did you temp the motor? and was the N light solid while the other two were flashing, or were the two just flashing with nothing else?

Just checked the manual, flashing red and orange lights indicates thermal shut down of the motor. Mine did the same thing a few nights ago and low and behold I baked the 4.5XL.

had a viper system on my losi, threw the motor and esc as far as i could.. hated it!!!

Putting together a Schumacher K1 right now. Plan on running it on a slightly larger outdoor track and a small indoor carpet track. Switching back an forth this much what Viper motor would you guys suggest? Running it with a VTX10-BE

blue -- if the motor temp was low, you should check the Protection tab on the ProGauge, the motor cut off temp default should be around 220-230. This temperature is measured on the rotor not the can - so it will be higher that what people "think". If you raise it a little and run the car again, of course use your temp gun to be sure.

Blanotn -- Thanks? Did it fly further than other speed controls and motors you have thrown in the past or present? Would certainly be interested in finding out why you thought that PM, would be interested helping you get it set up correctly.

Spider -- is you looking at the using the VST maybe 6.5 - you can always reduce Forward Power on the indoor track if its too much inside.

you are the 3% who aren't happy with anything!!!

I will be at the Barn tonight, not on Sunday. Let me know if u r coming and I will bring my laptop.

im perfectly content with all my tekin products :D

Want a cookie?

Watch I thermaled a VTX10 with a 6.5t on my durango. Every one on this thread told me to not do it. They were right. Buy an R or get something else.

I have disliked various esc's for different reasons. But i cant say as I have ever "hated" any of them. You should have thrown your esc my direction. I would have gladly caught it. Tekin are ok. They lack anything close to the PG and the caps that come with it are awkward. Granted you can replace them with a $20 after market caps board. I looked very closely at the tekins before I hose the Vipers. Basically the tekin only offered a couple things the viper didnt, but the viper offered a ton of things the tekin didnt. These conversation always turn into ford vs chevy. The tekin gen2 is a little better with the increased bec, new hotwire plug and firmware. But they still didnt bother with a nice user interface. The made it out of plastic, where the viper is full aluminum. The switch is still poorly designed. And as of now, they didnt bother to make a mod version, but i hear something is coming sometime in the future. And to top is off, viper still has the best warranty of anyone one else. I would be glad to listen to anyone tell me how the tekin is better in a logical non biased fashion. The vtx10 line from my research is the overall best in the market. I can not comment on the copperhead or vtx8 line. The copperhead is sensorless and that is not really my thing. And the vtx8 wont fit in a tlr22 or b4, which is what I drive.

I see what your saying forsure, and yes it was the copperhead sensorless motor and esc that was the definition of cogging. terrible IMO. couldnt deal with it anymore after having sensored for a while. the vtx8 looks pretty good as far as looks go, just got a bad first impression of viper in all reality..

4wd application needs the 10R
 

If you plan on running your 4wd in a race condition with 7.5t or lower get the VTX10-R. the VTX10 isn't made for low turn motors. I run a 6.5 outdoors and a 9.5 indoors with my R and am very happy. I would think that a 7.5 would be the motor you want for both. You can turn it down inside if you need to. :nod::nod:

If you already have the VTX10-BE the 7.5 or 8.5 would be an ok choice.

First Impressions suck, and I feel ya because it only takes 1 bad unit to make the other 9,999 look bad, but the VTX line is no joke.

If you get another opportunity to try one, you should do so with no reservations. I have yet to find someone who has driven a Viper ESC and said 'oh, I don't like that at all'.

you cant really base much on a sensorless setup. Racing = sensored and bashing = sensorles. At least in my mine. The copperhead was designed as a cost saver. Which is usually bashers. I dont work for Viper and cant say for sure that I am 100% correct. But no one really makes and markets a sensorless setup for racing. They say you can race with it. Does not mean its the best for racing. I think once you run sensored, running sensorless is a very hard thing to do. If they ever get sensorless to the performance of sensored, I am totally in. I had a motors sensor board go out and it killed me esc. I was like wtf. But people told me yeah, that happens often enough, but its normal. Of your sensor cable goes bad mid race and your car stops in the middle of the track. That blows also. HW and maybe tekin over come this with dual mode. HW for sure. I unplugged my sensor after powering it up. and it kept running, but started cogging. It dropped seemed to automatically drop its self to sensorless. I think the tekin might only work in the mode you set it for. So if you set sensored, it wont work if the cable fails. There is no perfect esc and everyone has failures. it is how they handles the failures that maters. So far viper offers me 90% of what I want with a great warranty and support. Tekin only offers me about 60% of what I want, but they also have good support, but 1/2 the warranty. Tekins are ok, but you will never convince me that counting led's and blinking lights is better than a progauge that also acts a servo and lipo checker. The fact you didnt like a sensorless system does not surprise me, but I would not have written off the entire company or product line.