SC10 4x4 Thread
question...I am considering the Exotek chassis. I have 2 SC10 4X4's 1 for me and 1 for my son. I have already invested in eight 2S lipo stick packs. Would it be worth it to run the standard battery setup with the exotek chassis or is it that much better running the saddle pack set up? I run on a med/low traction track. We just club race, not really a big deal. Just wondering.
Thanks
Thanks
There is absolutely nothing wrong with running the Stick packs.
Saddles do allow for more balance adjustment but your eight packs with the standard array of Performance increase parts (exotek included) are sufficient for any podium club racer.
Saddles do allow for more balance adjustment but your eight packs with the standard array of Performance increase parts (exotek included) are sufficient for any podium club racer.
2 more questions...
Are most people building the shocks with bladders or emulsion style? and why?
2nd. Does anyone have a how to on the saddle conversion. I bought all of the stuff, but need to know how to do it before getting started with the build.
Thanks
Are most people building the shocks with bladders or emulsion style? and why?
2nd. Does anyone have a how to on the saddle conversion. I bought all of the stuff, but need to know how to do it before getting started with the build.
Thanks
There is a guide or two in this thread for your saddle pack.
I recently purchased the blue aluminum hex nut for my 4x4. Before it got worse or damaged to the point of no return, my wheel hex nut side was almost meshed. I was able to run the original plastic black hex nut and save the old wheels.
Now, I recently purchased hazard wheels and im afraid to use my aluminum hex nut. its seems like the original hex nut are more durable. Any ideas? Has anyone had same issue?
Now, I recently purchased hazard wheels and im afraid to use my aluminum hex nut. its seems like the original hex nut are more durable. Any ideas? Has anyone had same issue?
Last edited by IRM616; 12-20-2011 at 03:02 AM.
Looking for saddle lipos. Is this the right size?
Option one
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&P=7&I=LXASTT
Option two/ or can I buy two of these
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXASTU&P=7
Option one
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...1&P=7&I=LXASTT
Option two/ or can I buy two of these
http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXASTU&P=7
Dude, you seem like a nice kid. But your capricious nature is irritating. Not only to "the noobs", trying to find ever diluting information among 800 pages of off and on drama. But also to guys like me who remember the first page of this thread and all the helpful, logical discussion it brought.
Please, see if we can't get back to that.
Please, see if we can't get back to that.
Dude, you seem like a nice kid. But your capricious nature is irritating. Not only to "the noobs", trying to find ever diluting information among 800 pages of off and on drama. But also to guys like me who remember the first page of this thread and all the helpful, logical discussion it brought.
Please, see if we can't get back to that.
Please, see if we can't get back to that.
question...I am considering the Exotek chassis. I have 2 SC10 4X4's 1 for me and 1 for my son. I have already invested in eight 2S lipo stick packs. Would it be worth it to run the standard battery setup with the exotek chassis or is it that much better running the saddle pack set up? I run on a med/low traction track. We just club race, not really a big deal. Just wondering.
Thanks
Thanks
I am a fan of inline saddles but, it is not a necessary mod. Stick packs will be more than adequate, especially on a club level.
Tech Adept
iTrader: (14)
Joined: Nov 2011
Posts: 198
From: Titusville Florida
so, i bought this truck used from a friend i race with, and since i got it i have put a mmp in it, a x12l lrp motor, new belt, stiffer sways, team orion servo, bec, all the bells n whistles, bt my question is this, and please dont think me dumb b/c prior all i ran was 48p pinion/spur.. is a 32p pinion/spur supposed to b very loud> i mean my 48p setups are nearly silent, however this 32p is extremely loud...
Tech Master
iTrader: (38)
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,776
Lemme start by saying I HAVE searched, and older posts and conflicting opinions still have me confused. It's about the Castle SCT 1410 combo. Looks like some people have run the Sidewinder and been fine, some run a cooling fan, some mount on the rear shock tower and cut holes in the body for cooling. I could run it, or put it in my 2wd SC10. I have two options for the 4x4, I can run the Castle 1410 with a Tekin RS Pro that I own, or just purchase a MMP and run that. What is my best plan of attack here? Will the RS Pro be ok with the 1410?
Tech Master
iTrader: (21)
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 1,345
Lemme start by saying I HAVE searched, and older posts and conflicting opinions still have me confused. It's about the Castle SCT 1410 combo. Looks like some people have run the Sidewinder and been fine, some run a cooling fan, some mount on the rear shock tower and cut holes in the body for cooling. I could run it, or put it in my 2wd SC10. I have two options for the 4x4, I can run the Castle 1410 with a Tekin RS Pro that I own, or just purchase a MMP and run that. What is my best plan of attack here? Will the RS Pro be ok with the 1410?
I would imagine the rs pro would be just fine. But gear it low, watch temps and test it out. If it runs cool and is fast enough then you just saved yourself some $$.
Hey guys, need some setup advice. I need alot more traction. My truck is loose coming out of corners like it is over rotating and also on sweeping turns my truck wants to spin out. It feels like I have to drive this truck like a 2wd buggy right know.
I also think it could be my chassis brace. Does taking away some of the flex have an effect on the traction or handling of the vehicle?
I also think it could be my chassis brace. Does taking away some of the flex have an effect on the traction or handling of the vehicle?



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