding weight or running the Exotek chassis and it makes there truck feel "sluggish"

Check Amazon.com and you should be able to pick up some scales for less than 10 bucks each. Make sure they are 1,000G though.

I run the exotek chassis and the pro 4 4600. Slow or held back is not even in the same catagory as this truck. It's definetly a sweet spot