Hi mate .

I didnt say it cannot be used the the sp and the hw is the same all i said was that the 528 with low starting rpm is the firmware update code for sp thats all .

All the software can be used as the software is designed by michael from HW not sp .sorry for the confusion

As for the xtreme stock esc from what i know yesterday they have a little delay with a capacitor issue i was told 5 more days until its release .

if you use 13.5T ,you can try this setting :

9=7
12=8 or 9
13=4
14=5
15=4

FDR : 6.4

sp.lrp.novak,faigo,they are all good

hi

how dose the hw 120a compare with other brands like lrpsxx tekin rs pro etc?????

At the state titles I was keeping up performance wise with the LRP's, Tekin's and I believe some GM esc's as well. My driving on the other hand was letting me down a lot:lol:

i have sxx ss that was a disgrace,also have tekin rs pro u just go to find sweet spot esc set up, gearing n motor combo...used the hw 120 blue spirit with the 518sw and its been the smoothest and easy to find a good set up.motor temps are always on the cool side after 5min of racing.:nod:

I ran the 518sw at Whalan last Sunday. Very impressed. Motor was 135F after a run. Still have a bit of work to go with getting the right rollout. Was running 30mm, but was about 4 car lengths slower on the long back straight compared to a Tekin / Speed Passion 17.5 V3. I was using an old Fantom Duo motor. Sure beats having to run 52mm rollout!!!

Looking forward to see what it does in an off road buggy. As the tyres ballon, what rollout should I look at?

Does tekin have this turbo software as well?

Hi all,

Any different between HW518stock (start low RPM) and SP528stock??? What is the different?????

similar level and getting better with new software like the turbo timing ,new mosfet board,motor temps are lower and much more linear power distribution etc .The only major difference is the price hobbywing is better priced than the above units mentioned.

no difference at all like i said the 518 is the software code for hw and the 528 is the code for sp .But yes the sp528 was the test software for the low starting rpm which now is implemented in the 518

when it comes to comparing my setup was slower to the tekin using the hw with the turbo software is not a correct way of explaining things .

No matter what software your using may it be a tekin setup or hw or lrp it all comes down to the driver and his car setup everything comes into play when it comes to tyre choice,track temp,gearing,drive train ,battery,motor choice as motors even though state the same turns do have different resistant readings and many more factors .it might take someone 1 day, 1 week or even a year to get it right .

I did not want to start a new thread, but I hope someone can help me here. I am using a HW XeRun 60a/13.5 combo with software 518_Stock in my Cyclone S. Long store short, I was going full speed down the straight and my car slowed to a crawl and made a high pitched whining noise. Turns out, both my diff's loosened and melted (front and rear). Now my motor makes a low pitch grinding noise. It was never like that before. I pulled the motor apart and it all seems ok and rebuilt it and oiled the bearings and still the same. It seems to drive ok but makes an annoying noise. Did I kill my motor? What are some symptoms of a brushless motor going bad? Thanks...

Ok a grinding noise will be your bearings even though you said you oiled them maybe the damage has already been done see some of the balls in the bearing might have flat edges already but only noticed when its in operation .by you physically rotating the bearing or the motor rotor might not be enough to hear the noise as bearings do move around in there cage and you might not get the spot that is flat at that time or rotaion.

Im sure it is your bearings being off balance within the motor .If it was a high piched noise you can say it is frequency related with means electricals within the motor but i dout it ..Im sure by the gear melting and going hay wire would have put your motor bearings off balance and causing you the damage.once the bearings are damaged no mateerr what grease or oil you apply to them they will never be the same .

I hope i have helped you out a little

Check the rotor, if you kept it pinned when you did your diffs you were free revving the motor, most likely you have demaged the rotor, some motors the magnetic portion of the rotor can seperata and spin on the rotor shaft. This is what will cause a really ugly sound out of the motor.

Ok, I checked the rotor and it is not spinning on the shaft and I took the bearings out, cleaned them and reoiled them and now the sound of the motor has changed to a very low buzz. Like the bzzzzz of a bee. It seems ok, so I guess I will keep driving it until it breaks. Thanks for the help...