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294LikesU.S. Vintage Trans-Am [PICS & PAINT Discussion ONLY!!!]
01-30-2013, 07:05 AM
#3601
Check out the new Vaterra 1969 Camaro, and no this body is not 200mm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fup5F_VprB4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fup5F_VprB4
01-30-2013, 07:33 AM
#3602
Tech Fanatic
Check out the new Vaterra 1969 Camaro, and no this body is not 200mm
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fup5F_VprB4
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Fup5F_VprB4
01-30-2013, 07:47 AM
#3604
Tech Fanatic
01-30-2013, 07:55 AM
#3605
Beauty! Will the body be sold seperately and in clear, or just it just come in RTR in charcoal?
Even if it doesn't get USVTA approval, or approval takes a while, it would still be a great one to own for shelf/display time.
So, its 190mm?
How about the mirrors...are they flexible material, or something that should be removed before racing?
Follow up: I see a seperate body. Cool:
Even if it doesn't get USVTA approval, or approval takes a while, it would still be a great one to own for shelf/display time.
So, its 190mm?
How about the mirrors...are they flexible material, or something that should be removed before racing?
Follow up: I see a seperate body. Cool:
Last edited by IndyHobbies.com; 01-30-2013 at 08:34 AM.
01-30-2013, 08:58 AM
#3608
Beauty! Will the body be sold seperately and in clear, or just it just come in RTR in charcoal?
Even if it doesn't get USVTA approval, or approval takes a while, it would still be a great one to own for shelf/display time.
So, its 190mm?
How about the mirrors...are they flexible material, or something that should be removed before racing?
Follow up: I see a seperate body. Cool:
Even if it doesn't get USVTA approval, or approval takes a while, it would still be a great one to own for shelf/display time.
So, its 190mm?
How about the mirrors...are they flexible material, or something that should be removed before racing?
Follow up: I see a seperate body. Cool:
01-30-2013, 09:11 AM
#3609
Tech Fanatic
2013 SNOWBIRDS Pics & Videos
01-30-2013, 10:16 AM
#3610
01-30-2013, 01:29 PM
#3612
VTA bodies
Pretty much every available VTA body has made the podium at big VTA races. There is no reason to avoid a heavy body (either from thicker lexan or heavier paint job). You may need to adjust roll centers or lower the body on the body posts, but that doesn't mean you can't win with a heavy body.
I have personally done well at a few big VTA races running a very heavy 'Cuda on a TC4 weighing in over 1600 grams. There is no ideal VTA body or VTA body to avoid. Just pick the body you like, put a decent paint job on it and have fun.
I have personally done well at a few big VTA races running a very heavy 'Cuda on a TC4 weighing in over 1600 grams. There is no ideal VTA body or VTA body to avoid. Just pick the body you like, put a decent paint job on it and have fun.
01-30-2013, 08:59 PM
#3613
There is a reason none of the current HPI "VTA" bodies are 190mm - the HPI Vintage wheels have offset designed into them (Front have 3mm offset/rear have 6mm offset).
If you take an average TC running in VTA and measure the distance from the outside of the front left wheel to the front right wheel you should get a distance around 196mm. The rear should be a little over 200mm. This is the reason why HPI sells some of the RTR kits that have "VTA" bodies with 26mm wheels on the rear. Basically it is to keep rear tires from rubbing the body. For example with the 200mm wide HPI '65/'66 Mustang, you will get a bit of tire rub in the rear with the 31mm Vintage tires.
There is nothing to prevent any company from making their own plastic wheels that HPI Vintage tires will glue onto. Unfortunately if the wheels have less than 3mm offset, you could run into issues with the "VTA" tires rubbing on suspension parts like camber links or lower shock mounts.
It probably isn't a coincidence that the photos of the '69 body above are using low profile tires with probably zero offset front wheels and possibly 3mm offset rear wheels. Even then, there looks to be very little clearance between the body and the wheel. Not really ideal for racing conditions.
It may be possible to use thinner wheel hexes and get "VTA" tires to work with a 190mm body, but like I mentioned before it might interfere with suspension parts. Also, some Tamiya cars have a narrower track (less than 190mm), so it might be easier to get a 190mm body to work with that type of chassis.
Until someone purchases a body and tries it on their VTA car, we may never know how well it will work for VTA racing. I'm sure there is a market for these 190mm bodies, but I'll take a 200mm 'less than perfect race body' over a 190mm "scale appearance body" for my VTA chassis.
If you take an average TC running in VTA and measure the distance from the outside of the front left wheel to the front right wheel you should get a distance around 196mm. The rear should be a little over 200mm. This is the reason why HPI sells some of the RTR kits that have "VTA" bodies with 26mm wheels on the rear. Basically it is to keep rear tires from rubbing the body. For example with the 200mm wide HPI '65/'66 Mustang, you will get a bit of tire rub in the rear with the 31mm Vintage tires.
There is nothing to prevent any company from making their own plastic wheels that HPI Vintage tires will glue onto. Unfortunately if the wheels have less than 3mm offset, you could run into issues with the "VTA" tires rubbing on suspension parts like camber links or lower shock mounts.
It probably isn't a coincidence that the photos of the '69 body above are using low profile tires with probably zero offset front wheels and possibly 3mm offset rear wheels. Even then, there looks to be very little clearance between the body and the wheel. Not really ideal for racing conditions.
It may be possible to use thinner wheel hexes and get "VTA" tires to work with a 190mm body, but like I mentioned before it might interfere with suspension parts. Also, some Tamiya cars have a narrower track (less than 190mm), so it might be easier to get a 190mm body to work with that type of chassis.
Until someone purchases a body and tries it on their VTA car, we may never know how well it will work for VTA racing. I'm sure there is a market for these 190mm bodies, but I'll take a 200mm 'less than perfect race body' over a 190mm "scale appearance body" for my VTA chassis.
02-07-2013, 08:02 AM
#3614
Hey y'all,
I'm in the process of putting together a VTA car. I've been searching through the 240+ pages in this thread, but haven't seen much on how everyone is mounting their drivers. I'm interested in a realistic, scale looking driver and would appreciate it if some of you could share info/pics on how you mounted your driver. And if you don't mind, please tell us what kind of driver you're using.
Thanks in advance!
Tommy
I'm in the process of putting together a VTA car. I've been searching through the 240+ pages in this thread, but haven't seen much on how everyone is mounting their drivers. I'm interested in a realistic, scale looking driver and would appreciate it if some of you could share info/pics on how you mounted your driver. And if you don't mind, please tell us what kind of driver you're using.
Thanks in advance!
Tommy
02-07-2013, 12:30 PM
#3615
Tommy, I will post a pic in the other VTA thread as this is more for a show us your paint thread I think and less of the technical side. Go over to this thread for a picture...
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post11786436
http://www.rctech.net/forum/electric...l#post11786436