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Originally Posted by maxg123456
(Post 7483914)
Anyone who's interested in a good setting for rubber tires indoors I have come accross this setting with a 13.5.
Motor - GM 13.5 with stock timing. 9 - 8 12 - 9 13 - 1 14 - 3 15 - 5 Working out what these settings are actually doing, my cars starting and ending rpms (before turbo kicks in) is 3,000 to 17,400rpm. Even on a small carpet layout, the car exiting a fast sweeper onto a small straight is doing around 18,000rpms! How I work these settings out - Timing punch (15) setting 5 is 700rpm increment as per PDF. Boost (9) is setting 8 (21 degrees) so 700 x 21 = 14,700 then add timing start (3000) = 17,400rpm. This is before the turbo kicks in! The car is doing 23,300rpm with turbo and yet a 13.5 motor can easily manage 70,000rpms at full chat with this software. Even with a 13.5 I find it maddening that some people out there are setting this esc with timing punch 1 and start 7500rpm for example. That would mean the timing kicks in between 7500rpm and 11,700rpm before turbo timing! That is insane LOL. The car accelerates to top speed in 1 second, making the car on a technical layout burn out rubber tires out in a few minutes! I had this in the past with the Mamba Max Pro and it's god awful set like this and I know the GM also doesn't work well either set like this, so I presume this esc works the same way. I found having a long timing ramp to be far more helpful to getting consistentcy and laptimes as the car progressively accelerates. You only need to look at the Tekin and GM guys to see how wide a timing ramp they use. Starting the timing lower also gets rid of the kick when the timing starts I find. I don't understand how you calculate the ending 17.400rpm and also how do you know that turbo kicks in after the end rpm.Could you expain please? |
Originally Posted by Born2Run
(Post 7486766)
Hi max
I don't understand how you calculate the ending 17.400rpm and also how do you know that turbo kicks in after the end rpm.Could you expain please? Their examples with boost and turbo - Example #A 4500 RPM /200 RPM/° 12° 7° - 8300 RPM Example #B 6000 RPM /300 RPM/° 15° 4° - 11700 RPM 12+7 x 200 = 3800rpm + 4500rpm start = 8300 rpm 15+4 x 300 = 5700rpm + 6000rpm start = 11700 rpm As far as I know, this works a simillar way to other escs. The start and end ranges can also be worked the same way if you take the degrees of turbo off the calculations above. |
So 17.400 was a typo thats why im confused. The right ENDrpm is 17.700.
Thanks Max |
Ive been reading your suggestions on the timing punch and with people having it set to put the boost in to quick.
Ive also been testing this a lot at my local track and ran at WLRC, now for WL I agree that a less aggressive curve (higher number 15) gave a much smoother motor with greater top end. however on our small track at home (SHMCC - dont know if you have raced it), the straight isnt that long - and using a more aggressive curve allows the motor to accelerate quicker, if I set 15 any lower than 3 (4,5, etc) the motor isnt using much boost due to the short straight. However its worth noting that I am using 9000 as my start RPM, so using a lot of the non-boost for the first 1/3 of the straight. Interestingly if i set my RPM delay to 10500, then its boosting just after half way and is slower because of this down the straight. Settings for my 13.5 are: FDR: 7.2 4:8 9:7 12:8 13:5 14:2 15:2 This gives wicked topend and acceleration down the straight (because its quite short). However you have intrigued me to try setting 13 down to 1 or 2 and give it a less aggressive timing curve, might give it a go tonight if i get time. PS. when your calculating your end RPM - because you are using a full throttle delay - the boost wont be kicking in as low as 3000, as im sure the motor will be reving higher than 3000 when the throttle delay is met. so it might infact be higher? |
Originally Posted by Born2Run
(Post 7487486)
So 17.400 was a typo thats why im confused. The right ENDrpm is 17.700.
Thanks Max |
Originally Posted by geubes
(Post 7487489)
Ive been reading your suggestions on the timing punch and with people having it set to put the boost in to quick.
Ive also been testing this a lot at my local track and ran at WLRC, now for WL I agree that a less aggressive curve (higher number 15) gave a much smoother motor with greater top end. however on our small track at home (SHMCC - dont know if you have raced it), the straight isnt that long - and using a more aggressive curve allows the motor to accelerate quicker, if I set 15 any lower than 3 (4,5, etc) the motor isnt using much boost due to the short straight. However its worth noting that I am using 9000 as my start RPM, so using a lot of the non-boost for the first 1/3 of the straight. Interestingly if i set my RPM delay to 10500, then its boosting just after half way and is slower because of this down the straight. Settings for my 13.5 are: FDR: 7.2 4:8 9:7 12:8 13:5 14:2 15:2 This gives wicked topend and acceleration down the straight (because its quite short). However you have intrigued me to try setting 13 down to 1 or 2 and give it a less aggressive timing curve, might give it a go tonight if i get time. PS. when your calculating your end RPM - because you are using a full throttle delay - the boost wont be kicking in as low as 3000, as im sure the motor will be reving higher than 3000 when the throttle delay is met. so it might infact be higher? Interestingly your boost (9 - 7) is set to 18 deg, rather than the max 21 deg boost. I'd go to setting 9 - 8 and put 15 - 3 (or 4). At the moment your car is set with 9,000 to 14,400. If you just went from 9,000 to 3,000 start the car would be doing 3,000 to 8,400. That would be very hard to drive, especially indoors. I have no idea about outdoors to be honest. I don't know whether i'm throttle happy, but my rubber tires will not stay in shape on my xray 009 for more than 15 laps with an aggressive setting on a small indoor track. 3,000 to 14,550 might be a good setting for you, which is this setting Try this on your short track - FDR - 7.0 9 - 8 13 - 1 15 - 4 I just would like to know how it compares to 9,000 to 14,400 and if the motor in fact gets cooler, because it did for me. It also should be quicker too. |
@maxg123456
Well I raced again last night and did the following changes: 9: 8 13: 4 (7500) 15: 4 which gives me a boost range of: 7500 - 22900 when making this change my lap time dropped from 14.69 - 14.48, but the motor was still the same temperature, so it was quicker but just as warm. Im going to continue making the ramp rate less and try lowering the start rpm to suit the track, mayb try something like 13: 3, 15: 5 next. |
vid of the race from last weekend. My car is the blue one with yellow stripes in second on the first lap. I was the only one using the HW with the new software, the rest are Tekins. I started with the recommended setup, but I think it is still too hot, so might need to reevaluate the start/end RPM. Regardless, it can definitely run head-to-head with the RS. Can't wait for the new super stock edition.
Please don't mind the bobbles here and there lol.
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Originally Posted by geubes
(Post 7492039)
@maxg123456
Well I raced again last night and did the following changes: 9: 8 13: 4 (7500) 15: 4 which gives me a boost range of: 7500 - 22900 when making this change my lap time dropped from 14.69 - 14.48, but the motor was still the same temperature, so it was quicker but just as warm. Im going to continue making the ramp rate less and try lowering the start rpm to suit the track, mayb try something like 13: 3, 15: 5 next. 9 - 8 13 -1 15 - 5 3000 - 17700 (or 3000 to 23300 with turbo) Ill let you know how it went. |
Hi, need to know what i the best 10.5T motor suite with HW120a esc?? Tekin motor of Xerun motor???
It seems that Tekin Redline 10.5T have 4500KV but Xerun 10.5T only 3200KV. My friend using Tekin RS Pro esc combo with this Tekin Redline 10.5T have 4500KV. His car is fast. I tried his car before. We r using same car Xray T3. Can I bit him if I use combo Xerun 120a with Xerun 10.5T? Or should I match it with Tekin Redline 10.5T??? Need everybody opinion on this before I buy either or this motor. Need to know esc setup if I use Tekin motor of Xerun motor?? Tq. |
Originally Posted by Afazli79
(Post 7498698)
Hi, need to know what i the best 10.5T motor suite with HW120a esc?? Tekin motor of Xerun motor???
It seems that Tekin Redline 10.5T have 4500KV but Xerun 10.5T only 3200KV. My friend using Tekin RS Pro esc combo with this Tekin Redline 10.5T have 4500KV. His car is fast. I tried his car before. We r using same car Xray T3. Can I bit him if I use combo Xerun 120a with Xerun 10.5T? Or should I match it with Tekin Redline 10.5T??? Need everybody opinion on this before I buy either or this motor. Need to know esc setup if I use Tekin motor of Xerun motor?? Tq. I use the following for indoors, but lowering FDR a bit might make it good outdoors. FDR - 7.00 9. 8 12. 8 13. 1 14. 3 15. 5 (key to keeping temps down and making timing ramp long, so smooth power delivery). Keep an eye on motor temps every 2 mins or so. Dont let it go over 160F. |
Maybe silly question. How to turn off turbo for 0 degree timing racing regulations?
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3 Attachment(s)
Just like to thank HobbyWing for providing a demo unit of the new Extreme Stocks speedie, a budget priced mid level speedie, rated down to 8.5t
It runs the same software in a much smaller case, its a neat little unit, with a 2 cap board, much easier to mount than the Version 2 units. Had some very nice performance on the weekend, setting new track record by 4 seconds. Im not going to buy into the whole ESC dick measuring match, but it gives nice smooth power, crisp drag brake and awesome brakes. As most people know, i am a product slut, if its new and shiny i will end up trying one, and have used most on the market, and this is as good if not better than anything ive tried, add to that bargain basement suggested pricing, it will be a very popular litle unit, it will be available soon i believe. Some pics, sorry for phone quality pics, and dodgy wiring, but give you an idea of the unit. |
Brad, is it rated the same as HW120A or the 60A?
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Originally Posted by dameetz
(Post 7507456)
Brad, is it rated the same as HW120A or the 60A?
I understand its rated to a 8.5t So not as fully equipped as the 120 amp, but considering such a tiny proportion of racers run mod, not an issue. The event yesterday, on a smallish indoor track, fastest lap and race times were set in 10.5 :nod: |
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