Darn. So 2.0 or 2.1 pro stock?

I would try the following and bench test after each change:

Check the sensor wire connections
Swap with a known good sensor wire
Check all of your solder joints - ESC, motor, and battery
Swap in a known good motor
Check your receiver wire connections
Swap with a known good receiver wire
Open receiver and clean out any accumulated dirt
Try an alternate Rx if possible
Try an alternate ESC if possible

If it is still acting up you're pretty safe to assume it is the lpf. Give SP a shout to send it in for service.

are the dual rates turned off when your calibrating or have you messed with the pitch curvers thru the radio at all after calibrating the first time.

Dual rates are not anything I've ever messed with. They are all set at zero. The negative wire leading to the capacitor while it was not off was nearly so. I will take everything out of the car and give it a cleaning. Hopefully this will be all that is needed.
Thank you.

quick report on yesterday's races using GT2.0 For SCT 2wd, 2wd ST, and SCT 4x4.

using the LPF in the SCT 2wd, the Pro's in ST, and SCT 4x4.

both 2wd using Novak 10.5s and the SCT 4x4 using a 550 Tekin SCX 5.5.

I started with the setup I saw for the SCT-E 4x4 using the novak 550 ballistic 5.5 I believe as I figured it would be a bit more conservative. I also combined this with the recommended settings in the 323 stock software guide for I believe an 11.5 for offroad turned down slightly since the novaks start with there 30 degree timing thing.

On the tight track here, I found that I needed basically to turn all the boost off for the 4x4 to get the temps down into a reasonable range. As the track had a lot of 180s, I found that I had too much power and was jamming the brakes too much heating stuff up. The actual speed of the vehicle was sufficient so I wasn't at the high end of the throttle range all the time or too low.

The SP GT2.0 Pro performed flawlessly in my SC10 4x4. Very impressed.

It also did the same on the T4.1 , wheels on command, almost too much power.

the SC10 felt a bit down on power with the LPF, and I needed to adjust the gearing more, probably part of the issue.

All in all, the Speed passion stuff was excellent. May just pickup a pro version for the SC10 too. :nod:

is the lpf speedo les powerful as the pro ?

The lpf is only a 440a max output versus 800a max for the pro. the pro has a 3.5 turn limit while the lpf is a 5.5 limit. i have ran a 3 turn on the pro though.

but i mean say you wil use a 7.5t motor with both speedos.
same programing and all.wil the performance be the same.

the pro will perform better but with the right gearing and settings on the lpf you would never know the difference.

Just started having a problem with my lpf in my b4.1. Running a 7.5 geared at 22/81. No timing at all, tried running 528 mod software and the newer version (still no boost at all). The speed control is coming off the track at 200+ degrees? Motor temps at 125-130 after a 5 minute heat. Car has good power and runs with the other guys with similar motor and gearing. Drag brake is set to 12% and I hardly ever use the trigger brake.

Suggestions?

are you running a fan or capacitor?

Definitely have the stock cap, but no room for a fan. This seems to be something that just changed as I've ran 8.5's and 9.5's without it getting nearly that hot. Now even with an 8.5, it's coming off over 200*.

take a look at the caps and make sure none of them are swelling. also give the esc a good cleaning with a brush over the heatsinks.

The wire from the LPF to the receiver was frayed where it goes under the battery. I am hoping this was the problem. Thank you for the help.

Gear up, the ESC is generating too much switching heat, and probably best to stick with 205 firmware. Take a look at the 2wd offroad set up sheets on the SP site for reference, guys are geared much higher, in the 27 tooth range for your buggy and spur. Maybe don't go as high as they are all at once, as these are good drivers that carry a lot of corner speed.

SP Team Setups