Most of the people that I know of that do motors don't work on used motors. I also don't care what it does in stock form I only care about what it will do when it is modified.

If I have it by the next race I don't have to ship it to the guy, or if I get it real early in the week I may be able to ship it and have it delivered back to me by the race.

anyone running a TR on a track about 200-250 ft long? Any thoughts?

My budget ran short for nats and i need to know if theres even a point in me going cuz im gunna get motored all week.

oh, I got ya...

Just a note for you guys that want to mod a TR r-SPEC- if your motor man hasn't spent a LOT of time with the TR R-spec don't count on them being able to make a lot of extra power. I've learned from Ron that these motors don't respond to the "normal" mods like the italian motors. The torque curve on these motors is lower and they need different porting. I'm not sure if Ron's motor guy is willing to do work for other people but we can find out. If you would like to ask him yourself email Ron from www.kinetixrc.com .

Further info- if you are running typically short tracks then don't waste your money- the motor is awesome down low. It has TONS of low and mid range power. The only place it needs any work is high RPM. I'm VERY happy with the motor and wouldn't even think about buying something else.

one last note- for you guys that think a nitro motor needs all this bullshit break-in procedures with rich idle and crap... PLEASE. I don't have time to go into the specifics of why a race motor shouldn't be treated like that (which I can do later) but just start the motor, watch the temps, tune the idle, then ease into the high speed settings. Keep the racing temps around 220-230 the first few runs. DO NOT run the motor so rich it runs like crap- that HURTS a race motor. DO use a heat gun o to heat the head and block before you start it the first time. I've already run almost a half gallon of O'Donnell 30% through my motor and it still has so much compression it gets stuck where the starter box can't spin it- I have to back it up with my fingers to get it inbetween compression strokes.

Hey BigDog...great post...By your discription, I should love this motor as much as I did my original TR....with just a little more power!

I got a couple questions though. Did you have to do any additional shimming to the head to run the 30% nitro?

Also, what temp plug are you using with it, the P6 that came with it?

Thanks

-Darkseid

Dark- no I didn't shim the head at all. I'm using the R6 plug. I believe it's the Sirio R6, but pretty much the same as the P6. Just so happened I left the P6 at home so I used a new R6 that was in my box. It runs good, but I can tell by the idle characteristics that it could use a plug just a hair colder or hotter- not really sure without trying it.

Thanks for the response...

I'm getting mine next week. Great deal! OS has got to be the only thing Tower hobbies sells at decent prices! This is going to be my short track motor and maybe another one as a practice motor.
The only thing I'm concerned about is fuel consumption.

The TR R-Spec motor can hang on any large track the testing on this motor has had very good results on large tracks. The R-Spec can hang with any Italian engine. For the Nationals several drivers will be using the R_spec engine.

They aren't too bad, as long as your buying anything except a kit!

My thing with OS is reliability. My first year in nitro touring was all about one thing. Reliability! So last year I went with a 12 TR. It worked great. Was slightly under powered on the straight, but was awsome on the in field.

This year I wanted a little more power and was willing to sacrifice reliability a bit. BIG MISTAKE! I've missed more races because of engine problems this year, than I did all last season! Tuning and air leak problems were consistent with my Sirio.(original, not the new and improved EVO2). I even snapped the shaft on it!

So I'm getting back to basics.....my old reliable OS. I stuck my 12 TR back in after it had been in preserved storage for almost a year. Fired it up, readjusted it for 30% nitro (I ran 20% last year) and it was instantly more reliable than my engine this year.

Now comes my R-Spec. I'm hoping it will bring the reliability of OS with a little more 'Sirio like' power on the straight.<fingers crossed>

All I'm really hoping for is that the 11A carb is as easy to work with as my 10J was. Cause after working with my Sirio, I must say that so far, I'm not a big fan of true three needle carbs. Damned...low end needle....

It's just the carb on the Sirio. After you switch the carb out it's an awesome motor.

That's good to hear. I'm getting 37t ring gears for my car and I can't wait to drive the car at the regionals maybe with the OS.

Yeah, the improved carb on the EVO2 is much better. When it came time to replace the snapped shaft on mine, I looked at the $55 price tag, then the trouble I had with the engine, and I just passed on it.

You can even use an OS carb. Lunford racing makes an adaptor that slips over the neck of the carb then you insert the whole thing into the crankcase. That should give you reliability.