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Program
I have a new reventon pro 1.1 and I can't change the running mode with the program box. It will scroll trough other settings but not the running mode.
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Originally Posted by AccessRacer
(Post 14075475)
I have a new reventon pro 1.1 and I can't change the running mode with the program box. It will scroll trough other settings but not the running mode.
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How difficult is it to re-solder the wires on a Reventon R. I had them cut extremely short for a particular application and now I'd like to use it in another vehicle that requires longer wires.
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Reventon Pro 1.1 repair
Guys, I have 1.1 that was cross connected and no longer works. Has anyone sent one in for repair past the warranty period? If so, how much was the bill? Thanks!
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Originally Posted by Hinecken
(Post 14092728)
How difficult is it to re-solder the wires on a Reventon R. I had them cut extremely short for a particular application and now I'd like to use it in another vehicle that requires longer wires.
First you want the ESC clamped upside-down firmly so it cannot move and then heat each solder point quickly as you pull the wire down. When it's hot enough it will slide right out and you will either have a clean hole which is what you want, or some solder will still reside there, which you can reheat and then blow hard on it to clear all solder, leaving it perfectly clean. From there you want to measure you're wire and CLEANLY strip off just BARELY over 1/16" of the insulation on all your wires and then twist the exposed end firmly for pre-tinning. You want your exposed leads tinned sparingly rather than feed a crapload of solder into the wire. Once tinned, test fit the wire into the holes to ensure they sold right in. If they don't you can lightly crimp them down a tad with pliers so they seat all the way down to the insulation, making extra sure no strands hang out anywhere. Once everything is all set, slide your leads into their corresponding holes and use an alligator clip to hold the leads as you solder them because they will be too hot to hold with you hands. From there, place a touch of flux on the already inserted lead and enlist some assistance to feed solder into the hole as you apply heat with your iron. Again, ensuring you don't use too much solder. When done right it will look just like a factory solder point, a very clean mirror like droplet. |
Originally Posted by the incubus
(Post 14093013)
Not at all. You just want a very high temp Soldering Iron and you want to use flux when re-soldering.
First you want the ESC clamped upside-down firmly so it cannot move and then heat each solder point quickly as you pull the wire down. When it's hot enough it will slide right out and you will either have a clean hole which is what you want, or some solder will still reside there, which you can reheat and then blow hard on it to clear all solder, leaving it perfectly clean. From there you want to measure you're wire and CLEANLY strip off just BARELY over 1/16" of the insulation on all your wires and then twist the exposed end firmly for pre-tinning. You want your exposed leads tinned sparingly rather than feed a crapload of solder into the wire. Once tinned, test fit the wire into the holes to ensure they sold right in. If they don't you can lightly crimp them down a tad with pliers so they seat all the way down to the insulation, making extra sure no strands hang out anywhere. Once everything is all set, slide your leads into their corresponding holes and use an alligator clip to hold the leads as you solder them because they will be too hot to hold with you hands. From there, place a touch of flux on the already inserted lead and enlist some assistance to feed solder into the hole as you apply heat with your iron. Again, ensuring you don't use too much solder. When done right it will look just like a factory solder point, a very clean mirror like droplet. |
4.0 motors
The search feature on the mobile site needs work, so I apologize if this is a repeat question. Is there anyone using the 4.0 motors in their offroad cars? Just concerned about using bullets. Thanks!
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I am still waiting for my repair which I paid fo in March. No communication any longer.
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Originally Posted by eragot
(Post 14097082)
I am still waiting for my repair which I paid fo in March. No communication any longer.
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Originally Posted by BigRon
(Post 14097054)
The search feature on the mobile site needs work, so I apologize if this is a repeat question. Is there anyone using the 4.0 motors in their offroad cars? Just concerned about using bullets. Thanks!
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Cost to repair was $59.99
Cost to replace was $69.99 Reventon Pro 1.1 I chose the $59.99 option For a prior repair (don't ask) I chose the replacement option and got a new one very quickly. |
Was that within the warranty period. 120 days I think. Mine is older than that. If not, that's a good deal. Replacement seems to be the better option.
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Out of warranty.
In retrospect, I would choose replacement.
Originally Posted by BigRon
(Post 14097527)
Was that within the warranty period. 120 days I think. Mine is older than that. If not, that's a good deal. Replacement seems to be the better option.
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Having issues with a GT LPF v1.1 when running sensored. It doesn't spin the motor most of the time, if I pull and release the throttle then sometimes it works. Tried several sensor cables and working motors.
Opened it and haven't seem any popped FETs or damage, ESC works correctly in unsensored but seemed kind off weak (read not much more powerful than my GM80r + 8.5 motor) with the original 5.5 Feigao motor powering a ZX5. |
I have a 3 month old reventon club stock that just stopped working recently. I've tried contacting SP about it and been directed to leave a message with my number and someone will call me back after being on hold for about 10 minutes. Has anyone discovered how to reach them? This seems very bad.
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