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Originally Posted by FLHX1550
(Post 10685780)
Viper had just went into business when the VSE motors were released, and the only real problem was that we tested the motors with Team Drivers / Experienced Racers. Everything performed fine and we had good results. It is when the motors made it into the hands of those less experienced that there were overheating problems.
The failure came in a young company that didn't know you had to consider not everyone is a experienced racer. The motors ran well, and we have some team drivers who have run them week in and week out for over a year with no issues, it was the people that were new to R/C, or new to Brushless, that would start off with a guess on gearing and over-heat them. Viper re-called the motors and refunded everyone's money, not because they were bad, but to make sure the customers were satisfied. Rather than point fingers / blame towards the users not being experienced enough, or just replace motors until people "were off warranty", Viper did the right thing. Give them their money back so they can go purchase what they needed. It was a costly learning experience, but it has allowed for more time for R&D and engineering to make sure the product is not just a "racer's level" product. 1/8th electric is a class / market that is only popular in the US, and is a very small segment of that market, but Viper has committed to that market. We are still testing, and doing the "un-thinkable" to these motors to prove them out. We've changed our testing procedures and thought process to more duplicate the whole market, not just the racers. |
Originally Posted by FLHX1550
(Post 10685705)
I have a Savox 1258 in my SCTE and have run Copperhead allot (R.51) and have had no issues with my radio system (Futaba 603 Receiver).
Some ESC's / Radio combinations experience problems with glitch and brown out issues, due to the BEC not having enough amp capacity that require to run a glitch capacitor / external BEC. In my opinion this tends to get the blame pinned on the ESC, or the servo, but it usually seems to be all relating around a particular radio brand. Fortunately we have had no reports of those issues with any of the Viper ESCs irregardless of the radio system or receiver used. I myself have 4 cars with Viper ESCs, all have Savox 1257 or 1258 servos and no issues. Thanks, I am using a Futaba 4PL radio system ( Futaba R2104GF receiver ). I'll give the servo a try. |
TLR22 viper esc and viper 13.5
I run indoor carpet, can someone point me to a esc setup and gearing for a tlr22 with a viper esc and viper 13.5.
At my skill level I am not running a boost mode. Running it in the blinky mode profile 4. Endbell timing at 35. FDR is 5 or 34pinion and 70t spur.. How off am I? I checked the temp after a race it was around 125 degrees.. Should I choose a boosted profile? What can I change to make it seem more smooth.. Thanks |
Got to try out the copperhead/5150 combo and I am impressed. Good job Viper, and for the price IMO its unbeatable.
First of all, while it doesnt have the feel of sensorless, and it has a feel that is unique unto itself, it is very smooth. The power delivery from low to mid throttle is very very smooth and tame while giving it a good on throttle gives a massive surge of power comes on smooth, which feels drasticaly different than my pro 4 combo which hits real hard. What the Viper combo does is provide a very usable powerband that is easy to drive hard without punishing you for being to quick on throttle. I never knew sensorless could feel so good:) BTW how many watts does this motor make? |
zleader - PM me your esc settings, and I can give some recommendations.
symmetricon - Thanks - the check is in the mail!! (:lol::lol::lol:). Glad you like it, its a deal for the performance you get. Don't know about the wattage, I will check with the engineers, I normally don't care if its fast on the track!! |
Anyone got a starting throttle/brake setup for a VTX10 and an 8.5 in a 4wd buggy? Wondering if I should put any accel boost in.
Also, is there any reason I shouldn't set the VBEC to 7V? |
Silv if you run it at seven and have your cutoff at 6.4 or what ever you have it set, when the pack goes so does everything else. I run mine at 6.0 and never had a problem with it.
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tq's again but need to find setting to run smoother every time final main hits track has nooo traction
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Originally Posted by Jtipsy
(Post 10693973)
Silv if you run it at seven and have your cutoff at 6.4 or what ever you have it set, when the pack goes so does everything else. I run mine at 6.0 and never had a problem with it.
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silvalis- start throttle pwm about 9600 or 12k, brakes are little more personal, everyone likes something little different. I never ran boost in 4wd buggy. Nu I guess it would depend on length of track and traction available. Just keep one eye on your temperatures until you are happy with the direction.
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I'm looking at replacing my LRP's and see 2 versions of the VTX10. I understand that the R has no motor limit, but does it "feel" different on the track?
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Originally Posted by Bob Barry
(Post 10696904)
I'm looking at replacing my LRP's and see 2 versions of the VTX10. I understand that the R has no motor limit, but does it "feel" different on the track?
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Originally Posted by nikos2002
(Post 10639698)
aprilliamille - I ran 86/23 with a 9.5 last year, maybe 24-25 depending on track with a 10.5. Don't forget to check temps when you start out to help verify.
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Thanks for the interest Bob - Guy answered the question for me. BTW, your gonna like it!!!;):tire:
apriliamille - go for it! Might just want to check the temps after the first 2 minutes on track just to verify. It also depends on how hard you are on the throttle and brakes, more aggressive generates more heat. |
BTW - got some cool results via text little while ago, need to verify some stuff before we go into more detail.
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