Thanks you for your answer, any idea if the support have shipped the fan to me? I had no new from them.

I already told you one was dispatched. No reason for support to contact you further.

[QUOTE=Team Pink;13241837]Saw your post on this thread and the B5M thread as well. Here is the RSX all wired up in my B5M.


Thanks! Looks good! Your layout is what i had in mind!

Is the capacitor that came with my rsx required? I'm running my rsx with my 5.5 gen2 In a 22-4. If it is required will the schuur speed dual capicator work or do I need to use the Tekin capicator?

Yes the cap is required and I would only run the Tekin cap.

I ran my RSX in my Yokomo 4wd all weekend with a ramped 8.5 against other 5.5 and 6.5 motors and wasnt down on power on the straight and was smooth on the infield and never saw more than 2 lights all weekend during racing. I hit 3 lights once during a long practice session. I feel that some people may have a heavier throttle finger than others therefore the same settings offer different results. I have a 17.5 throttle finger as I'm new to 4wd mod. Use others settings as a starting point and adjust yo your driving style.

True, im pretty hard on throttle, our track is medium with allot of 180 and stretch, I am pretty sure when the fan will be on my RSX I wont have temp problem anymore.

You'd be surprised how cool it all runs. I was running my new 22-4 with a 6.5 all weekend without a fan and only seeing 4 led's once i dumped the pack. Considering there's NO airflow in the stock 22-4 body I'd say that's more than fine.

People that race with me often know I will not be pulled down the straight away ;)

I always suggest running it without the fan for however long your mains are, full race pace. Pull it and check the led's showing temp. If you're 4 led's or lower, no fan required.

Randy, I have been running my rsx with a fan since buying it. Will I see any significant improvement if I took it off? I run indoors and outdoors with my 22-4 on a 6.5 gen2 tekin.

I still do not understand why my temps gun was getting a temps of 147 on the heat sink, maybe my gun is not well calibrate. Thanks you for your help Randy.

I've Been running an rs pro in my 22-4 with a gen2 6.5 and speedo temps were only about 160 f just picked up the rsx and can't wait to get this installed

I'm not sure you'll see any "improvement" per se but I see no reason to add the weight to the car if it's not needed. The heatsink design is very effective at dissipating heat on it's own. If there's even the smallest amount of airflow across those fins it's pretty amazing how cool the unit can run.

147 on the outside of the esc still isn't a temperature I'd worry about in the slightest to be honest.

[QUOTE=Randy_Pike;13246797]People that race with me often know I will not be pulled down the straight away ;)QUOTE]


That's my line:lol::lol::lol:

What's your opinion on my question above about the capacitor? Thanks

Yes the capacitor is required. Tekin suggest 2 capacitor, the first one is 16V 330uf (TT3520) and the second one is 16V 1000uf (TT3522). I currently use the 330uf with no problems.

Always run a cap, always.

Thanks

Thanks

Lipo cutoff
 

Hello All,
I recently dropped the rsx into my DEX410 and I have a problem. I am hitting lipo cutoff in about 5 mins and when I throw the lipo back on the charger its at 7.6 volts. Here is the setup:

RSX
TrakPower 6000mah 90c saddle pack
4.5 Trinity D3 EPA at 75%
19/87 gearing

Temps are good, motor at 160 and speedo at 110. Battery charges and balances fine. I checked the hotwire settings, its at 2s cutoff. There is definitely something going on, there is no reason for it to hit cutoff at 5min and 7.6V. Makes no sense to me, any ideas?

Next time when it cut off just turn off the car and wait few min. Turn it back on and go run it again to see how long it will run before it cut off again. If it cut off very soon I will swap a different battery to see any change in run time, if the cut off time is longer mean you have different problem but not the battery.

So, the internal temp sensor for the esc is cool... the LEDs lighting up is much quicker than digging for the temp gun...

But I've got a question (or 2) about the data logging.

1: when does it start/stop recording?
2: has anyone been checking the motor temps using it??? Is there a way to recalibrate the motor temp sensor? Or do not all motors have an internal temp sensor???

The reason I ask is that I'm pretty sure I cooked my motor... and I hooked up the data hotwire and took a look at the data it had logged...

It only logged 3 runs, for a total of about 6 minutes worth of driving.

-I temped my motor with a duratrax flash point, and it said 180... and the esc said 112.(and I had just 1 light.

I took a photo of my Laptop screen(sorry, out in the garage I don't have wifi, just 4g for the cell.)

This is what the data loggershowed me:
http://i1219.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5dqrplzl.jpg


The other question that was raised by looking at my data logger.....

-why is it only showing that I hit 75% for the throttle?

Am I doing something wrong here??

Welp... I called the office.

I had the pleasure of talking with Michael.

Thanks for the help in understanding.

So, from what I understood he was telling me is that:

-The RSX starts to record as soon as you start your drive~
-it has enough memory(depending on how many of the items you choose to record, and at what resolution.) anywhere from 4 to 8 minutes worth of data.
-Throttle hitting 75% isn't 'abnormal' it depends more on the radio MFG and how their system is read by the data logger.
-my motor temp in the data recorded didn't show up as hot because it wasn't far enough into the run to actually get hot at that point. (because my first run was on my bench, the second one was in my garage just setting trims and getting set up.


If I am going to use this data logging feature, I think that it would be a huge advantage to be able to use it on my android device.

Thanks again for your time and help Michael.

I'm just now playing with the data logging, after have a few electronic hiccups that I couldn't figure out.. nor the people whom tried helping me could either.

However, one suggested it might be Battery Brown out due to a Bad Cell that drops Voltage when Amp demand is too much for it.

Problem: car races fine, then at some point during the I pull Full Throttle (ex.. coming out of turn) & the throttle sputters(dies then kinda works, dies, repeat). And then car has to sit dead for a few seconds before any throttle comes back.. etc...

I think the attached screen shot crop the "WHY" to my problem.
My Current Limiter was set to 85... So at about the 3min mark, if my Throttle exceeded ~80, the Voltage would drop ~6.2V - 5.9V, and ESC cutoff for 2S = 6.4V... So, one of the cells in my Saddle Pack cannot handle the Amp draw.
It happened to be an older 4200mAh 30C pack.. So, I'm currently testing my packs for Voltage Drops on discharge.

Have I read the data right?

Yesterday my car (XB4) ran fine in practice and when tried to power it up for the 1st qual I had steering, but lost the throttle. lights 1,2, & 6 lit up flashing so I rebound, recalibrated and tried a few different hotwire settings with no luck and was done for the day. Today I looked things over clipped the motor wires and powered up the ESC with no motor attached, things appeared to be good (led centered and moved with throttle/brake movements) however it didn't beep or make any noise as it usually does on power up. I'm stumped if I have a Motor or ESC issue at this point, should I solder things back up and see what happens? I also have a brand new 1700kv truggy motor I could use to rule out the motor, but hate to solder it up just to test things. I'll try Tekin Customer support tomorrow to see if they want me to send it in or can point me in the right direction.

In the mean time any advice or suggestions are welcomed

Thanks,

From my understanding; The ESC doesn't beep. It uses the motor to make the tones.

That makes sense then why I didn't hear anything then, hopefully the ESC is still fine and maybe I just had a bad solder joint??? I'll probably rewire/solder it up again and see if it works today. Hopefully I won't need to contact Tekin tomorrow....:cry:

Waa running vegas 248 it lost binding for no reason , went into spec mode 1s , my buds been running older hotwire software and couldnt be fixed, got home put vegas 250 on it and got it out of spec mode seems fine now but yet to race again yet(fingers crossed)

I am running a Reedy Mach 2 17.5 with the RSX, does not seem to work right with the data logger for motor temp. Anyone know if the Reedy Mach 2 is suppose to work with it and if I am maybe do something wrong

If you attended the RCX show you'd have seen this in person ;)

You're dropping well below a typical 6v 2s lipo cut off range. So yes if your LVC is on, it's going to cut throttle.

You're also likely on the right track. A 30c pack isn't going to handle today's 4wd buggies with low turn mod motors. Especially one that is only 4200mah. Figure you'll get about 3-4 minute of full power before it starts going flat in an IDEAL condition.

Time for some new packs ;)

Yes you can use ANY known good BL motor to test the 12 67 fault. This is essentially the esc telling you that it only sees 2 of the 3 phases of a brushless motor. Either due to a bad/blown motor phase, shorted motor phase, bad motor wires, or possibly bad esc.

The "chime" comes from the esc "pinging" the motor. So no motor, no chime.

Not all motors have the sensors installed. So if you see a flat line or some odd reading that never changes, this is the cause.

Thanks Randy!
I was thinking that was the case.. I really like my Tekin gen2 17.5 but I can't get the speed and tempatures to work out in the B5M. Im Thinking the Reedy's larger holes on the can let it run cooler in the MM. Tried venting the body but I am pushing 170 or a little over temping the can after five minutes. I played it safe on gearing and timing as well, safe enough i was under powered compared to the rest. Rear motor it will run all day with no heat issue, and I have the speed to run with the rest. Bigger vents on the can I think is what the Tekin may need. The gearing I was using was 69/31 under 20 degrees of timing in the motor, blinky mode.

170 is not bad at all. Venting the front of the body is a good thing to get some more air to a MM setup.

Thanks, Randy!!

I do have newer 5100mAh 65C packs that work well. I just hate retiring gear, makes me sad. But, new stuff makes me happy, too! Lol

I really just wanted to know that I was reading the data log properly! I love it! Such a great a useful tool for testing different setups & seeing what your equipment is actually doing during a race!

I was at 170, but was under powered compared to the rest of the field. I was under the impression 170 external can temp was about the max suggested for the motor. To be competitive I needed to add a little more and did not want to push the temp much further. What is a safe tempature? I would like to keep the Tekin motor in there. running 17.5 Blinky with a B5m 69/31

Try dropping a tooth and going to 71/30, can timing at 25. 170 after a full race "pull" is fine. But I think trying my changes may help get you the power you're looking for without creating more heat.

Use the data logger. I've been finding so many guys overgeared trying to get speed that they're bogging the whole car down....I know it can sound crazy at first but the acceleration "curve" with the super tall gearing is a goof up. REALLY review that data log How to we posted. http://www.teamtekin.com/datalogging.html

Mid motor cars also have more drag and drivetrain wrap to push with the 2nd gear and all the weight....

Rp

Okay, I will try it out. Going to do some testing Monday, after some data logging study time.

Tekin RSX
 

Has anybody had any good experience with this ESC. I just received this esc and hoping its good.

Larry, I've been running one in my 410 for a couple months now. It has been flawless. See me next Weds. Down RCHR if you have any questions.