Viper RC -
#2686
Thanks Salad. I'll give those settings a try. Motor ran great up to that point. No cutting out at full throttle. Someone may have been you said there is a fan kit coming out. Any idea when?
#2687
Cliff notes: Is it possible to buy just the windings or can (not sure how it's assembled) for a Viper VST 17.5?
So, on Friday I was practicing for the first time with my new buggy (running a 17.5) and on what was originally planned to be my last practice run (coming off ~130), my car got punted about ten feet at the end of a straight by an out-of-control 1/8th scale. After being flipped back over, I ran briefly (30-40 more feet) with the car barely able to move before the throttle simply cut out. When I got to it, the car was definitely not smelling good, like burned windings. It was pretty warm, too (~165).
Due to how tight and rough the wheels felt, combined with the smell, I thought the motor was toast. However, in the pits I found that the motor/pinion had slid forward until it was jammed tight into the spur gear and could barely rotate.
After that, I slid it back and let it cool, then tried to get it to move, and it did. It still smelled like burnt windings, but I didn't have a spare motor. So I then did another practice run, assuming it'd either stutter or run slow, but it seemed alright, aside from the strong smell it constantly let out and the increase of about 25-30 degrees during a run (and unusually high power consumption).
I didn't have a lot of hope for the race the next day, so I just ran it as is to avoid removing the motor from my SC to swap into it. Surprisingly, in spite of the intense smell every time I got near and 160-ish end temperatures, it ran fine, and I did as well as I normally would have.
There's definitely something wrong with it, based on the smell, but I haven't taken it all apart yet to find exactly what it is (no chance yet). I also only see rotors, sensor units, solder tabs, and end caps available as replacement parts. Can I just replace the can and/or windings, or am I looking at buying another motor?
Thanks!
So, on Friday I was practicing for the first time with my new buggy (running a 17.5) and on what was originally planned to be my last practice run (coming off ~130), my car got punted about ten feet at the end of a straight by an out-of-control 1/8th scale. After being flipped back over, I ran briefly (30-40 more feet) with the car barely able to move before the throttle simply cut out. When I got to it, the car was definitely not smelling good, like burned windings. It was pretty warm, too (~165).
Due to how tight and rough the wheels felt, combined with the smell, I thought the motor was toast. However, in the pits I found that the motor/pinion had slid forward until it was jammed tight into the spur gear and could barely rotate.
After that, I slid it back and let it cool, then tried to get it to move, and it did. It still smelled like burnt windings, but I didn't have a spare motor. So I then did another practice run, assuming it'd either stutter or run slow, but it seemed alright, aside from the strong smell it constantly let out and the increase of about 25-30 degrees during a run (and unusually high power consumption).
I didn't have a lot of hope for the race the next day, so I just ran it as is to avoid removing the motor from my SC to swap into it. Surprisingly, in spite of the intense smell every time I got near and 160-ish end temperatures, it ran fine, and I did as well as I normally would have.
There's definitely something wrong with it, based on the smell, but I haven't taken it all apart yet to find exactly what it is (no chance yet). I also only see rotors, sensor units, solder tabs, and end caps available as replacement parts. Can I just replace the can and/or windings, or am I looking at buying another motor?
Thanks!
Send the motor back to Viper and they will take a look and let you know what needs to be replaced. Hard to tell until tech can take a look at it.
#2688
The fan mounts are being anodized as we speak and will be out at the end of the month.
#2689
I don't have any batteries out of balance....I was just putting a safe Voltage cutoff out there for anyone who is just getting into the hobby or don't know anything about Lipo's....I would hate to see someone with a $12.99 Lipo set at 6.0V...I think that would almost be like playing russian roulette....lol...Someone getting into the hobby is going to run it till it is dead...or there kid!!!!
#2690
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 5,071
Viper powered caster vs a castle powered RC8. Caster is the rainbow color and the RC8 is a dark color...
| + YouTube Video | |
#2691
With these setting I find the truck 2 run good. On thing I don't like is the lag in throttle. Like say in the air if u want 2 bring up the nose. Is this a result of the low throttle punch?
Had a great day of testing and found some helpful settings for those of you running our VTX10R ESC and planning on running our 550 motors.
VST5.5XL- 15tooth pinion. VTX10R-Profile #2, Brake strength 80%, Brake PWM freq 8000Hz, Brake curve linear, Neutral Drag brake 10%, THROTTLE PWM freq 9600Hz, Throttle punch 20%-30%, Throttle curve linear, Deadband middle, no timing - default, not motor protection, esc protection 240 degrees. (esc temp 130-150)-(motor temp 150-160)
VST4.5XL-14tooth pinion. VTX10R-Profile#2, Brake strength 80%, Brake PWM freq 8000HZ, Brake curve linear, Neutral drag brake 10%, Throttle PWM freq 9600Hz, Throttle punch 15%-20%, Throttle curve linear, Deadband middle, no timing- default, no motor protection, esc protection 240 degrees. (esc temp 120-140)-(motor temp 150-170)
Track type Indoor Clay high bite for both test results. Tests were done in 3min-5min-10min intervals. The brake settings really helped cool down some temps. We also found the under geared motors will run very hot. Be sure to check your gearing, it is very important. I felt that the VST5.5XL was the better choice for indoor racing. The powerband seemed to be a lot wider and smoother for tighter tracks. The VST4.5XL was impressive but was a bit much for the track. Lap times were more consistent with the VST5.5XL, and the temps were much easier to manage. All of our testing was done with a fairly stock Losi TEN-SCTE, A very heavy 4WD short course as most of you already know. The settings provided here were a bench mark to help those who are new to the brand and even some who are quite familiar. Give these a try and let us know how they work at your track.
VST5.5XL- 15tooth pinion. VTX10R-Profile #2, Brake strength 80%, Brake PWM freq 8000Hz, Brake curve linear, Neutral Drag brake 10%, THROTTLE PWM freq 9600Hz, Throttle punch 20%-30%, Throttle curve linear, Deadband middle, no timing - default, not motor protection, esc protection 240 degrees. (esc temp 130-150)-(motor temp 150-160)
VST4.5XL-14tooth pinion. VTX10R-Profile#2, Brake strength 80%, Brake PWM freq 8000HZ, Brake curve linear, Neutral drag brake 10%, Throttle PWM freq 9600Hz, Throttle punch 15%-20%, Throttle curve linear, Deadband middle, no timing- default, no motor protection, esc protection 240 degrees. (esc temp 120-140)-(motor temp 150-170)
Track type Indoor Clay high bite for both test results. Tests were done in 3min-5min-10min intervals. The brake settings really helped cool down some temps. We also found the under geared motors will run very hot. Be sure to check your gearing, it is very important. I felt that the VST5.5XL was the better choice for indoor racing. The powerband seemed to be a lot wider and smoother for tighter tracks. The VST4.5XL was impressive but was a bit much for the track. Lap times were more consistent with the VST5.5XL, and the temps were much easier to manage. All of our testing was done with a fairly stock Losi TEN-SCTE, A very heavy 4WD short course as most of you already know. The settings provided here were a bench mark to help those who are new to the brand and even some who are quite familiar. Give these a try and let us know how they work at your track.
#2692
Tech Addict
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 729
From: Idaho,
My truck dosent really have issues with it but you may want to try gearing up. More wheelspeed should help. That isnt lag in the throttle. Its a smooth powerband. Your lap times should improve with these settings. Your truck should be easier to drive aswell.
#2694
So far everything is still on schedule. End of November for the release of the VX4's and Copperhead ESC. I will be posting pictures of the ESC tomorrow. Or if you are up late enough you might see it tonight.
#2695
#2698



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