5LikesSC10 4x4 Thread
12-23-2011 | 10:28 PM
The System that comes with the RTR will be perfect until you want to move on.
It's a 4pole Reedy. It's a "good" motor. Used one in my 2x4 for years now and competing.
Oh, and by move on, I really mean to a good ESC with programming. That motor is a kick butt motor.(stats speaking) Maybe not that stupid top speed cushion you guys want, but it will roar.
It's a 4pole Reedy. It's a "good" motor. Used one in my 2x4 for years now and competing.
Oh, and by move on, I really mean to a good ESC with programming. That motor is a kick butt motor.(stats speaking) Maybe not that stupid top speed cushion you guys want, but it will roar.
Last edited by CoyoteSlash; 12-23-2011 at 10:48 PM.
12-23-2011 | 11:07 PM
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 2,477
From: Wallnut, CA
Got mine in today from Tower but gave my wife the satisfaction of wrapping it for me. Not in a rush to build it anyways. I have a MMP and Tekin 5.5, 550 and 4.5 Novak 550 but I think I'm going to hold off my build until after the holidays an install ether a Neu 1509 2d or a 1415 1D. I ran a 2D in my old 4x4 slash and I could gear it to be faster than a compatable Ballistic 4.5 and not break a sweat. The 1D might be overkill.....don't know yet.
But can't wait for the build. Anyone have a link yo the diff shims needed?
But can't wait for the build. Anyone have a link yo the diff shims needed?
12-24-2011 | 01:17 AM
Tech Rookie
Joined: Jul 2011
Posts: 16
pinned or not pinned?
hey guys,new to the sight.love the sc10 4x4.i have a question concerning being pinned or not pinned.been reading about it but dont understand what everyones talking about.also be coupled and decoupled?can anyone explain what they mean by that to a sc10 4x4 rookie,thanks
12-24-2011 | 01:50 AM
Tech Addict
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Sep 2011
Posts: 715
From: Sydney
Hi
Thx for suggestion. Will take out front camber. Already got some toe out :-)
Will try the stiffer fluid up front too!
What about the back end? What spring? I got the spring kit. What camber sh I use at back???
Thx
Thx for suggestion. Will take out front camber. Already got some toe out :-)
Will try the stiffer fluid up front too!
What about the back end? What spring? I got the spring kit. What camber sh I use at back???
Thx
Change your front end alignment to 0 camber and -1* toe in, go with 30k front GREASE (kyosho makes excellent dif grease) and put yellow springs up front. you can also make the front of the truck a mm or so higher than the rear.
On the difs leaking and shimming here is what i have come up with: i came across some Viton "X" rings that are slightly thicker than the stock ones, when i get a chance i will get the specs for them and can offer them on my site if there is enough demand (which seems like there is!!). since there is no stress on the front dif i only use the X rings and removed all of the shims (spider and sun) so the front is very smooth and efficient. i also came across this liquid teflon fluid that is alchohol based so when it dries it leaves a very smooth film i use this on the outdrives and on the brass bushings. On that note, if your outdrives are already wobbling you are not going to be able to make it go away, once the bushings are worn there is no possible way of shimming to make it go away. Buy new housings and shim them from the get go. On the rear i use the same X rings but also install the stock size shims on top of the X ring and also the stock shims for the spider ( although i would like to find extra shims to double up on the spider shims). with these Xrings there is ZERO leakage!! just pulled my difs down a few days ago after a mth and they were both still full!! And we ALL know that never happens! At this time i had 10k mugen fluid in the front and 5k kyosho grease in the rear. i have become a fan of dif grease here lately, to me it is more consistent and more resistent to leaking. Unfortunately i cant find 10k grease in stock so i mixed 15 and 5 together so it should be somewhere around 10
the kyosho grease can be purchased at www.rckenon.com
On the difs leaking and shimming here is what i have come up with: i came across some Viton "X" rings that are slightly thicker than the stock ones, when i get a chance i will get the specs for them and can offer them on my site if there is enough demand (which seems like there is!!). since there is no stress on the front dif i only use the X rings and removed all of the shims (spider and sun) so the front is very smooth and efficient. i also came across this liquid teflon fluid that is alchohol based so when it dries it leaves a very smooth film i use this on the outdrives and on the brass bushings. On that note, if your outdrives are already wobbling you are not going to be able to make it go away, once the bushings are worn there is no possible way of shimming to make it go away. Buy new housings and shim them from the get go. On the rear i use the same X rings but also install the stock size shims on top of the X ring and also the stock shims for the spider ( although i would like to find extra shims to double up on the spider shims). with these Xrings there is ZERO leakage!! just pulled my difs down a few days ago after a mth and they were both still full!! And we ALL know that never happens! At this time i had 10k mugen fluid in the front and 5k kyosho grease in the rear. i have become a fan of dif grease here lately, to me it is more consistent and more resistent to leaking. Unfortunately i cant find 10k grease in stock so i mixed 15 and 5 together so it should be somewhere around 10
the kyosho grease can be purchased at www.rckenon.com
12-24-2011 | 04:12 AM
That's where the problem lies. Associate tried using slipperpads with more surface area (HT pads) but if you wanted to run your slipper loose, it cooked the slipper, glazing the pads, melting the spur, and I seen a slipper spring turn blue. For some reason, they totally seemed to overlook the weight transfer on acceleration.
I came out with a clutch basket that allows you to add an extra slipper pad and disc to drive the rear wheels, and Mantisworx is selling fiberglass pads that don't glaze up like the stock pads.
Pinning the top shaft has been tried by quite a few people, and what it does is tie the two slipper plates back together. It provides the rear with two slipper plates it needs for acceleration, but now the front is tied to the rear, and can't spin at a slower speed when it needs to, like when it turns a corner.
Mantis has a third option, but it's not for sale yet, and besides, I already mentioned him already.
12-24-2011 | 07:20 AM
blue springs,blue bar and -2 on the camber
12-24-2011 | 07:22 AM
For all of those that pre-ordered the center difs for the SC10 4x4, the remainder of the materials showed up yesterday! i should be able to ship out thu/fri of next week. we will make an install video and the kit will come with a drawing to aid in the install although it is pretty straight forward. However there are a few items that you will need to have before install:
Blue loctite
thrust bearing grease (AE black works great)
ball dif grease ( i use Kyosho but any will work)
tweezers
will post more on this later but just want to give everyone the heads up!
Blue loctite
thrust bearing grease (AE black works great)
ball dif grease ( i use Kyosho but any will work)
tweezers
will post more on this later but just want to give everyone the heads up!
12-24-2011 | 08:17 AM
I just shimmed my rear diff using these: http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_...-ball-bearings.
They work perfectly except that you must remove the stock shim otherwise the diff will bind. By themselves the remove almost all of the wobbliness of the out-drives.
They work perfectly except that you must remove the stock shim otherwise the diff will bind. By themselves the remove almost all of the wobbliness of the out-drives.
12-24-2011 | 08:18 AM
Tech Apprentice
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 53
From: Irvine, CA
New years resolution!
This year I'm swapping out my hobbypartz servo and flysky gt3b tx/rx for legit products. I'm already running Tekin pro4 4000kv and rx8 esc.
I'm going to get the airtronics mx-3x. But, what servo should I get??
I'm going to get the airtronics mx-3x. But, what servo should I get??
