Ok question how common is it for a pin to break in the sensor board in the motor? I have a new motor I had mocked up in a Tekno ET48.3 build upon finishing stuff up I went to unhook the sensor wire and a pin from the motor just broke off and pulled off with the sensor wire. I am literally in shock this motor doesn't have 1min of movement on it. How common is this? Is Tekin pretty good about taken care of stuff on support side?

I have literally never heard of that happening locally in 8+ years. Definitely send an email with some pictures and I'm willing to bet they will take care of you 100%.

I've seen everything but that is not common at all. Send us pictures: [email protected]

Based on all I've read, I'm thinking the 1900 is the "go-to"...except that, what people forget to indicate when they're mentioning this is that this is ONLY true when running 4S (or higher) batteries. Most (if not all) indoor tracks don't allow anything larger than 3S...and, in most cases, only 2S. For anything less than 4S, the motor needs to be faster. As such, in the case of 2S batteries (which is all that's allowed under ROAR rules), the motor needs to be approx 4000kV. It's these "little", but HIGHLY important, details that make a huge difference.

You might be only running outdoors, thus 4S is allowed, but there ARE LOTS of people running only INDOORS, and, for them, 2S is the maximum allowed. Why is it that, in almost all replies related to batteries, motors, Eri, people seem to want to assume that everyone else is either bashing, but not racing? Or racing in outside tracks only, but not inside tracks?

RC isn't a "one size fits all" activity, any more than cycling, skiing, it any other sport/activity. It's just like, in a thread I created elsewhere in these forums, where I was asking about the best recommended ESC/motor combos for a specific vehicle. In the thread, I very clearly indicated that the vehicle was to be for race ONLY, and that the primary track is an indoor track. I say clearly indicated that ONLY 2S is allowed. Yet, for some unknown/strange reason, almost all replies providing suggestions were such that, the motors...or, to be more accurate, the kV of the motors...suggested would have all been great IF it was an outdoor track, and IF the vehicle were running 4S. Yet, again, it was clearly indicated in the initial post that it was an indoor track, and 2S is so that's allowed.

I'm sorry if it seems like I'm "ranting"...I'm not trying to. But, the point is, there ARE different types of RCers - racers, bashers, recreational users (drug pun not intended), etc. Likewise, there are those who run indoor only, and outdoor only. There are also those who run vehicles in a specific environment - clay, dirt, sand, even snow. Every variation has speed-demon needs/requirements, and, when someone creates a thread, and specifies those requirements, posting replies that don't correlate to the specific needs of the OP don't help anyone....not the OP, not anyone participating in the same thread who needs the same info. The End.

why would anyone run 1/8th scale on less then 4s? it's ridiculous.

Do you not bother reading? Indoor track ONLY allow 2S. This is for safety reasons, probably due to the size of the building, as well as the businesses (automotive) that occupy the other 3/4 of the building. I don't make the rules...BUT EVERYONE who raced there IS required to comply with them.

I realize that 1900kV motor, running on 3-4S, is the "standard"...but, unfortunately for me, and everyone else who goes to this particular track, the "standard" does not fit in with the rules they have set. This also means racers who go there need two motors (approx 4000kV for that track, & others like it, and 1900kV for "standard" tracks), as well as two sets of batteries (2S for that, & similar, tracks, and 4S for "standard" tracks). I agree it's ridiculous, but it is what it is.

First, you've making it sound as if I'm trying to cause problems...I'm not in trying to provide some helpful information, so that those replying to others can actually provide helpful/useful solutions.

100% true. At the same time, someone did ask about a motor, for a specific vehicle, probably to be paired with the RX8. All I was doing was providing one possible answer to the question asked. In my current Rustler 4x4, I'm running an RX8 w/ a Pro4 3300kV.

Additionally...and the primary reason I joined this particular thread... was planning on using the an RX8 in the other three vehicles I'm building, and I was hoping to find useful info as to which motor(s) to pair up with each of those ESCs - one of which happens to be a 1/8 E-Buggy, which will be running on the previously-mentioned track. In other words, it is still related.

On an entirely separate, yet related, note, in an "ideal world", there'd be a separate thread for every possible situation. However, just as an "ideal world" is unrealistic, so is the idea of all those individual threads. As such, sometimes, there is bound to be crossover. I've seen such happen countless times, in other threads on this forum, as well as on other forums. ESCs & motors are related, and, as such, those in here shouldn't have any problem if an inquiry about one leads to inquiries about the other.

RCing is supposed to be a "friendly" sport/activity. If everyone worked together to actually help one-another, instead of putting others down, more would get accomplished. I'm NOT saying your reply was putting me down (obviously, it wasn't), but there are plenty of others who seem intent on putting others down. This has been noted elsewhere in this forum. It has also been noted in other forums, about this forum, which is why numerous people have left the RC Tech forums.

From a safety stand point 1/8th scales need 4s minimum. If a track disagrees with that then they shouldn't bother with 1/8. You should tell them that.

Be my guest. Nor-Cal Hobbies, San Jose, CA. It's one of only 13 ROAR-approved tracks in California, and one of 4 in the greater SF Bay Area.