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Old 08-18-2005, 06:47 PM   #451
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wendellc1
Where can I find Cyrul's method and what's heat cycling?
Heat cycling is you have to cooled down the engine between 3-4 track runs and maintain the temperature at about 190-200 F. After that, you can set your engine to it's maximum power.
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Old 08-18-2005, 06:49 PM   #452
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Originally Posted by Hesky
this guys engine breakin method is well different to most, and I like his theory behind it. but I have a slight issue with opening the carburetor to full throttle and holding it there on a new engine that has mega pinch, I know the engine will be practically flooded with fuel and the rpm even at wot will be significantly low running that rich, but is it still safe to do it on a very tight engine?
What do you mean by traditional breakin method? Be sure you warmed the engine first to get some working temperature before the WOT method.
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Old 08-18-2005, 06:54 PM   #453
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Oh yes, and it is very recommended from every engine manufacturer to change your conrod after the break in process is completely done.
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Old 08-18-2005, 07:09 PM   #454
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniz24
New line of JP Racing Special Engines...
Is that a .12 engine? It looks like a 5 port. Do you have any information or pictures of the 3 port? I am getting one soon and I don't want to get the older version.
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Old 08-18-2005, 07:34 PM   #455
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Originally Posted by Racing4Evo
Is that a .12 engine? It looks like a 5 port. Do you have any information or pictures of the 3 port? I am getting one soon and I don't want to get the older version.
Yes it's the FX12 T-05 Modified Engine. The 3 ports is the same piston, underhead, etc. I'm not sure if all the JP FX12s newest batch will have this kind of modification. And from the very last batch only 1 pc of 5 and 3 ports has that nice JP signature on the sleeve
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Old 08-18-2005, 08:02 PM   #456
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniz24
What do you mean by traditional breakin method? Be sure you warmed the engine first to get some working temperature before the WOT method.
With tight new engines I usually pre heat the engine with a heat gun to allow the sleeve to expand slightly. b4 the engine has even rotated it is near operating temperature (If you have ever broken In an sts race engine you know this process is imperative)
by traditional I mean run the engine rich, not excessively to the point it nearly flames out and blip the throttle never exceeding half throttle for the 1st 6 tanks, I do the heat cycle b4 that of course. Basically just easy on the rpm initially.
yes, I'm just thinking about the excess stress on the conrod when the engine has a lot of pinch at tdc and is ran at WOT.
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Old 08-18-2005, 09:25 PM   #457
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hey gonzo, this is a rendering of a model jet engine I've just finished designing, even after playing around loads with powerful cad programs I still use paint, go figure
Hey you didn't turn GI on...
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Old 08-18-2005, 10:07 PM   #458
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I say finished designing, i meant nearly finished, haven't exported it to lightwave yet to do a little GI rendering magic
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Old 08-19-2005, 09:02 AM   #459
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I was able to ran 5 gallons yesterday. 2 tanks having the car idle on the starter box (factory setting at 190F) and 3 tanks at WOT at a very rich setting. One thing I am concern is the temp, using Josh's method, the engine ran cool at 120-135F at most. Before starting, I always bring the temp up to 150F, but even at WOT, the temp kept dropping. Does the extra fuel compensate for the low temp in this regard? Thanks.
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Old 08-19-2005, 12:16 PM   #460
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wendellc1
I was able to ran 5 gallons yesterday. 2 tanks having the car idle on the starter box (factory setting at 190F) and 3 tanks at WOT at a very rich setting. One thing I am concern is the temp, using Josh's method, the engine ran cool at 120-135F at most. Before starting, I always bring the temp up to 150F, but even at WOT, the temp kept dropping. Does the extra fuel compensate for the low temp in this regard? Thanks.
yes, your right 120 is very low for breakin, in the range of 150-165 is where you want to be, dont exceed more than 176.
Its not a case of compensating, you want to get the engine to a reasonable running temperature so all components have expanded to what they would while racing. try wrapping the cooling head with aluminium foil to reduce the cooling heads efficiency.

Last edited by Hesky; 08-19-2005 at 01:56 PM.
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Old 08-22-2005, 06:38 PM   #461
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Broken in the engine at the track on Saturday. After the 14th tank, I leaned out the engine to 180F (still very rich), and all I can say is...holly &h!t!. This engine feels like it can take out my EVO3 at this temp! Question: Is it better to keep the temp at 180F for a while during practice (if yes, for how long) and raise it up to 220F for a race?
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Old 08-22-2005, 07:27 PM   #462
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wendellc1
Broken in the engine at the track on Saturday. After the 14th tank, I leaned out the engine to 180F (still very rich), and all I can say is...holly &h!t!. This engine feels like it can take out my EVO3 at this temp! Question: Is it better to keep the temp at 180F for a while during practice (if yes, for how long) and raise it up to 220F for a race?
200-220 is the range you want to keep the engine at all the time now it is fully broken in (piston is just very slightly snug as it goes through tdc with the glow plug out right? dont just go by the amount of tanks run). bare in mind the engine will work at its most efficient when running at its designed running temperature which is around 200-220. Just try your best to keep under 220 of course.
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Old 08-22-2005, 09:12 PM   #463
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What Hesky said is good. It is always very recommended to keep your engine to cool down at least 30 minutes every 2-3 tanks of practice with approx 90% from it's optimum temperature. have a good race with JP Racing Engines.
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Old 08-24-2005, 09:05 AM   #464
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I ran the engine yesterday on the track and for some reasons, it didn't feel fast. I know my engine is still running rich at around 200F, but the power wasn't there. The pipe is spitting out a lot of smoke, but it is its 18-20th tank. Should it be fast by now? I still want to take it slow and run it for a couple more tanks at this temp. My friend's EVO3 was a lot faster at the track yesterday with a temp of around 220-230, so hopefully, I can catch up to him after my full break-in.
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Old 08-24-2005, 11:49 AM   #465
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wendellc1
My friend's EVO3 was a lot faster at the track yesterday with a temp of around 220-230, so hopefully, I can catch up to him after my full break-in.
Dont just assume his engine is faster than yours, does he have the same car as you? some chassis just have better transmissions (clutch, belt design etc..), and get the best out of any motor.
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