ixlr8nz

It can really only be one of two things:

Poor quality batteries that can't handle the current and therefore the receiver is not getting the power. This usually happens at a point in the race where there is serious current drawn. Don't get fooled into thinking LRP has better batteries than anyone else. If you are running your current limit at 9 you may have this problem.

The battery connectors cannot handle the current or are worn and give a bad connection. (very likely the problem)

Mike

R3VoLuTiOn

iTrader: (29)

Had my first non club race with this speedo this weekend.

phenomenal performance, runs cool, quick, smooth and has a small case. Not as small as LRP, but for the money, I am super satisfied.

Born2Run

Try turn off the voltage protection.

UrabusDenis

Thanks for the suggestions, I'll try with a different sensor wire and also new connectors. Just to make sure if you understand the problem, by 'lost power' I mean that there is no boost&turbo (the car is going, the connection betweem the transmitter and receiver is not lost). Also is it normal for a spark to apper every time I connect the battery with the receiver (happens with the 5300 mAh LRP and not with the 5400 CS), is that a sign that connectors should be changed?

COBRARACING

The spark when connecting the pack is normal and different connectors will behave different some spark some dont .nothing to worry about

outoforder

iTrader: (34)

I have a ? Is the boost and turbo effected by the esc you are running? I.e. will a 120amp be better over a 60amp esc?
I'm also considering buying my 5th hobbywing esc and don't know which one of these esc would be better for my onroad 1/10 tc , running asphalt , open esc anything goes only a 10.5 motor limit, and 2 cell lipo limit in the class.
http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-xerun-...-1s-black.html
Or this one
http://www.hobbypartz.com/07e-c-xerun-120a-sd.html
What is the difference on these 2 escs? Any help would be appreciated.
Also does it matter if I use the led box or the advanced lcd box? Thanks again for any help.

macdude

iTrader: (6)

I would check your sensor wire as I believe the ESC will switch to sensorless mode if the sensor signal is lost. If you have a bad sensor wire or board in your motor this could be the cause of the weird power/no power issue. Going from boosted sensored mode to sensorless during a run will seem like you have lost all your boost, because you have when the ESC is in sensorless mode. I have had this happen on another ESC during a race and that is what it turned out to be, a bad sensor board on the motor. What made it hard to track down was that about half the time it worked like normal.

Slapmaster6000

iTrader: (16)

After a rough boot camp at Dumper's Speed Shop, I entered the racing arena with a basic understanding of this speed control. I soldered up 3 x HW 1S #7002 in my CRC rides for the Emerald City Classic in Seattle this past weekend. 2 in my 13.5 spec 12th scale and 1 in the WGT 10.5 boost. Result: 2 poles, 2 wins. In my roughly 28 years of driving, I have NEVER felt a speed control with this kind of brakes! For the first time I could use proportional brake, applying just what I need the mind racing speed to accurately pin every corner of the speed of boosted 10.5. And the punch!!! Are you kidding me? It was like a soccer ball getting blasted out of the park. This speed control has re-energized my racing enthusiasm. It's a little funky to get used to at the programing side, but anything new has a learning curve. I am simply amazed. Thank you Hobby Wing!

Shawn68z

iTrader: (6)

Hey Bill, welcome to the HW!

Make sure your 2in1 is updated. You have to make sure the proper device is selected in the laptop software. Once that is done, do the software upload form the laptop to the 2in1 TWICE. Trust me on this one.

Then you can change the device, hook up the ESC to the 2in1, and then turn on the ESC. I always use a 2S lipo for programming the ESC. It should find the ESC, then do a software upgrade to the ESC. Twice.

If you goto the HW Set up forum, then first post has a link to Cherry2Blost's youtube video.

Remember if running 508 (No Boost) turn off the LVC or it will not work with 1S.

Cheers,
Shawn

dumper

iTrader: (1)

I told you this stuff was top fuel.

3 weeks ago in North Dakota, TQ and win in WGT. TQ and second in 1/12th 13.5 boosted, TQ and third in 17.5 blinky TC, Qual 2nd and finish second in 17.5 blinky 12th scale.

2 weeks ago in Colorado, 4 TQ, 4 wins in WGT, 13.5 and 17.5 12th scale, and 17.5 TC.

This past weekend at the Canadian On Road Nationals, I won WGT, 2nd in boosted 17.5 12th scale and 4th in TC.

Alot of people are taking notice.

M7H

As Nosram is LRP, which motor are you talking about?
The X12? (Nosram pure?)
If X12, then try the 101224_STOCK firmware for that particular motor.
If X11 then go for the latest firmware.

Also check axial play on rotor, and minimise as much as possible.....

scytherat

Desperatly need some help. I was an idiot yesterday and connected my esc up wrong way. ESC is ok but teh capacitor pack is dead, Problem i have is no one in the uk has any stock so can i use this

http://demonpowerproducts.co.uk/prod...pacitor-p-5242

Its a speedpassion 4 capacitor bank, looks just like the hobbywing one

Bappe

any news on the v3 esc?

banquer

Go to a Electronic comerce and buy 2200uf 16V capacitor.
Is cheaper.
I'd running my Xerun 120 with it, last two races!
Cheers!

COLD AS ICE

iTrader: (19)

Hey Brian, who do i contact about getting one of those super nice HobbyWing t-shirts Nice runs lately!