I won't comment anything if you still don't change your pipe. Well, at least to the one with a better shape LOL

If your car cuts off at WOT its usually because the engine is running way to lean, but you say its running more on the rich side. try a new plug, whats this about a "little bit rattling sound"??

hey gonzo, this is a rendering of a model jet engine I've just finished designing, even after playing around loads with powerful cad programs I still use paint, go figure

Can you give us the picture of your engine and the pipe especially?

Come on dude...... even with brand new pipe...... I think it's carburator setting things.

If you have a bent pipe it could be the source of the problems you described. If the pipe is bent badly your engine will never run right no matter how you tune it.

Are you sure? Come on bro... The first thing I complain is your pipe when we're at the shop. I assumed you still have a better one. Go give it a try

Ok, Jeff..... I switch new pipe and see what happen. Thx.

New line of JP Racing Special Engines...

Just bought a JP fully optioned .12 from Mugen's Direct website yesterday. Expensive engine, but great service never the less.

Need some suggestions about the break-in process of this engine. My usual procedures is:
(Heat the engine up b/4 starting up) Start the engine up and let the car sit on the starter box. I bring the engine temp to 160-170F by 3/4-full throttle at the factory setting, which is normally very rich. After 10 tanks going through the same process, I take the car out to the track and without changing any settings (very rich), I ran it for another 5 tanks. After the 15th tank, I start to lean out the engine to 200-220F and use it for practice for another 1/2-3/4 gallon. After that, I keep the engine at 220F for practice and 240-250F for racing.

Should I use this process for this engine?

Thanks

Nice, THe exhaust timming seem higher and the piston looks different too?
how is the performance?

I found Cyrul's method and combined with heat cycling procedure gives me faster break in, great performance result with longer lifetime for the engine.

Yes the piston head is cone shaped and also the button head. Didn't see much differences from the crankshaft's porting and timing.

Where can I find Cyrul's method and what's heat cycling?

Josh Cyrul + Heat Cycling : http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php

this guys engine breakin method is well different to most, and I like his theory behind it. but I have a slight issue with opening the carburetor to full throttle and holding it there on a new engine that has mega pinch, I know the engine will be practically flooded with fuel and the rpm even at wot will be significantly low running that rich, but is it still safe to do it on a very tight engine?

I'll have 3 new race engines to breakin next week, an new lrp team engine for my friend an rb mod and another jp mod .12, was just gonna do the heat cycle and traditional breakin method.