5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
01-25-2012 | 06:02 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (2)
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 141
From: Sydney
The only time my belt has popped off was due to the pulley on the tentioner. The pulley was somehow damaged and the lip/edge that prevents the belt from wandering was broken off and allowed the belt to wander off the pulley. It occured after a very nasty lawn dart.
Other than that incident I have yet to have any belt skipping teeth or popping off with or without my chassis brace!
With that said I still recommend a brace for those who dont yet have one.
Super easy to make and very cheap to buy through aftermarket.
Other than that incident I have yet to have any belt skipping teeth or popping off with or without my chassis brace!
With that said I still recommend a brace for those who dont yet have one.
Super easy to make and very cheap to buy through aftermarket.
If you take a look at the front pulley under brake/belt tension, it will flex upwards where it is mounted to the cover, resulting in the belt either coming off or riding hard on the outer edge/lip of the pulley until its damaged. Im looking at my own truck and can see it happenning. The solution Im thinking of so far is some kind of metal mount for the pulley like what the rear pulley is mounted so it wont flex.
To the people that want to call names and whatever, you are only embarressing yourselves. Have you taken the time to look at your truck under belt tension and see what Im talking about?
01-25-2012 | 06:04 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 289
From: SoCal
After the Pro4 race last night the guy that usually wins comes up to me and says, "Hey, once you buy a Losi you will be really good".
Grrrrrrr.......I am not giving up on this truck.
I was all over him in 2nd place until I traction rolled.
Track was tacky and I was over driving the truck.
Note to self....slower is faster.
Grrrrrrr.......I am not giving up on this truck.
I was all over him in 2nd place until I traction rolled.
Track was tacky and I was over driving the truck.
Note to self....slower is faster.
01-25-2012 | 06:15 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 289
From: SoCal
Yesss. I thought I was the only one with the problem? I wonder how this happened? The other people that said they have had the belt come off under brakes earlier, this is how it happens:
If you take a look at the front pulley under brake/belt tension, it will flex upwards where it is mounted to the cover, resulting in the belt either coming off or riding hard on the outer edge/lip of the pulley until its damaged. Im looking at my own truck and can see it happenning. The solution Im thinking of so far is some kind of metal mount for the pulley like what the rear pulley is mounted so it wont flex.
To the people that want to call names and whatever, you are only embarressing yourselves. Have you taken the time to look at your truck under belt tension and see what Im talking about?
If you take a look at the front pulley under brake/belt tension, it will flex upwards where it is mounted to the cover, resulting in the belt either coming off or riding hard on the outer edge/lip of the pulley until its damaged. Im looking at my own truck and can see it happenning. The solution Im thinking of so far is some kind of metal mount for the pulley like what the rear pulley is mounted so it wont flex.
To the people that want to call names and whatever, you are only embarressing yourselves. Have you taken the time to look at your truck under belt tension and see what Im talking about?
My truck is new.
When testing on the street with too much brake the belt would skip.
Turning down the brake power to just below where the belt would skip solved the belt skipping issue and still gave me excellen braking as I previously stated. I have come up short on a quad at my track multiple times, stabbed the nose, and have not had the belt come off. None the less, I bought a chassis brace to keep the belt slack in check.
If you are having issues with your belt coming off after adjusting your brake power, I suggest again that you have something wrong with your truck. Maybe something is bent, out of alingment, or your belt tension pulley bearing is wasted. Just some ideas but what you describe is not normal. I have never experienced any issues with the belt coming off even under severe nose stabs at full race speeds.
01-25-2012 | 06:40 PM
Looks great!
I know how you feel. I have both of my trucks prepped and ready to go but was unable to get to the track today since they just did a new layout and want to give it time to set up. Really blows when you are all ready to get out there......and cant! Looks like that truck is ready for action. Hope you get out soon!
Sal
01-25-2012 | 06:52 PM
I'll have to get my fix by running 2wd again, that's ok I've learned a lot about it, as long as I'm running every weekend it's all good.
With all the mantisworks upgrades done to it, it's going to feel like a completely different truck.
With all the mantisworks upgrades done to it, it's going to feel like a completely different truck.
01-25-2012 | 06:57 PM
Mantisworx...
enjoy the 2wd....I havent run mine in weeks. Hooked on the 4wd SC....I have about 6 times out TOTAL with this truck. Considering I have never driven 4wd before, I love it! Soon I will start going on Race days. Time is the ENEMY....lol. Been over a dozen years since I have raced. Too long.
Sal
01-25-2012 | 07:04 PM
Well the plan is to dial in the 2wd to be more competitive. I've learned a lot of things with the setup on it and it is much easier to drive now.
Naturally I liked the 4x4 better because of the traction and speed it had but it still felt too twitchy for me and I had a lot of things wrong with it , now it should be all dialed in and easier to drive, glad I sent it to Marcus, he went thru it with a fine tooth comb. It will be race ready out of the box,
Naturally I liked the 4x4 better because of the traction and speed it had but it still felt too twitchy for me and I had a lot of things wrong with it , now it should be all dialed in and easier to drive, glad I sent it to Marcus, he went thru it with a fine tooth comb. It will be race ready out of the box,
01-25-2012 | 07:13 PM
2wd....
I have yet to run my 2wd with a 17.5 motor in it. I have a CC 1406 5700kv in there right now. It replaced the RTR motor. Since I hadnt been near a car in so long I cheated and bought the RTR....it was fun to break...lol. I have been running it on the street more than the track. Really funny/scary when you pull the nose with a 3s pack and learn how to run faster on your lid than wheels...lol.
Sal
Sal
01-25-2012 | 08:29 PM
Tech Adept
iTrader: (1)
Joined: Mar 2011
Posts: 118
From: Hilliard, OH
I started with an RTR, tore it down, and put 30K in the front diff to start.
It made a huge difference going from 30K to 10K in the front diff. With 30K the truck felt more stable as the front pulled more with the heavier fluid. The down side was that it did not turn as quick as I would have liked. On tight turns I would dive in hard, get on the brakes, get the truck turned, and then get back on the throttle. Not the fastest way around the track. When the track was a little drier I could power slide through the turn without the backend coming around and it was fun. Last night the track was super tacky and I could not slide it. I put in 10K int he front diff and the truck was a completely different animal. It would turn on a dime but the truck was a lot more twitchy. I put 2mm washers under the front ball stud (outside position on tower) and it took some twitchyness out and still allowed me to turn tight but the rear end was a little loose for my liking. I need to work on this setup as I do like the 10K in the front but now need to work on chassis setup to get it where I want it.
I have not tried the overdrive pulley with the 10K in front. Something to try I guess. Most people at my track that run this truck (not many) prefer not to run the overdrive. It doesn't take long to throw the overdrive in and readjust the belt tension at the track to try. I noticed that Mayfield ran 30K diff fluid with overdrive in the front at the Reedy race which was run at my track. This was blue groove though and our club races typically run water prepped.
It made a huge difference going from 30K to 10K in the front diff. With 30K the truck felt more stable as the front pulled more with the heavier fluid. The down side was that it did not turn as quick as I would have liked. On tight turns I would dive in hard, get on the brakes, get the truck turned, and then get back on the throttle. Not the fastest way around the track. When the track was a little drier I could power slide through the turn without the backend coming around and it was fun. Last night the track was super tacky and I could not slide it. I put in 10K int he front diff and the truck was a completely different animal. It would turn on a dime but the truck was a lot more twitchy. I put 2mm washers under the front ball stud (outside position on tower) and it took some twitchyness out and still allowed me to turn tight but the rear end was a little loose for my liking. I need to work on this setup as I do like the 10K in the front but now need to work on chassis setup to get it where I want it.
I have not tried the overdrive pulley with the 10K in front. Something to try I guess. Most people at my track that run this truck (not many) prefer not to run the overdrive. It doesn't take long to throw the overdrive in and readjust the belt tension at the track to try. I noticed that Mayfield ran 30K diff fluid with overdrive in the front at the Reedy race which was run at my track. This was blue groove though and our club races typically run water prepped.
01-25-2012 | 08:44 PM
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 289
From: SoCal
Do you have the sway bars F/R?
I run 2.0 F/R and can't imgine driving withou them.
I run blue springs F/R with 1.2 pistons and 32.5/27.5 AE shock fluid.
Bladder built with top x-ring removed, no boots, and external limiters.
Run 3turns out rear and 2 turns front on bottom shock mount.
Factory camber link locations.
Inline saddle lipos.
Having to test different ball stud heights going from 30K to 10k front diff fluid to settle truck down but has much better on power steering. Need to find happy medium.
I run 2.0 F/R and can't imgine driving withou them.
I run blue springs F/R with 1.2 pistons and 32.5/27.5 AE shock fluid.
Bladder built with top x-ring removed, no boots, and external limiters.
Run 3turns out rear and 2 turns front on bottom shock mount.
Factory camber link locations.
Inline saddle lipos.
Having to test different ball stud heights going from 30K to 10k front diff fluid to settle truck down but has much better on power steering. Need to find happy medium.
01-25-2012 | 08:53 PM
Im looking at my own truck and can see it happenning. The solution Im thinking of so far is some kind of metal mount for the pulley like what the rear pulley is mounted so it wont flex.
To the people that want to call names and whatever, you are only embarressing yourselves. Have you taken the time to look at your truck under belt tension and see what Im talking about?
To the people that want to call names and whatever, you are only embarressing yourselves. Have you taken the time to look at your truck under belt tension and see what Im talking about?
