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Thats all it needed. Update software.
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Originally Posted by akshayp14
(Post 13233271)
i would also love an explanation as to how escs (in general) just catch alight, without any visible short
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Originally Posted by bryan200524
(Post 13233048)
Second time I hooked my rx8 up and it caught on fire, only thing that was changed is that I hooked up a new servo it's a hitec 8380, would that contribute to it catching on fire or was it just a rare occurrence?
What car? Battery? Battery Connectors? Radio System? How old was the unit? Gen1 or Gen2? |
Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 13238263)
In my case I think something got broken loose and caused an internal short somewhere. Had the neg wire come off due to a cold solder join, but it was shrink wrapped and didn't cause fire or melting or anything at the time, then I rewired the whole thing and it caught fire the next time I plugged it up. So was somewhere between the PNB abuse that caused the wire to get loose and re-soldering that it got wrong.
It is possible that the post got hot enough to melt the solder because of the shrink wrap. Possible, not absolute, but your next ESC don't shrink wrap the posts. |
Thanks to Ty and Jeremy for helping me out and keeping me running at the ROAR Nats. These are the reasons why i choose Tekin. And thanks to Ty for the fun battle in truggy.
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Originally Posted by fq06
(Post 13238375)
It may or may not have been a cold solder that took the negative wire off. Those posts act as heat sinks so when you shrink wrap them you are retaining heat.
It is possible that the post got hot enough to melt the solder because of the shrink wrap. Possible, not absolute, but your next ESC don't shrink wrap the posts. I follow the best practice now and don't use any tube on the ESC posts, but not sure if I completely agree/understand why that is the case. Best I've heard i so you can see if you have any problems with the joints. I would still feel better if they were covered since you never know when you might kick up a nail or something and have it get in and bridge the connectors. Plus if you do get a bad joint and a battery lead comes loose, your pretty much guaranteed to have it flop over and short out, where the tube would either help hold the wire in place, or at least protect the exposed wire. |
Originally Posted by Mizchief
(Post 13238560)
I doubt that would have caused it. It's a 4s system and normally stays cool. Connectors shouldn't get hot enough for heat shrink to be a factor unless there is something else already wrong. Plus i've run RX8's that way for years and didn't have a problemI thought that I may have gotten the posts too hot and caused solder to flow inside the case, but don't think there was actually enough solder to flow that far on the board, and if that was the case the posts would have probably came off the board.
I follow the best practice now and don't use any tube on the ESC posts, but not sure if I completely agree/understand why that is the case. Best I've heard i so you can see if you have any problems with the joints. I would still feel better if they were covered since you never know when you might kick up a nail or something and have it get in and bridge the connectors. Plus if you do get a bad joint and a battery lead comes loose, your pretty much guaranteed to have it flop over and short out, where the tube would either help hold the wire in place, or at least protect the exposed wire. i only use heat shrink on the battery solder posts |
I'm not a fan of shrink on the posts ONLY because you can't inspect the connection. Honestly if it's done well it shouldn't be an issue.
Each failure needs to be looked at on it's own. Posts pulling off the board is most often caused by wires that are too short or poor solder joints. If you had a failure we generally like to know this info: Motor Gearing Car Battery(exact type) Servo(exact) Radio system Battery connectors if any Software used That's generally most of it but sometimes we ask for more details. |
Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 13238610)
I'm not a fan of shrink on the posts ONLY because you can't inspect the connection. Honestly if it's done well it shouldn't be an issue.
Each failure needs to be looked at on it's own. Posts pulling off the board is most often caused by wires that are too short or poor solder joints. If you had a failure we generally like to know this info: Motor Gearing Car Battery(exact type) Servo(exact) Radio system Battery connectors if any Software used That's generally most of it but sometimes we ask for more details. |
Randy, I have a older X ray 808E that I am racing with a 2050 and a gen2 rx8. The buggy has 4:30 diffs and a 42 spur . I am thinking I need to be around a 19t pinon , sound about right ?
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Originally Posted by wittyname
(Post 13238714)
Randy, I have a older X ray 808E that I am racing with a 2050 and a gen2 rx8. The buggy has 4:30 diffs and a 42 spur . I am thinking I need to be around a 19t pinon , sound about right ?
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Originally Posted by Randy_Pike
(Post 13238750)
Yup good place to start.
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hey guys, do I need to have the hotwire 2.0 for the newest update (v10.2)to work? I downloaded and installed the v10.2 on my laptop but when I connected my ESC last night it didn't prompt me for any updates or anything and it still said I was using the old version I had before. I re-downloaded it and installed again and tried a second time. What am I missing? It should ask if I want to go to Vegas 250, right?
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Click the advanced settings tab on the right and then choose 250 update.
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Originally Posted by fq06
(Post 13241152)
Click the advanced settings tab on the right and then choose 250 update.
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