guys i know somebody has this problem before. but i just can find it on this forum. here it goes.

i got a JR R-1 RADIO with SPEKTRUM and also the spektrum reciever.
i got a servo, ko propo 2343
my speedo is a lrp quantum 2
i have a capacitor on my reciever

my problem is i just test it right now and everytime i turn my steering wheel on my radio , my receiver loose signal. and it glitches. any thing wrong?

my battery is not peak. just for an additional info.

This is a know issue, the Q2 and Spektrum RX, the Q2 does not put out enough voltage for the RX, you need to run a cap on the RX.

Here is the link: http://www.spektrumrc.com/Products/D...ProdID=SPM1600

thanx vboltz

i do have the 3300uf on my rx.but still doing that .does it matter how much voltage you have in your battery. i know my battery is already dying but i dont expect my reciever to loose signal during the last lap. any help is still helpful

Boy I'm not sure.... I would try a charged up battery and if this works fine, then it may be the issue, your current battery is to low on the voltage.

thanx a lot. its spektum is pretty nice though.

I think the Tekin G-11pro has the same issue as the Q2 with high drawing servos. I run the capacitor on my RX, but sometimes on the last lap it just completly looses signal like your describing. Basically if you dump, your screwd. The signal normally pulses on and off, holding the last signal untill it comes back. (normally 1 sec no signal, 1 sec signal, pulsing on and off)
Just gear to make sure you don't dump.

ohhh that sucks. anything else you do just to avoid or nurse that situation? i race stock motor

I run 12t mod

Havn't found anything yet, but my batteries seem to be able to handle most gear ratios I throw at them, and it hasn't really been a problem.
Another problem I found though, is coming into some corners at a high speed, the load on the steering is obviously quite large, and causes the servo to draw more power to hold it at full lock, causing the car to double steer, I don't think there is any easy solution to this either.

But I am planning to change servo from my KO 2343 to something else, this should solve these problems.

If you look back (maybe search for regulator or voltage) there's a schematic for a little voltage regulator which may also be of help. . .

Essentially, that's what we're using the capacitor for - it dampens the voltage dip that comes from the esc when something drains it. It works, but it isn't a full regulator - which the ESC's are supposed to have. . .

Running a mamba max a few days ago and I ran it a little longer then I should (till it was flat, was testing her out) but anyway on acceleration the personal transponder light was going out due to low voltage yet the spectrum RX never missed a beat.

pinggoy & coons88 - Just feed your servo power from your battery pack. You will need a diode or two (depending on the voltage you want to supply the servo) and a capacitior (to take out the voltage pulses from the motor) but then only your RX and personal transponder is feeding on your ESC supply. Each doide drops voltage by about 0.6V, so if you have 7.2V pack run two diodes to get 6v. I am just using one diode on a S3003, have not bothered putting the KO in yet - im waiting for the S3003 to die and on the higher voltage the speed and torque is enough to do the job :).

Yea that is what I planned to do, but problem is, as the battery voltage lowers during the run, the diodes will take the voltage down to like 5v, then you have the same problem. For the mean time I am happy with my setup until I replace my servo with one that draws less. (Someone else with the exact same setup as me, but a s9451 servo has no issues with power, and doesn't have to use the cap, and his servo works with my setup, so I know replacing the servo will work.

No you won't have the same problem because the servo is not getting its power from the ESC so it will not effect the spektrum RX supply with high current draws. If your battery is that flat A servo connected to the battery is effecting your ESC supply to the RX you won't have to worry about the motor doing too much :).

No I mean, say the diodes take the voltage down from the battery to the servo by 1v. So at the start of your run, the battery will be at say 9.5v, servo will have 8.5v. As the battery drains through the run, so does the power to the servo obviously, but that isn't a problem. But when the battery gets lower than 7v, then the power to the servo will be lower than 6v, and you have the same problem with the servo not having enough power.
If I was going to run it straight off the battery I wouldn't use the diodes, as I have been told that they have no issues running on up to 9-10v, and I have tried powering the servo straight off a fully charged battery and there are nor problems at all, the servo handled it fine. But when I then tried the capacitor, and saw that worked too, I decided to use the capacitor instead as it was easier, and less of a risk than running the servo on 9v.

Ah ok, I thought you where still having RX probems. :)

Credit goes to bvoltz on this. I read your post and a few days later it struck me . . . "why not just use my post hole reamer to enlarge the spektrum top case antenna hole bit by bit *READ--> CAREFULLY*until the antenna tube can be forced snugly into the top of the case and have the antenna exit through the top into the tube?" I didn't stop there though. I really wanted the entire antenna under the body with a clean look that would keep the antenna safe. So I cut my antenna to 3.6" exactly from the board. Then I measured the amount of antenna tube I would need to cover the antenna from the case to the end of the antenna. Once measured and cut I ran several inches of solder through the antenna (any string will do, I just had solder in front of me) and started twisting it while curving the antenna until I had a radiused 90* curve in my antenna that would let it sit below my body (I did this for an RDX with a stratus carpet body). While in the curved position I heated the antenna tube with my wifes haoir dryer for a minute or so and then walked over to the freezer, grabbed a piece of ice, and ran it along the antenna to get it to stay in the bent position. I took the string out, ran the tube over the antenna and pressed it firmly down into the case and then put one of those tube end plugs on the end. Now I no longer have to wiggle my antenna out of my body after each race!! I dont have a camera or I'd post pics. No problem with range though using a futaba 9550, a sphere comp, a 4300, a pt and the big LRP worlds cap plugged into the reciever.