you could try holding hte right and left arrow. that is basically what the set button does. reverse throttle does not make a difference

Adrian I am shipping my F zero out today from Calif. The led screen is broke and the left button is stuck in so I can't set it. Just wondering what the average turn around time is? Thanks

For Zero series replacements will go out the day old speedos come in.

We have had so few issues with the Rapidas that there is no pool of refurb speedos. Thus we are out of Rapida replacments now so Rapidas take 3-4 weeks to get to Japan and come back.

Thats awsome I have a couple friends wanting to get Q2's, I am trying to talk them into keyence for this very reason (the customer service). It is the f zero extreme. Its $50.00 for replacement?

Yea DeJer.Mayby a New Keynece for me?

Yeah is a flat $50 for non warranty repairs of Keyence speedos. The cost is the same whether a LED is out or its split in half :)

I just wanted to say that Keyence's customer service is excellent!!! I had a Rapida Pro glitch like crazy (absolutely no idea what was wrong with it.....al I know was that it glitched and would not program or work properly). Emailed Keyence and then sent it back to Japan, took in total about 10 days. Got back what appears to be a brand new one!!! One very happy customer. :D

Replacement now works perfectly!!! I'm so happy that I have my lovely PURPLE box back in my car now!!! :lol:

can someone post an attachment of a keyence rapida pro that is mounted on a 1/10th RC?? thanks :p

because as i can see it in pictures the esc is kinda big. :weird: Anyway, how is it compared to any other esc's youve used before you changed to your Rapida PRO? :nod:

v7.1 is big :D GMv12 is nice but needs speedy fingers to program it imo. Rapida pro doesn't need cap (running stock) and it scrolls "Hello". More braggings are left to others :lol:

I use to run an LRP QC2 and I prefer the Keyence... Yes it has a slighty bigger footprint and is taller, but has no Cap and seems to product less comm wear then my old speedy.... ;)

Oh... and it's "BLUE" :nod: :nod:

I had a QC2, but the main problem is that the BEC was crap! I had a basic analog servo with a personal transponder, and I would glitch at full throttle AND lose laps because the quantum couldn't supply enough current.. I had to settle with a huge cap on my receiver, but when I fould a nice tiny 2-channel receiver that fit the car perfectly, it would take up the spot for my PT.. no good.. I then got a Rapida Pro, and I've never had a problem with power again. I can now buy a KO servo without hesitation!

Plus, I love the power limiter feature... I run it in my RWD mini, and I have zero traction problems when accelerating. If I need to adjust it, I do it right by the track with the body still on! No beeps and lights to decode, it's all there in all its digitally displayed glory.

Not dealing with caps or schottkys is also a great bonus.

I later traded the QC2 for a GTX.. now I have two great Speedos, but the Rapida's still my fave.. when you account for the GTX's huge cap, they both take the same space..

hey what wire can you use on the rapida pro non European connectors type?
also how much heavier is the esc than a gtx? oh and is there a website with the specs? cheers all

Should find all the info on here:

http://hobby.keyence.co.jp/english/speed/index.html

And you can buy them from here:


http://www.racing-cars.com/usa/searc...&templateid=12

Heatsink removal
 

I picked up a barely used Zero V Xtreme from a guy, and the ESC is in fantastic shape. He had installed the heatsink, but I don't really need to use it. I guess he removed the nameplate and epoxied it on because I cant really get it to move. I'm not really twisting too hard because I don't want to damage the ESC.

Anybody have a method for removing an epoxied heatsink? Am I out of luck?

Can you get a replacement nameplate for that ESC? From Schumacher maybe?

Any help is appreciated.

-andrew frosch