Team Orion Wasp REV

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Old 06-26-2006, 02:16 AM
  #121  
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From what I've seen, Rick and Josh's engines were moving at the Sedan Nats.
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Old 06-26-2006, 08:21 AM
  #122  
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Originally Posted by mtveten
Rick,

Let me start off by saying that I picked up one of you new waps engines a few weeks ago and and am very pleased with its performance. I would go so far to say that it is the only rc motor I have owned that lives up to advertising.

Currently I am experiencing what I would consider a severe problem, I am hoping you can help me with. This past weekend my glow plug failed I am unable to locate a replacement. I had my LHS place the #6 & #7 plugs on back order through Great Planes & Horizon 3 weeks ago but they have not shown up and without one I can't race the motor.

Is there anywhere I can buy one now, and if not when will they be available.

Mark
Call us here at Team Orion USA 714-694-2812. Ask for Traci or Joe and they will sell you what you need. We have all the plugs in stock.
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Old 07-01-2006, 07:20 PM
  #123  
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I ran the Peak Diablo .12 CRF engine (same as WASP REV)) today at the Canadian Nats 1/10 Touring and some how it feels no bottom end, this observation holds true for 3 other drivers too using WASP.

We tigthened the Centax, changed to a harder centax spring. I am now begining to think either i have lean out enough of the low end needle or this motor has no bottom end.

It shows that there is more speed one it is at the end of the straight. still wants to go.....

Looks like i have to gear it down. to accommodate the weaker low end... Does anyone have the same observations, any suggestions ?

We have one more qualifier in the morning tommorrow.
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Old 07-01-2006, 07:40 PM
  #124  
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Originally Posted by boytoys
I ran the Peak Diablo .12 CRF engine (same as WASP REV)) today at the Canadian Nats 1/10 Touring and some how it feels no bottom end, this observation holds true for 3 other drivers too using WASP.

We tigthened the Centax, changed to a harder centax spring. I am now begining to think either i have lean out enough of the low end needle or this motor has no bottom end.

It shows that there is more speed one it is at the end of the straight. still wants to go.....

Looks like i have to gear it down. to accommodate the weaker low end... Does anyone have the same observations, any suggestions ?

We have one more qualifier in the morning tommorrow.
There is absolutely no problem with the bottom end. With the proper setup this engine will drive away from any other engine from standing still. If your engine bogs and your carburation is right, then you are either running a clutch which engages too early, a pipe that does not suit the motor, or improper gear ratio.

You need your clutch to engage when the engine has reached it's optimal rpm range, which is higher in the case of the CRF engine. The CRF engine develops it's power later, meaning that the clutch has to engage roughly 5000rpm later. Obviously most clutches in their original form are not designed for this.

The stiffness of the spring and the gap between the clutch bell and the shoe are both important. Also remember that when you tighten a spring, the pressure increases exponentially. If you screw the spring adjust nut 2mm versus 1mm you will have a lot more than 2 times the pressure. By tightening a spring too much you reach a point where it does not fill it's spring function anymore so if you tighten a softer spring it's not the same as using a stiffer spring from the start.

The only one which gets quite close is the Kyosho clutch with these settings:

Kyosho White Clutch Weight - Drilled to 3.5mm
Kyosho 1.9mm Hard Spring at 1.40 setting
Gap = .50
Kyosho Grey Clutch Shoe

With these motors you really need to adjust the GEARING!!! Everyone remember, this engine likes to REV so be careful to not hand too much gear on it. Use a shorter gear ratio and the engine works much better!!!

Recommended gear ratio for most tracks is 7,38 en 1st speed and 5,09 in 2nd speed.

AFM
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Old 07-01-2006, 10:33 PM
  #125  
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afm,

Thanks for the info above. Just got the motor yesterday and I'm wanting to know what pipe would be good for this motor. I know Rick H. made a comment about the orion pipe but wanted to know if any other pipes would work.

Plugs will also be an issue, I know the mention a #6 orion plug, just wanting to know if I should try a #7 also?

Thanks
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Old 07-01-2006, 11:57 PM
  #126  
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Originally Posted by afm
There is absolutely no problem with the bottom end. With the proper setup this engine will drive away from any other engine from standing still. If your engine bogs and your carburation is right, then you are either running a clutch which engages too early, a pipe that does not suit the motor, or improper gear ratio.

You need your clutch to engage when the engine has reached it's optimal rpm range, which is higher in the case of the CRF engine. The CRF engine develops it's power later, meaning that the clutch has to engage roughly 5000rpm later. Obviously most clutches in their original form are not designed for this.

The stiffness of the spring and the gap between the clutch bell and the shoe are both important. Also remember that when you tighten a spring, the pressure increases exponentially. If you screw the spring adjust nut 2mm versus 1mm you will have a lot more than 2 times the pressure. By tightening a spring too much you reach a point where it does not fill it's spring function anymore so if you tighten a softer spring it's not the same as using a stiffer spring from the start.

The only one which gets quite close is the Kyosho clutch with these settings:

Kyosho White Clutch Weight - Drilled to 3.5mm
Kyosho 1.9mm Hard Spring at 1.40 setting
Gap = .50
Kyosho Grey Clutch Shoe

With these motors you really need to adjust the GEARING!!! Everyone remember, this engine likes to REV so be careful to not hand too much gear on it. Use a shorter gear ratio and the engine works much better!!!

Recommended gear ratio for most tracks is 7,38 en 1st speed and 5,09 in 2nd speed.

AFM

Thanks for the supplement information.. I came to the same conclusion that the clutch setting and lower gearing is very important too. I am determined to try it again tommorrow with lower gearing.
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Old 07-02-2006, 12:45 AM
  #127  
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Originally Posted by picco007
afm,

Thanks for the info above. Just got the motor yesterday and I'm wanting to know what pipe would be good for this motor. I know Rick H. made a comment about the orion pipe but wanted to know if any other pipes would work.

Plugs will also be an issue, I know the mention a #6 orion plug, just wanting to know if I should try a #7 also?

Thanks
Pipes: That's a mystery up till now....apparently it works best with Team Orion's own pipes, but the dyno tests were made with Novarossi's 2601 pipe and the engine made it's top HP readings. So far from factory testing you are better off using headers/pipes that favor low end torque, the engine will take care of the top end speed.

Plugs: Fabrice Ramella, the designer of the engine tried everything for 2 years. Many plugs can work but he was not satisfied with the life of them, so he decided to create the CRF plugs which are just supposed to have longer life and excellent ignition. For 25% and higher I would use either the #6 or #7. If you are running 16% you might want to run the #5 or #6. The #7 with 16% can be a bit too cold of a plug - I would only use this in 90F+ weather.

Of course Team Orion recommends their plugs but others will work. It is a good practice though to use the head button with Orion plugs, if you use a different plug then continue to use that plug with that button. If you want to switch back to a different plug or the Orion ones, use a new combustion chamber - The Orion plug is slightly different but when you tighten in another plug it works fine. It's just not a good practice to jump from one to another for tuning purpose and fatigue on the aluminum of the combustion chamber. They suggest the Orion plugs because they will produce slightly more power.

AFM
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Old 07-09-2006, 08:21 AM
  #128  
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Im currently using the CRF engine with the Nova 2601 pipe.I found that the low end is a little weak..probably due to my inexperience tuning.Can anyone out there tell me how much shall i tune the HSN and LSN to get a proper tuning.
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Old 07-09-2006, 01:13 PM
  #129  
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Wanted to let you guys know that a friend of mine is using a os #6 plug and he doesn't have any problems with the low end. He is using the Mugen Shimo pipe that was used in the x dyno testing. He loves the motor now!

I don't know if it is recommend but he says there is no issues with low end power now!

fyi
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Old 07-16-2006, 06:43 PM
  #130  
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Default New Wasp Motor Need Help !!!

Just got my new wasp installed into my RRR and started to break it in this weekend. I left the box settings on the motor and head shims as it came. I live in Louisville, Kentucky so the temp here has been in the 90's with high humidity. I was using the glow plug that came with the motor, a #6. I run 20% Trinity Platinum fuel with the RD Logics 6505 pipe. I couldn't get the motor to run at any lower than 230 degrees. The stock settings made the motor run very lean and I had to richen both the top and bottom to bring down the temp. Now the bottom end has a real bad bog after sitting for more than 5 seconds. After it cleans out it runs great, but no lower than 230. Any help would be appreciated !!!!!

Last edited by fastrcracer; 07-16-2006 at 09:00 PM.
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Old 07-30-2006, 03:55 AM
  #131  
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The engines normal running temp is 257, its in the manual
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Old 07-30-2006, 12:56 PM
  #132  
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Where are you guys buying this engine and at what price? I might invest in the engine/clutch/pipe...
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Old 08-08-2006, 10:42 AM
  #133  
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Hey,I am looking at one of these engines but I'm not a great engine tunner...are thse for me or am I waisting my time? Also what are the main difs between the comp and the Roar versions?
Thanks
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Old 08-11-2006, 05:38 PM
  #134  
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Riketsu - We have the engines in stock and we've been selling them at $280. The pipe/manifold/gasket/spring sets are $116 and the Clutch kits are $35 (I think), square wire spring is $14 and the shoes and weights are $18. You can e-mail us via our contact page on www.cefx.net. Soon we'll have www.cefxraceway.net up and running with a full line e-commerce hobby shop so you can check everything out and purchase things there.
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Old 08-11-2006, 11:14 PM
  #135  
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Ijust bought the Peak Diablo version of this engine but haven't run it yet, i will when my RRR evo arrived . My question is, the crankshaft has a little bit of play around the bearing(you can move it lateraly or vertically), is this normal? From what i ve experience with other engine,this looks like sign of worn crankshaft bearing.
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