I've been running the 528mod software all season on high bite clay with the SC boost function on most of the higher settings. This is with 2wd buggy geared 23/78 and 4wd buggy geared 23/78. Both with a 7.5 motor. The delay is set to 4000 rpm and the full throttle delay has been off. The last setting has been at -3 I think. I'm going to play with those settings a little more now that it's about in between indoor and outdoor season. I'll post findings. Motors are usually less than 130 degrees and speedos under 120 (usually way under).

This is rather off topic, but has anyone with a Cirtix Stock esc had a red LED flashing constantly? The red LED indicates that there is low voltage even though I have a fully charged LiPo hooked up.

I read somewhere that unplugging the sensor wire from the motor while the car was on and putting the wire back in would fix the problem. It hasn't.

Does anyone have a clue on how to fix this?

ttt

see this would work but the only options that the club spec has is 1# brake .. 2 Drage brake 3 thermo
no option of running mode ...
so any idea how i could get this switched and running i sensorless is the only way i can get the motors to go the right way its like the esc switched revered some how ..
Rob

Ygpm

Cirtix CLUB SPEC esc has red blinking lights on all the time is not because of low-voltage of the lipo, that red blinking light is ROAR required for club spec ESC to have that on to indicate you are running the approved sportsman SOFTWARE from your ESC...it is a indication for the SPEC to know you are running LEGAL SOFTWARE.

Our Short Course Master...is the same footprint ESC as the club spec, DOES NOT have that red blinking...we had spot some ppl used that ESC and put up the club spec decal on top and tried to cheat because short course master has 26.25* timing to add on MAX...obviously, that person got caught cheating immediately by show no red blinking light when he is on tech.

Does your ESC working properly..? You don't need to do anything...that red light will blink no matter how you do it....as long as you are running the CLUB SPEC ESC.

I flashed mod firmware with no timing for last nites race. I have never used mod firmware before as i have only run 13.5 since i switched to brushless.

I ran a lrp 10.5 and 9.5 in my durango and found that both sort of shuttered at low rpm and seemed to have a power-band to them. Off the ground giving throttle i would get a gradual acceleration and then a noticeable kick in rpm change around mid throttle. Does this sound like a bad flash? Or possibly a sensor wire issue. Temperatures where fine and i ran the night with 9.5 without much issue other then the low rpm lag shutter and that strange power-band effect. Almost as if it had timing of variable timing which it did not.

(side not the week before i had be having thermal-ling issues with the 10.5 running stock software) I wont discount the possibility of Esc issues but it did its job last nite under temp and without issues..

Ideas?

thanks in advance..

Yes, that does sound like a bad sensor wire to me. I would try a new sensor wire.

Thanks,

BINGO! sensor wire fixed it! Man more power too! LOL

Thanks i did not have a wire with me at the track last nite. Just did a bench test. its A- OK

Sweet!!

*&^$@#*&! Loaded 205Mod into my B44 and 212Stock into my B4, ready to hit the track. Heard from Cristian, both Tabushes are coming, Jorge and I have had a blast running 2wd SC last few times out. Joor is coming, Smiley Henn, going to be a great crowd for a club race. And then my parents call and decide they're coming tomorrow morning, not evening. My wife's blood pressure goes up and I'm stuck here doing stuff around the house LOL. And I'm running 1/8 nitro next weekend so I guess it will be a bit before I get to test the new software.

Now that the pity part is over, does anyone have settings for 17.5 running the 212 software in 2wd buggy? Trinity Nemesis 17.5, FDR 6.24 right now, track is tight, dusty and slick. Just looking for a baseline, and I didn't see anything for the 212 on the website. Both of the tracks we run 1/10 on here are outdoors, and we're already in the 90's, 100 deg days just around the corner. And of course Houston humidity, so anything I can do to keep motor temps down and still have good rip is a plus.

Hey cjtamu, Im running 212 software with a Novak 17.5 in my 2wd xxx cr buggy. My esc settings are the same as David Perez has posted on page 1 of this thread. Last week I played around with gearing and ended up with 30/78 and that felt good on bottom and top end. I tried gearing it lower but had a hard time clearing some jumps on a tight track. Motor temps never went over 110F.
Tom

Thanks Tom. Pretty close to what i guessed at, other than i have a lower value for 14 and a little higher for 15. hoping i can convince my wife to let me take my youngest daughter, my niece, and my granddaughter to the track for a bit tomorrow ha ha ha.

At least got to test the 212Stock in the street yesterday. Ran great, don't think this Nemesis is going to stay under 150 deg, just seems to be where it wants to run. See what it does on track. Couple questions. One, my LCD box shows this:

1-Running Mode
2- Drag Brake
6-Voltage Protect
7- DRRS Punch
3- Brake Force
1- Reverse Force
1- Initial Brake
1- Neutral Range
8- AMTS Timing
1- Overheat Protect
9- SC Boost Level
5- SC RPM Delay
5- Full Throttle Delay
2- SC Punch
Restore Default

Ha ha ha! Anyone else have a numbering system like that? Those aren't my settings, those are the way the item nos. show LOL.

My SC RPM Delay shows 4,000 to start rather than 1,800 and my SC punch also shows "Max", "-1", "-2", etc. rather than 100, 200, etc. I assume that's what they're addressing in the pdf addendum that I got when I unzipped the V1.35 software for the LCD box?

Yep, my LCD box reads the same. Its like the 212 software and the LCD doesnt agree. Thats ok as long as you know what it means.
Tom