buy another brand motor or wqait for the update motor. the esc is fine. ive been using it with a trinity d8 motor and like it alot. The 2200kv sp motor end bell screws always come loose, even with loctite. but if you add a few more screws around it will not come apart like they all do but heat is another issue when being ran in a 1/8 buggy. too small of a motor for it's application. i've personally seen these issues and witnessed 3 others with the same issues. for the price of the combo tho, you can't complain too much

I'm thinking of just buying a Tekin 1900 to match with the esc.

I run SP GT2 LPF's in my 1/10 SC, 2wd buggy, and 4wd buggy. I love the smooth power delivery and easy programming. I have one issue however. If I come in hard into a sharp corner and try to use the brakes to bring the end around, the esc will occasionally stop and I have to wait just a moment for it to give power again. It is almost like some sort of time delay is taking effect. Can I program this out of the esc?

Thanks

I'm using Epic Duo 3 motors and promatch batteries.

You did not even try it and assumed it is crap..? Why would you say that..? :confused:

You are talking about a motor that released 1.5 year plus....something will replace that sooner or later. But that does not mean it is a bad motor to use. Try it on your buggy and tell us what you think.

It sounds like a SENSOR wiring problem, check the sensor wire and the motor sensor board both, you are running in sensorless mode and thats why there is the delay there.

I didn't mean to offend you. I was simply wondering if it was outdated, would be low on power, overheat, or be unreliable compared to the newer motors. I was saying I would buy a Tekin if this one wasn't up to par. I'm not badmouthing it. Shoot it was dirt cheap at only $40 more than the esc by itself. That's why I figured
I would give it a try.

I had a similar issue with mine and it turned out to be my servo was bad and it would sometimes shut down the esc for a second or two.
Just something to check.

Sp Gt2 with Tekin 10.5
 

I'm using sp gt2 pro combo with tekin motor 10.5 redline..
This is my set up...
Tamiya 417
FDR 7.5
Esc Set Up

4. 7
9. 30
10. 18'/0.1s
12. 34
13. 5000
14. 0.2sec
15. 600

motor timing is default...12'
my temp after 5 minute run is about 165 f.

Question 1...is this a good set up or is it can be adjust to make it more torque n more rpm without rising more temp?
Question 2...with this temp is it safe for the motor?
Thanks in advance guys.....

are you using hv servo's? if so you may need a capacitor. had this issue with my savox and orion sever as well and added a novak glitch buster. problem all gone :nod:

look for a nice used 1/8 motor and pair that up with your sp esc. nice part about the sp esc is that it's sensor or sensorless operable and does have some nice user friendly adjustments. imo if your just a club racer, there isn't a need for top of the line.

I'm going to give the sp motor a try and if I don't like it I will buy a nice sensored motor.

Solara's thoughts of the sensor wire or board might be right but I've run sensorless several times (mostly not on purpose) and never had that issue. I'm thinking the servo or possibly a connection that is slightly less than perfect somewhere. Check the bullet connections and all solder joints for a good connection too.

Let us know what you find (if you find it)

The temps are ok, but could be way lower. you definitely don't want it getting much higher. How is the overall speed? I was able to drop the pinion way down on most cars to get a higher FDR and with the boost and timing it was still plenty fast and the temps came way down.

overall speed is ok....but a bit slow on punch n turbo boost also coming late....i'm thinking of getting that punch n try to set that turbo boost a bit earlier.....higher fdr or adjust esc on timing?what do you suggest?
if higher fdr....7.8 is it ok?.....n if adjust esc timing(9)....is 34 enough?....and what to set to make boost open early?
can u share ur set up?....what motor do u use?...thanks mjk1210

I am using a cap and a savox servo on both rides. It is a strange thing. Usually I can tap the brakes without issues, but if I'm on the brake just a tad long, the cars stop for just a moment before they will go again.