Ahh! one of my radios has 2.10.0 and that had the correct channel mappings. Is that because this version supports mt12 officially?

Channel mapping is set in Def chan order in RADIO SETUP.
TS : ch1=Throttle, ch2=Steering
ST : ch1=Steering, ch2=Throttle

I don't know if the default is "ST" or "TS" depending on the firmware version.
If you create a new model after changing the settings, the model will reflect the channel order(Existing models will not be changed).
https://cimg1.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rct...c261bde864.jpg

What were you really looking for?

mines DOA. I was a little suspicious of this package because it had a big ding in the box and the transmitter screen protector was altered. so annoying.

Where did you purchase from?

When I recieved my MT12 radio it had a lipo battery in the radio (not connected of course) I didn't have to use the battery tray that came with it. Just pluged the included lipo battery and held the power button to power it up. I have since returned it since I didn't feel like going for my Rocket science degree to figure everything out. I appreciate the features it is capabale of but there needs to be a quick and easy initial setup for this radio. At the price point it is budget conscious and new to the hobby will consider this radio and then be very frustrated with it as I was.
I loved the feel of the radio but lost patscience trying to figure it out.

I've been playing around with the advanced features on this radio and also stuck it into my 1/10 buggy to see how it feels. I still like it just as much driving my 1/10 car on my basement track as I did with my Mini-B.

But that's not the interesting thing - like I said I was playing around with the advanced features on this. I set up some mixes and global variables that limit steering rate based on throttle position. I'm calling it Throttle Limited Steering (TLS) and Brake Limited Steering (BLS). I made it so I can individually adjust how much steering is removed while braking and on throttle. For my basement track which is set up as a small oval ATM, I like -30% for braking and -20% for throttle. The amount of steering reduction is proportional to the throttle position and I've got a delay set up on the mix so as I go from throttle to braking and vice versa there's not a huge sudden spike in steering as the trigger crosses the neutral point. I also set it up so I can easily adjust how much steering is removed using the knobs.

I liked the way the car felt with this set up, but to be sure it was the TLS/BLS that I liked and not simply reducing overall steering throw I tested having these mixes setup with 100% steering dual rate and then I disabled the mixes and tested the car with the regular steering dual rate turned down. Using 100% dual rate with theTLS/BLS mixes enabled felt much better than simply reducing the steering dual rate across the board. The car felt more stable and confident under heaving acceleration and braking, but also felt like it still had more steering through the turns.

I spent a few minutes with my NB4 to see if I could set up something similar but eventually gave up. I haven't fully explored the NB4's mixing capabilities, but I'm fairly confident the same effect can't be achieved with it.

Have you ever tried a stability program like AVC, TSM or whatever it's called in FlySky radios?

This is very cool and one of the main reasons I decided to get an MT12. I have a vehicle with 4-wheel steering, which is accomplished with separate front and rear servos. I've been wanting to have something like you described above for reducing the steering travel just in the rear depending on how much throttle input is being given. Ideally, it would be even better to find a way to have telemetry for the motor RPM, and base the steering throw off of that.

No, I've never tried something like that. I've never been interested since they're banned in racing. But I imagine those systems are probably far more effective than what I've set up with the radio. I can still easily spin the car out if I'm too aggressive coming into or out of the turns no matter how I have the mixes set. And to be entirely clear, I feel like I oversold it's effectiveness a bit in my previous post. Yes it makes a difference that I can feel, but no it's not a major difference and no, I'm not even sure it makes me faster. I've had plenty of times in the past where a setup change made the car feel better to drive but was actually slower.

And since I'm sure someone will bring it up, no I don't consider my mixes to be a form of electronic driver's aid the way a gyro would be. Unlike a gyro, these mixes are entirely passive - it's not using any feedback from the car itself to alter my inputs and the same inputs on the radio always result in the same outputs on the receiver.

Thanks for the info. I think what would be useful in this thread is for people to post when a new official build is released so they can upgrade as needed. Or if there is a better MT12 forum/FB group to follow, we can all do that.

BTW, to update, I just tried to run the .bin from the SD and it asked to confirm to Flash, is this the right way to upgrade? I honestly couldn't get the BuddyTX thing to work (no officially supported releases for the MT12), or the hold T1+T4 "center" method to work.

amazon

i've played around with those quite a bit. they work really well for bashing. never tried it on a race track. You can change variables for throttle and steering. You can have it cut throttle and apply steering, apply steering with no throttle cut and everything in between. I use it for my 2x4 basher so my kid can drive it with more control.

Yes something not right with what you received. Return it. If you choose to buy on amazon be mindful of the seller. I'd get a refund and choose a different seller on Amazon or buy from a better source like Buddy RC or direct from Radiomaster.

I'm wondering if the radio is that configurable, if it'll be noticed by the regulatory bodies and banned, as that's encroaching into driver aid territory.

Regulatory bodies might disagree.