Lets not rush them. If they have been reading the FoRuM's, then they will know what everyone wants.


Cheers,
Shawn.

mr irgo... better u give some review of 211 n 213...

Hi Steliosh, try setting Reverse to 100%, Brakes to 100% even if you do not use brakes, ask anybody who was at West London Last Monday I was locking up all four wheels on the Straight. Also the 4 Part upgraded power cap seems to do wonders for the brakes too.

We have them on website and I will even post it to you free to Greece lol just send me a PM and I will send you a PayPal request otherwise you get charged postage on the site.

http://www.racersinexile.org.uk/High...0_2750527.aspx

Ooh I nearly forgot, don't forget to set your radio at 100% End points for the Throttle and Brakes and once it is setup to the ESC then advance both settings to 105%, seems as they warm up the end point wander a tiny bit, always works for me, I kid you not I can lock up all four wheels on CARPET !!!!

Thanks, Stuart!
I actually "found" my remedy for the brakes, by shortening the gearing!
From 6.1:1 I went as short as 7.5:1 and will try 8.1:1.
That change gave me all the brakes I didnt have!!!!

But the 4-caps are a good idea, indeed!!!!

Edit: I am familiar with the setting up of the ESC, even though my radio goes as far as 100%, and not over it, I have never had a problem with end points wandering... I always set forward and rev. brakes at 100, even though I use forward/brake.
Good old Futaba FF3, on 2.4Ghz Corona module.

Interesting discussions about higher fdr giving more brakes, any of you guys tried running a bigger spur and bigger pinion and keeping the same fdr and seeing if that gave more brakes when compared to smaller spur/pinion?

I ran outdoors at West London with my Evo V, running 13.5 on 518 SW everything maxed out, Start RPM 4000, setting 15 at 1000, running 7.5FDR car was ballistic brakes were awesome, people seem to forget that the Hobbywing 13.5's love to have the arses revved off of them, using Data Logger thing was topping out at 48,000 RPM and was stupid quick, was able to pick car up by the motor after so it passes the temp test, try it is bloody quick on shorter gearing.

Please send me the new software
my mail adres is jorydeswart @ gmail.com
i've got a Ezrun 60A esc ( v2 ) and a Ezrun 5.5t brushless engine

Truth is to get the shorter FDR, I changed from 81 spur to 87...
Hmmm... interesting idea!

My combinations were:
81/33 FDR 6.1
81/30 FDR 6.8
87/29 FDR 7.5
And I intend to go as "low" as
87/27 for FDR 8.1
We will see!
Edit: remember I am talking of a 1/5 scale motorcycle, the Thunder Tiger SB5, here, with one (rear!) wheel drive and rear wheel brake only! The SB5 can only accept 81 and 87 spurs.
My other combination of Xerun 60A was on my older bike, the KP10e, same scale, 32DP gears, definitely smaller spur at 54T, pinion 24T.
Inner ratios are quite similar: 2.50 ratio for the belt and pulleys of the SB5 and 2.45 for the chain final drive of the KP10e.

power caps
 

just got a 2nd xtreme stock today but also ordered the 4 capacitor thingy!!

as i now have a spare 2 cap one, can i connect that to my other esc that only has 2 currently installed on it, taking that upto 4 and will i get any noticeable difference?

I think shorter gearing gives the motor more leverage, allowing the motor to more easily change the cars speed = faster acceleration and stronger braking

Yes, but I think the question relates to two different combinations of spur/pinion which yield the same FDR. Is there a difference? I would struggle to imagine there would be, but maybe someone has some data to suggest otherwise.

Eg: 64 spur and 32 pinion give the same FDR as 80 spur and 40 pinion. Do they behave differently?

Back in the 90's we always strived to have the spur and pinions as closely sized as possible for a given FDR, becausewe were always told that we were reducing rotating weight, for example a 29 on an 72 30/75, 31/78, 32/81 meant that we were adding rotating weight in a pointless way. If you can forgive my 48 hour sleepless stretch ramblings and get the idea. with 1700SCRC/2000, 2400 NiCd's and 27T stock motors we only had a relatively limited amount of power so you needed to make the absolute best use of it. This is where ideas such as the Kyosho KX1 came to the fore as it reduced drive train drag by using one belt in place of two.

Anyway back to the teenies now and with endless power in both drive and batteries I personally no longer see that this is as important now as it used to be but it is always nice to get that feeling of the perfect mesh still using the most closely matched combinations.

As an aside, Spur / Pinion sizes are also now a useful tool for fine tuning the cars, weight balance as this allows the motor to be moved fractionally thus in today's lightweight chassis this may have a more profound effect than any perceived performance changes.

Have fun roll on finally getting to bed !!