Got to watch Fred Perkins run the VTX8 in his Mugen MBX6 ECO with the new firmware for the first time. All I can say is wow, what an improvement. He had more power, it was more deliverable, and he had zero temp issues. If you don't have the newest VTX8 firmware (A61), make sure you get it!

Installed mine just now, will run it on the 28th, see the difference. I only ran one race and one practice day with the original FW.

Just back from a refreshing weekend away with the family -- they even got me on a zip line!!!! That was crazy some fun! Back to the questions:

sickpuppy- definitely check your profile - sound like your on profile 1 - I have done that by accident and the car wont to anything because its looking for a 4s battery. Its actually profile 3 - that is for 4 pole motor, 2s battery. Profile 4 is what Steve probably uses with his 2 pole VST motor!!!

hellssephiroth - sounds like its just that issue with the gearbox needing the extra gear, can't imagine its that much, in the grand scheme of everything rc/ And it will work really well. I run mid motored cars and trucks (X Factory), they have a great feel on track.

I also heard Fred was hauling the mail at Vineland over the weekend!!!!!!!

OMG - Gear up -- at least one tooth. Your esc temp is higher than your motor temp. The motor temp would be OK, if esc temp was not so high, I would like to run my esc about 66º-68ºC under normal conditions or lower. Outside temp has a little to do with that also, plus cooling holes in the body for both motor and esc.

With the vtx10r, what is the setting used in blinky to drop motor temps? Pwm? Lower pwm = lower temps?

Loaded question -- because it also relates to gear ratio, outside temps, driving style. General terms - higher freq would incrase esc temp (more switching on esc's parts) but feel smoother, lower freq would make motor feel aggresive, which could raise motor heat. Not a definitive answer, but hope it makes sense.

hmmmm. I am beginning to think my motor is just going to run hot. Thanks anyway.

you live in Arizona... your motor is hot while sitting in the box. :lol:

my old novak put out great power and could be geared up. I have good power now, but just hotter temps. But yeah, it will be really hot soon.

Whats the trick to getting the progauge to connect? I powered it on, pushed the red button again for 1 sec, it took like 7 tries to get F R blinking.

which firmware do you have? I hold for about 2 seconds. And it seems to work better if the radio is on and its show neutral. If you have the a30 I would upgrade it.

I power it up, press the button again for about a second and then the solid green light switches to solid orange. That lets you know you are in 'link mode' and you can proceed on the Proguage.

If you are still having troubles, try re-setting up the ESC. Set end points at 100 and rebind

This goes out to everyone, if you are running a30, you are running half a speed control IMO.

a55 is that much better.

They should be blinking, should be solid. It does take a nice push of the button, some think its really delicate but it take a nice "push" to active the button on the VPort.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XwVjxGAx3dE

Wildcat - what are you reading at hotter temps? especially after a qualifying heat or main event. Very different from practice. Generally, with any motor - club racing I try to stay around 150ºF. This is a good temp range, generally lets the motor last longer. Now at a big race, everyone has their own definition of a big race. I will run more temp, run harder try and find that limit of lap time. But if I am at 170 with slower lap times, went too far.

Nice video. :sneaky: