heck, then I wonder why they bought that particular product in the first place. Oh then they were wrong

*double post, browser problem*

Will do. I did flash speedo software twice already.

I dont know if its the same experience I have had with the HW's, but the problem was is to much timing in the motor. Once I back the timing off, either on the end bell of the motor, or in the software, the car operates properly for an entire run. Otherwise it would only complete 50-60 seconds of running before the car would loose 2-3 seconds per lap. (doing 10 second laps.)

Shawn

Thunder Tiger SB-5 bike, stock class, Nosram 17.5T (X11 equivalent), Xtreme Stock ESC with 211, FDR 6.13, weight 1905 gram.
settings:
Boost: 45
Slope: 18
Timing: 20
Start: 3000
Delay: 0.2
Timing ACC: 150
Lovely speed, lovely kick in the midrange, or out of slow corners, but... after 10-minute runs, the motor heats up to 100-102*C and the whole bike smells *that* electronic smell!
The ESC works with fan but the motor is buried deep inside the fairing, so no cooling aid is possible, neither fan, nor aluminum cooler...

Tried lowering the FDR to 6.36:1 but I just lost top speed and gained nothing in temps.
The 211 PDF states that to decrease motor temp do one or any of the 4:
Reduce timing
Increase boost start
increase turbo delay
reduce slope.
Any ideas to keep the good speed but lower the motor temp a bit, maybe?
What effect would have in top speed each of these four?

I would say try a longer Acceleration (200, 250) first, then try upping the start point a little. If that doesn't solve it, then start playing with the amount of timing, say 5 off the boost to start.
At least, it's what I'd look at first :lol:

Thanks a lot for the suggestions. I am going to try this way. Especially since I've sorted the suspension and steering and the bike is just fabulous to drive, it's a pity to have it potentially overheat.
In the meantime, I managed to squeeze a small fan right above the motor, taking power from the 4th slot in my 3-channel rx (the 3rd is the transponder), so this MAY also help somehow. Said fan was *stolen* from my old SP LPF1.1!!!

This was a lipo cut-off typa slow.

When the esc loses power for any reason whatsover you will always find out why when you study the basics and nothing to deep.

for example

Turn down the timing and see it has power again
lower your lipo cutoff as all batterys are built differently
use a higher c rating pack .

See what happens when you have extreme timing you also need an extreme power source like a high c rate battery .more timing more power source its simple and basic .

Running say a 10.5T motor with no turbo functions ok a 20c -30C is fine but going to a 10.5T with high timing and turbo well its common sense is your running as fast a mod motor so you need a higher continues c rating not burst.so there are many factors.
With batteries remember this common factor when buying a cheap lipo your always getting 10c less even though the battery states 30c .

Think about it this way i need to run a 500w light glode but i only have a 300w generator well it will work but it will not illuminate as much as a 600w generator right ?same with an esc it will not perform as it should with a low power sourse its simple.

Always go back to the basics when something goes wrong as from what i can see there is no way that there is something wrong with the software or the esc itself .

Basics guys.:nod::nod:

regards Angelo;);)

I was actually trying to get a lil discharge frm a full pack since we didn't run that day.

It was sensor wire for record. I Thought I readabout this.

\\

Usually a faulty sensor wire will cause the motor to cog and have less instant torque .But complete power loss no i cant see that happening .

I found out through experience that there are 2 major causes of the 'half-throttle' syndrome.

First, as mentioned by Angelo, is the quality of the batteries. I have cheap 20 dollar packs as well as race packs, and the problem only occurs when using the cheap packs. What happens is that the cheap packs show a much bigger drop in voltage under load, triggering the low-voltage threshold. This can occur even if the pack is fully charged, with low wind motors using high boost/turbo. If this is the case, what you can do is simply lower the low-volt threshold on the speedo, to 2.8V/cell or even switching it off. Of course, do keep a watch on run time as the possibility of over-discharging is higher. you will find that this solves the problem.

The second and more common cause is the sensor cable. check to see that the 6 small wires are intact, and the plugs securely attached. A good tip would be to buy the most flexible sensor cable you can find, because these take hits better, and last longer as the wire strands are more resistant to bending.

cheers :)

I was running boosted 10.5 for more than one season on 30c batteries that are 2yrs old and used every week and never had a problem and was as fast as anyone else, my son now uses those batteries in 17.5 boosted and is also just as fast as anyone. I have had a bad sensor wire slow my car to a crawl also the sensor board in the motor can go and the same can happen.

This time I was loosing boost instead of the slow crawl. But I saw no slow crawl again.