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Hey I have a viper vtx10 B.E, what exactly is throttle frequency? Should I just leave it stock?
Thanks |
Originally Posted by jnorwood_losi
(Post 11409639)
OK, I have a TLR22 with a Viper VTX10R and a Viper 8.5T motor 76 spur 21 pinion.
My car drives good very smooth, but I drove a couple pro's cars this weekend and I am looking for the RIP or SNAP in throttle they have, if I pull full throttle I want ALL the power instant. I am mostly a 1/8th Nitro racer so I dont know much about the ESC ect...someone else set up my ESC as follows Throttle: PMW Freq - 12000Hz Punch - 70% Curve - Linear Dead Band - Narrow Motor Power: Acc Boost - start 9500rpm finish 19500rpm Max Adv - 0 deg Slew - 15deg/.1sec... Max 0deg... delay .35sec So I played with some of it including boost but eveything I did only made it hit the rip I want after 10-15 feet and not instantly...it was poping wheelies down the strait but half way. ANY HELP AND ADVISE IS VERY MUCH APPRECIATED Look at your slipper. Maybe lock it down a little more. That will definitely give you immediate punch. |
Originally Posted by OMG23RC
(Post 11410044)
Hey I have a viper vtx10 B.E, what exactly is throttle frequency? Should I just leave it stock?
Thanks Programming option: Throttle PWM Frequency: Parameters are 2000hz / 2500hz / 3200hz / 4000hz / 8000hz / 12000hz / 16000hz PWM Stands for Pulse Width Modulation and is rated in hertz, meaning cycles per second. A lower PWM frequency will have a more aggressive throttle feeling (more torque) and have less motor RPM’s. The higher the throttle PWM frequency the smoother, more precise feeling. Higher PWM throttle PWM frequency increases motor RPM’s thus increasing motor temperatures. |
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
(Post 11406600)
Great job Viper! Thanks for the setups. I am going to check them out and see how mine compares.
One question, do you leave your radio EPA at 100 and Exp at 0 with these settings or do you adjust them as well? I calibrate the radio at 100% EPA and 0 Expo, then calibrate the ESC. Then given track conditions I may only run 85 or 90% End Point on the throttle depending on how much speed is needed (usually, the only place you use 100% is on the strait, if it is a slick track I will generally lower EPA to make it easier to drive on the infield, especially on low grip) As far as Expo goes, you have to remember that a less aggressive setting will manipulate only the middle part of the the throttle curve. So, for example, if you run -10% (on a Futaba Radio) you are making the throttle more conservative on the first half on the throttle curve, but on the last half it will feel more aggressive than if you left it at 0. I myself find that settings between 0 and -15 help, but it can make the throttle very aggressive on the back half of the throttle if I run it lower, which defeats the purpose. If I need something more conservative after that, I start thinking about lowering the EPA, less punch, or running a -Exp1 or -Exp2 setting in the ESC. The goal is to make the car easier to drive. Also, one can change gearing characteristics to help with traction. If you are using a 80% EPA on the throttle, and need more corner grip, you might be able to gear down a tooth and go up in EPA to 90%. You will have a similar top speed, but, the lower gearing will give you more grip coming out of the corner and be harder to spin out when you are coming on to a dusty strait away. Of course, you have to test and check temps on the ESC and motor when doing this, but it is an option that is available. IMO the throttle curve settings in the ESC work good, but you are kind of between 3 choices. 0, -1, and -2. To me, -1 works good, but -2 is usually way too soft. So I might use a combination of both the ESC curve and the Expo on the radio to get the feel right. Part of being successful in this racing is knowing how your car is supposed to feel. You have to get the chassis setup right first, but once it is good, you can use these tools to fine tune it. It is knowledge and testing that will teach you how all of this works. |
Originally Posted by jnorwood_losi
(Post 11409639)
OK, I have a TLR22 with a Viper VTX10R and a Viper 8.5T motor 76 spur 21 pinion.
My car drives good very smooth, but I drove a couple pro's cars this weekend and I am looking for the RIP or SNAP in throttle they have, if I pull full throttle I want ALL the power instant. I am mostly a 1/8th Nitro racer so I dont know much about the ESC ect...someone else set up my ESC as follows Throttle: PMW Freq - 12000Hz Punch - 70% Curve - Linear Dead Band - Narrow Motor Power: Acc Boost - start 9500rpm finish 19500rpm Max Adv - 0 deg Slew - 15deg/.1sec... Max 0deg... delay .35sec So I played with some of it including boost but eveything I did only made it hit the rip I want after 10-15 feet and not instantly...it was poping wheelies down the strait but half way. ANY HELP AND ADVISE IS VERY MUCH APPRECIATED To be honest, unless you are running a fairly tight slipper, you are just going to slip the clutch. And if you try tightening it up, make sure the diff is tight. We run some carpet off road here, and you have enough grip to flip a car over from a dead stop given enough traction with a 8.5 motor. I've seen guys do it. But it is hard to win with a car like that, even on the carpet. If you want more bottom, gear down a tooth, go up 5-8 degrees on the motor itself. Of course test and check temps as you do it though. |
Originally Posted by FLHX1550
(Post 11410932)
For me at least, all of the adjustments of EPA & Expo on the radio are tools used while you are in a race or practicing.
I calibrate the radio at 100% EPA and 0 Expo, then calibrate the ESC. Then given track conditions I may only run 85 or 90% End Point on the throttle depending on how much speed is needed (usually, the only place you use 100% is on the strait, if it is a slick track I will generally lower EPA to make it easier to drive on the infield, especially on low grip) As far as Expo goes, you have to remember that a less aggressive setting will manipulate only the middle part of the the throttle curve. So, for example, if you run -10% (on a Futaba Radio) you are making the throttle more conservative on the first half on the throttle curve, but on the last half it will feel more aggressive than if you left it at 0. I myself find that settings between 0 and -15 help, but it can make the throttle very aggressive on the back half of the throttle if I run it lower, which defeats the purpose. If I need something more conservative after that, I start thinking about lowering the EPA, less punch, or running a -Exp1 or -Exp2 setting in the ESC. The goal is to make the car easier to drive. Also, one can change gearing characteristics to help with traction. If you are using a 80% EPA on the throttle, and need more corner grip, you might be able to gear down a tooth and go up in EPA to 90%. You will have a similar top speed, but, the lower gearing will give you more grip coming out of the corner and be harder to spin out when you are coming on to a dusty strait away. Of course, you have to test and check temps on the ESC and motor when doing this, but it is an option that is available. IMO the throttle curve settings in the ESC work good, but you are kind of between 3 choices. 0, -1, and -2. To me, -1 works good, but -2 is usually way too soft. So I might use a combination of both the ESC curve and the Expo on the radio to get the feel right. Part of being successful in this racing is knowing how your car is supposed to feel. You have to get the chassis setup right first, but once it is good, you can use these tools to fine tune it. It is knowledge and testing that will teach you how all of this works. |
Thanks for the advise guys. I did adjust the punch some but did not seem to help, again the car is super smooth and I am doing really well with it. I just want that little more rip to be there only if I need it (and with a couple new jumps in our layout, I might need it some) I am very happy with the Viper system and the performance!! I think I will tighten my slipper some because I have ran it a little loose and maybe drop a tooth on the pinion. Thanks again!
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Originally Posted by dakilo
(Post 11410253)
Throttle
Programming option: Throttle PWM Frequency: Parameters are 2000hz / 2500hz / 3200hz / 4000hz / 8000hz / 12000hz / 16000hz PWM Stands for Pulse Width Modulation and is rated in hertz, meaning cycles per second. A lower PWM frequency will have a more aggressive throttle feeling (more torque) and have less motor RPM’s. The higher the throttle PWM frequency the smoother, more precise feeling. Higher PWM throttle PWM frequency increases motor RPM’s thus increasing motor temperatures. The higher the freq the faster the ESC will "clock" the motor at. Think of it as a light switch. 2000hz means the ESC is cycling the switch 2000 times a second, with 16,000 it is 16,000 times a second. If you turn the light on and off fast enough, you won't be able to tell it is going off at all. Now, some common sense here. Think about a 22.5 turn motor. It has 22 turns of wire around the lamination. That piece of wire is so many inches long to make 22 turns. Compare it to a 5.5 turn motor, you have allot less wire to only go 5.5 turns. Take both pieces of wire and lay them strait, and one is like 10" long, the other might be 20" long. In a perfect world, the optimum frequency should change for the different length of wire. In real world application however, what you are tuning here is feel. There is no optimum setting for this as what works good for a certain car or a certain motor. You have to know what you are looking for first. |
Originally Posted by Bob Barry
(Post 11411167)
well my main concern was geared towards how much brakes you guys run. I typically run alot less brake than you have on that 2wd mod setup. I'm going to try it exactly as you posted it and see how it feels, but I'm worried it's too much drag brake and too much brake in general.
Most days, I am at 15% or less drag brake on the tracks here in Minnesota, with a brake EPA of 80 or so. The track at Trackside had a good groove on it this weekend. |
Hello all!
Just wanted to stop in and give some feedback. I have been running the VTX10 and VTX10R since June in my DEX210 and DEX410v3 The speedos and motors are great! Very easy to tune and love the fact I dont need a computer to change my settings at the track! Keep up the great work! |
Thanks Fred, be safe out there with the snow.....
I can't believe there is now outside my house, this is crazy!! :weird::eek: |
Originally Posted by nikos2002
(Post 11416627)
Thanks Fred, be safe out there with the snow.....
I can't believe there is now outside my house, this is crazy!! :weird::eek: going to send out an application. been doing well in mod just bouncing around cars to find out what I wonder.:tire: |
Originally Posted by nikos2002
(Post 11416627)
Thanks Fred, be safe out there with the snow.....
I can't believe there is now outside my house, this is crazy!! :weird::eek: Also forgot to add that the service is also top notch! I had a problem with one of my motors and they took care of it in no time! |
I'm considering using my vtx10r w/ a 550 4 pole motor on 3s. Anyone have any experience w/ this setup? This will be run in a light weight 1/8 buggy. Am I just asking for trouble? I'm also considering adding a rubycon cap and using an external bec if it helps the esc survive.
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Wait for the VTX8 to come out. The 10R was not made to handle 4 pole motors.
Coming soon......... What's that big shopping day this month?? |
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