Wow, cant believe noone responded to this....Especially a Viper rep. Posting agin......

Well I was racing tonight with my Copperhead VX4.39 motor and ESC on my XXX-SCT, running low 140 temps, went over a jump and pow, it dies. I cant power up the ESC at all. I was at the local track and everyone looked at it and couldn't find any inital problems like loose connections, etc.
The ESC sometimes will show a faint red light then quickly fade after about 3 seconds from pushing the ESC power button. Has the ESC died? Do I need to send the motor and ESC back to Viper?

Anyone else have this problem? I tried everything I know anlong with the experts at the track. Everyone was stumped. Its really wierd it would just up and quit and never turn on again.

If you have tried looking at all of the obvious things, like the connections and such, I would say go ahead and give them a call. Are any of the wires coming out of the switch broken? If you wiggle the switch wires does it light up at all? I mean, electronics can fail, at any time with no reason, after all, they are just sand and metal!!!

I would for sure give them a call. They are pretty quick with customer service.

I ended up calling them, said send it back and they will replace. Didn't know if anyone knew any "trick" that may reset the ESC before I was going to be without it for a few weeks.
thx

Looking for a set-up for 2wd SC10, indoor clay track, using the VTX10R with the Viper 8.5T?

Thank you!

Dumb question but out of curiousty will the vtx10r run brushed motors

I am in the market for a new esc. Would the VTX1 work in a Durango DEX410 with a 8.5? I am interested in this speedo because I would like to put it in a WGT car this winter so like the fact it will run on 1s or 2s.

Hooked the VTX10r up to the progauge yesterday and wasnt able to "link" with the procedures in the manual. The only way I could get it to link up was to turn on the radio, power up the ESC, hold the power button on the ESC for a second after turn up which illuminated the F and R LEDs, and then link. Once I made the changes I was after, I couldnt power down the ESC and had to unplug the battery after the save.

After some further testing, this is the only way I'm able to get anything to work and I still cant power down the ESC after programming. Any ideas?

Also, I was curious what the current draw of my servo (Hitec 7940) was but it looked like that field was zerod out. I saw voltage and some other fields but nothing in the amp field.

You are "saving" changes and not "loading" when you are connected....correct?

madweazl - the push button is not as sensitive as a lot of people think. you have to push it. so when the car is in ready to run (battery plugged in), turn the esc on, let it cycle through the start up. After the start up. touch it one time to get the red and orange lights. Plug in the ProGauge. make your changes - make sure to save them. unplug the ProGauge, again touch the button to go back to racing mode. But make sure you see the lights change when you push the button - it does take a square little push. So people think its really a sensitive button, but its not, otherwise it could turn off in rough crash.

I normally start in race blinky mode, with throttle freq 9600, punch-75, power 90. More traction, turn up the power. Less traction turn down the punch and the power a little. Need more top end - gear up or you can add a little boost if you can handle it.

Yes, I ran a 7.5 in my 4wd with the VTX10 when we were doing the initial testing. Just monitor your temps at the start to be careful.

No it will not, sorry.

I was pretty deliberate with the button pushes but I'll make a conscious effort to press it harder next time (I cant imagine this is the problem but I've seen stranger things). The only other issue I've encountered is that this speed control runs significantly hotter than my Tekin RS Pro. With no changes other than the ESC in my Cat SX3, the Tekin ran 114 degrees while the Viper 10R is coming off at 150 degrees. There havent been any thermal issues performance wise but it seemed odd that it was running so much hotter. I'm not running any boost on either setup. Motor temp was up a bit as well (170 vice 162). Any ideas on the cause?

Bought one of the VTX10's today a couple hours before a race today to run 2wd buggy. I didn't have time to practice much more than 3 or 4 laps so I just used the preset for 13.5. I ran 1st 5 min qualifier and it was great, came off pretty cool. I went to run the 2nd qualifier and it shut off in my first warm up lap and now won't turn back on. Any ideas on what could be wrong? Assuming I'll just need to send it back in for warranty. Really disappointing, this is the most expensive ESC I have ever bought and didn't even get 10 mins out of it.

madweazl - can't speak for other companies, but the top of our unit is a heat sink, so if you are using a temp gun on the top of the unit, it could be a little higher than some. As long as its not tripping the internal cut off (internal temp is much higher than what you will read on the outside), you should be OK, I have run my esc hotter at times.

8º difference is motor temp isn't that different, there are lots of things that can do that. Biggest question would be track performance, did you get everything you needed out of the set up?

And we do see people who don't push the button hard enough - or don't wait for the steps of start up to finish before they expect the next thing to happen. Same thing happens to some people during calibration.