I'm with Randy, my BE in my stock buggy is little compaired to my RSX in the mod stuff.

I meant much bigger than my r1 or HW 13.5 spec esc. Mounting the switch and trying to keep it out of the driveline was a little bit of a pain. The esc ran fine though. I might end up getting another one though for 2wd spec racing. I really did like the feel of the BE. Probably sold it too quick.

On the BE does throttle frequency give you more feel throughout the stroke? I feel nothing between full and maybe quarter throttle....

You running the spec-r 17.5?

Increase your minimum throttle to about 10-15, make sure your torque is off(10). You can also lower your drive frequency down. I'd make these adjustments in the order I listed them.

Professor Pike, in a spec blinky 10.5 class, (Mini truggy; TEKNO ET410) do you recommend running 2 capacitors? Why? I see some different ones also available. Stock in RSX box is either

330uf 16V or 180uf 16v.

then there's 1000-2700uf 16v al the way to 27uf 25v OR 1500uf 35v

Any pictures of the new Tekin RSX Pro?

Installed the RSX in my B5M and it flies. I put an 8.0 motor in it and was having problems with the RS. I know it is only rated to 8.5, so RSX replaces it. I think the battery could also be a suspect in this one as well and I changed it. Find out tomorrow at the track. Now I have RSX in all my 10th scale vehicles. This way I can upgrade the power anytime I want.

RSX Pro....hmmm I am interested

How many people throw that Tekin RSX capacitor as far as they can? Those things have caused me a ton of problems. Tekin needs to get rid of it and supply something with longer wires so it can be moved somewhere else. I have destroyed one RSX because of it and had a rough night today. I happened to have a Sanwa capacitor lying around with longer wires, and put it out of the way. Brilliant, isn't it.

I just solder wires on mine. It is a hassle but not a big deal

i have never had or seen a issue with the capacitor. Mounted off the back of the esc posts its a clean install out of the way. I can't think of a way to have issues with their design unless its not installed right.

The cap itself is high quality, but it is a pain to mount. You want as little wire between the capacitor and battery posts as possible, so you can add a bit of wire to put it on the side of the esc. Just keep it to 1 inch of wire or less if possible.

They break off easily, and then shorten the esc out. Just imagine what that does to your esc and motor. There should be no bare wires that can cause this problem.