Yesterday afternoon I melted my first ever motor in 25-odd years of racing and bashing all kinds of electric vehicles!
My settings were as I stated a couple of pages back:

I switched to a Trinity Duo2 motor, the night before that and tried to tame down the settings a bit:
Boost 35
Slope 18
Timing 20
Delay 0.2
ACC 200.

After only THREE minutes of running the bike stopped in the track... Hmmm... I walked towards it, it seemed like the esc switch was off... I tried it, it was on, switched on and off, nothing...
Back at the pits, I temp the motor (about 2-3 minutes later) it´s showing 117C! Ooops! Then I rotated the rear wheel, and the feeling I got was like the motor was turning inside liquid and there was none of that slight magnetic resistance you can feel even with a brushless motor... I installed another battery, switched it on, fans worked, steering worked, great! I push the throttle a bit and everything dies! Again!
At that instant it started raining cats and dogs, so I packed and went home. In the evening, I disassembled the motor, and found that something inside it had melted and then frozen again, not allowing the rotor to come out...
And then checked the batteries: Both showed one cell good and one cell gone south! Arghhhh!
I installed my previous Nosram motor, checked on the settings with the netbook and digital display box. I recalibrated the end points to my radio and realized a green light was blinking! Hmmm...
Light throttle, and it still blinked... hmmm... Overheat? But... everything is cold...
So, a change to a new hall sensor wire and everything was working in good order again...
My not so scientific conclusion is that the sensor wire was ready to beat the dust and had played me with my Nosram motor first, showing those high temps, then killing my Trinity and two good batteries...

Any thoughts?

No set date as yet but it will be this year .

Because this thread is more alive then the 120a/1S thread, I ask my question here.

To the ones who really know, does the HW 120a/1S ESC, have a problem with the SANWA M11X hrs (High Responce) setting? Or should I use the slower normal setting from my transmitter?

Because the "hrs" setting is only for digital servo's the HW ESC should not have a problem with it, I think, but I just want to be sure.

SHR should work (I use), but nt SSR (only for Sanwa Hardware)

your DRRS...? here we found Z5 motor tend to goes higher temp when we put the DRRS at max... for the time being we use 3 only... we should hear others thought...

I forgot to mention that, you' re right. DDRS was 7, now to 6, and hoping!

Thanks.
SHR it was, your correct.
Ehhmm, I also have set it to SHR, and yes it works, combined with the rx451 receiver.

I'm asking it because i've had 2 incidents where i was running full speed (100+kmh) and found a delay in my brakes, and yes that's exactly where you don't want to have this delay..... :lol:
Maybe it had to do with a cold motor, because both times it was at the beginning of a run....
FW is 101224... (very good and i mean VERY GOOD power combined with LRP X12 motor :D )

Maybe I have to try FW 211 or 213.... but I like 1224 a lot.....

Wondering is someone uses the lpr 10.5 stock spec motor with the xtreme stock, would like to have some advise on the config.

motor temp cutout
 

what happens when you have this function selected with a HW or another motor with temp sensor? Does the car just stop completely, or crawls slowly?

I think it's esc temp only, it stops.

Edit: was thinking about lipo cut.

I ordered a Justock today, been wanting one for a while now, looks so nice and small, my old 60A V2.0 looks oversized, and it's not race legal anywhere...

I asked cherry this very question yesterday & I'm pretty sure he said it stops completely for a while & will then run for a bit & stop again etc. Although I could have that wrong( brain was still coping with advice on settings!!):D

Setup Advice
 

Hi all, I have a 120A V2.1 that I am hooking up to a Trinity/Epic Duo 3 17.5T.

Can someone advise me what sort of setting for boosted mode would be a good starting point? I am looking to start off with an FDR of about 6.0 for a 1/10 touring car. As our ambient temps (32C in the day) and track temps (50C in the day) here are rather high I was worried that the settings posted here may not be suitable for my application.

In addition can someone clarify if the TOTAL timing (turbo + boost) is 60 degrees for 211 Stock firmware? Reason being I see some setups posted here with 40 deg boost and 25 deg turbo (is there a reason for this)?

Thanks in advance.

The total advance for 211 FW is 64 Steps. You can have the total add upto more then 64, but only 64 will be applied.

If your worried about temp,then get one of the 17.5 TC setups,and take 10 steps of boost out of it, and start from there. Then slowly work your way up, watching your motor temps.

Shawn.

you might be right.