Reflah with 205G, then reflash again with whatever software you want to use. Check that the sensor lead is pushed right in and has no breaks in it, then check for the LiPo cutoff, try turning it off.

Thats what I do can generally come up with where the fault lies.

Turn off the lipo cut and try again.

found it... turned out to be a busted sensor wire (which was, ironically, new... :|).

Thanks a bunch for the help, bud! :)

Super stuart saves the day again:-)

Im using a v2.o xerun 120A speedie, 211 STOCK software and duo 3 motor, -3.5 timing on the can

FDR 6.8
DRRS: 8
Boost timing: 35
Turbo sope: 24
Turbo timing: 35
Start RPM: 1000
Turbo Delay: .2 sec
Timing ACC: 150

I need the car to be quicker on the bottom end. turbo seems to still come in late ont he str8. start RPM seems to have little effect.

I also cant find a description of timing ACC in the manual.

boost timing: 45
turbo timing: 19
turbo delay : 0.5
timing acc: 50

then you get a quicker car

You've not mentioned what motor, so I assume it's a 17.5, on 2s?

Agree with the above on the bottom end, try a shorter acceleration value, 100 or 50. Personally I would also look to raise the start RPM regardless, as at 1000 it's doing piss all (Trust me when I say a motor will never spin at 1000rpm on track, always much higher!). 4000+ at least to get it working properly, and that would then bring back some bottom end.

The ACC value relates to how quickly the boost timing only comes in.
A smaller value means faster. What it relates to is the number of RPM increase needed for each degree to be added.
So 150 means that 1° of boost timing is added for every extra 150rpm on the motor. By simple calculation, combined with the start rpm and overall boost setting, gives you the RPM range. For example, with your above settings;
Start RPM is 1000rpm, so for 35° of boost, at an acceleration of 150rpm/° gives;

End RPM = Start RPM + (Boost timing x Boost ACC)
6,250 = 1000 + (35 x 150)

With 211, more less turbo and more boost seems a good way to go, as the turbo engages differently to the 119. Putting it simply having more boost, with a shorter acceleration will also aid the turbo kicking in quicker as a result (I explained the main differences between 211 and 119 earlier in the thread).

HiH
Ed

yes its 17.5 2S, thought I had it all well typed out. Thanks alot both of you.

Update
 

Hey gents,

Only new at tryingto update the software in the stock extreme and wondering if one of u would be able to give me a step by step on how to do it cause I'm completely lost and the instructions with the speedy didn't help me at all.. I know this many seem like amstuipd request cause frankly I think it is too... But any helP would be great...

check out cherry2blosts thread on hobbywing settings,it has a couple videos
very helpful.(see link)
just remember you need to make yourself administrator before it will allow you to down load the new fw

http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...ings-only.html

Thanks for that mate can in handy...

I'm running a 17.5 in aus on a longish track and just wanted to see if anyone has any suggestions on set up for settings in the esc

Which track?

Hey mate penrith...

Phil,

The track spans three netball courts and has a mixture of tight corners with a long back straight. Pictures of the track is at this link:

http://www.rctech.net/forum/9123273-post938.html

Regards,

Calvin.

Wow... Thats a pretty decent temp layout!

I usually keep my ESC setup pretty similar and adjust FDR

Start - 4000
Boost - 40
Turbo - 25
Timing acc - 300rpm/deg (Starting point... Lower i needed and if temps allow)
Turbo Slope - 6/0.1 (starting point - Very safe... Increase if temps allow!)
Delay - 0.2

FDR will be the key... Depending on motor probably around 5.5 - 6.0

When do you run there? And how often? I'm interested!