SC10 4x4 Thread
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 289
From: SoCal
Kbmoss - Many thanks for the detailed reply! It is appreciated! So I guess the choice is to use The Pinned Shaft with a slipper pad combo of the Garodisks, HD Pads and/or Stock Slipper Pads.... OR The MTK Clutch Basket with the Garodisk, HD Pads and/or Stock Slipper Pads... to avoid the Idler Gear from getting chewed... Correct?
Any suggestions on what Slipper Pad combo works best with either set-up considering the truck will be running outdoors with big jumps... and probably hard landings? 
Thanks again for taking the time to share some info! I hope I can get the truck ready for testing during the week!
Any suggestions on what Slipper Pad combo works best with either set-up considering the truck will be running outdoors with big jumps... and probably hard landings? 
Thanks again for taking the time to share some info! I hope I can get the truck ready for testing during the week!

Well wouldn't ya know it, this has all come about since I installed the FT shocks without boots
can't believe I didn't think of this. Thanks for the tips guys, I'll need to compensate the up travel with limiters now that I have no boots.
I'm assuming the limiters clip to the shock shaft under the rubber ring??
Also, since upgrading my ESC motor to the RX8 Pro 4 4000kV, I've killed 2 batteries, melted the bullet socket on the positive termianls.
My C ratings are obviously not accurate? Gens Ace 5000mAh 40C & Turnigy Nanotechs.....
Any suggestions of batteries?
Everyone's help is much appreciated.
It's always good to have another fast racer at the track to help with set-ups. We both have the same goal of putting AE on top.
Tech Regular
Joined: Dec 2010
Posts: 289
From: SoCal
Ahhhhh,
Well wouldn't ya know it, this has all come about since I installed the FT shocks without boots
can't believe I didn't think of this.
Thanks for the tips guys, I'll need to compensate the up travel with limiters now that I have no boots.
I'm assuming the limiters clip to the shock shaft under the rubber ring??
Also, since upgrading my ESC motor to the RX8 Pro 4 4000kV, I've killed 2 batteries, melted the bullet socket on the positive termianls.
My C ratings are obviously not accurate? Gens Ace 5000mAh 40C & Turnigy Nanotechs.....
Any suggestions of batteries?
Everyone's help is much appreciated.
Well wouldn't ya know it, this has all come about since I installed the FT shocks without boots
can't believe I didn't think of this. Thanks for the tips guys, I'll need to compensate the up travel with limiters now that I have no boots.
I'm assuming the limiters clip to the shock shaft under the rubber ring??
Also, since upgrading my ESC motor to the RX8 Pro 4 4000kV, I've killed 2 batteries, melted the bullet socket on the positive termianls.
My C ratings are obviously not accurate? Gens Ace 5000mAh 40C & Turnigy Nanotechs.....
Any suggestions of batteries?
Everyone's help is much appreciated.
As for the bullet sockets, you need to get rid of the bird cage style male bullets and use the Castle style bullets. They have much less resistance than the bird cage style. The resistance is is causing the melt down.
Any good lipo rated 50C or better should be fine. I would also suggest using at least 70% current limiting in the RX8 to keep things happy. You won't notice any issues with punch out of the hole but your electronics will run cooler and last longer.
Thanks heaps
Will invest in the Castle connectors, and some new batteries. Maybe it's time to experience the saddle setup.
What size batteries are recommended for the saddle setup, mAh, brand etc? I've never seen a saddle pack before, but I'm loving the good things I've been reading here in regards to the effect the saddle setup has on the truck.
PS: My ball diff arrived today, cheers Marcus, awesome service!!!
Will invest in the Castle connectors, and some new batteries. Maybe it's time to experience the saddle setup.
What size batteries are recommended for the saddle setup, mAh, brand etc? I've never seen a saddle pack before, but I'm loving the good things I've been reading here in regards to the effect the saddle setup has on the truck.
PS: My ball diff arrived today, cheers Marcus, awesome service!!!
Ahhhhh,
Well wouldn't ya know it, this has all come about since I installed the FT shocks without boots
can't believe I didn't think of this.
Thanks for the tips guys, I'll need to compensate the up travel with limiters now that I have no boots.
I'm assuming the limiters clip to the shock shaft under the rubber ring??
Also, since upgrading my ESC motor to the RX8 Pro 4 4000kV, I've killed 2 batteries, melted the bullet socket on the positive termianls.
My C ratings are obviously not accurate? Gens Ace 5000mAh 40C & Turnigy Nanotechs.....
Any suggestions of batteries?
Everyone's help is much appreciated.
Well wouldn't ya know it, this has all come about since I installed the FT shocks without boots
can't believe I didn't think of this. Thanks for the tips guys, I'll need to compensate the up travel with limiters now that I have no boots.
I'm assuming the limiters clip to the shock shaft under the rubber ring??
Also, since upgrading my ESC motor to the RX8 Pro 4 4000kV, I've killed 2 batteries, melted the bullet socket on the positive termianls.
My C ratings are obviously not accurate? Gens Ace 5000mAh 40C & Turnigy Nanotechs.....
Any suggestions of batteries?
Everyone's help is much appreciated.
anyone got any tips to get the diffs to stop leaking?
seems like every 3 races nights after rebuild diff are dry and
upon dissassembly all the oil is in the case and barely in the diff case.
I did try green slime on the orings but it has not helped.
anyone try just running grease should I change diff bearings
because outdrives wobble like crazy....
seems like every 3 races nights after rebuild diff are dry and
upon dissassembly all the oil is in the case and barely in the diff case.
I did try green slime on the orings but it has not helped.
anyone try just running grease should I change diff bearings
because outdrives wobble like crazy....



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