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Old 08-17-2005, 08:35 PM   #436
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I won't comment anything if you still don't change your pipe. Well, at least to the one with a better shape LOL
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Old 08-17-2005, 09:30 PM   #437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
What should I do if the engine become dead AFTER medium burst of full throttle. For examples, I give full throttle for 2 second acceleration, let go the gas for a corner, exit that corner and full throttle again but.... flame out.

Currently my engine is screaming little bit on the rich side at top speed ( the scream is not high pitch as usual.... little bit rattling sound ).

Is it the compression things ? Is it too rich ? What is probable cause if it still dies after I lean it ? Thx for your inputs !!
If your car cuts off at WOT its usually because the engine is running way to lean, but you say its running more on the rich side. try a new plug, whats this about a "little bit rattling sound"??

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hey gonzo, this is a rendering of a model jet engine I've just finished designing, even after playing around loads with powerful cad programs I still use paint, go figure
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Old 08-17-2005, 09:33 PM   #438
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
What should I do if the engine become dead AFTER medium burst of full throttle. For examples, I give full throttle for 2 second acceleration, let go the gas for a corner, exit that corner and full throttle again but.... flame out.

Currently my engine is screaming little bit on the rich side at top speed ( the scream is not high pitch as usual.... little bit rattling sound ).

Is it the compression things ? Is it too rich ? What is probable cause if it still dies after I lean it ? Thx for your inputs !!
Can you give us the picture of your engine and the pipe especially?
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Old 08-18-2005, 01:33 AM   #439
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniz24
I won't comment anything if you still don't change your pipe. Well, at least to the one with a better shape LOL
Come on dude...... even with brand new pipe...... I think it's carburator setting things.
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Old 08-18-2005, 01:39 AM   #440
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If you have a bent pipe it could be the source of the problems you described. If the pipe is bent badly your engine will never run right no matter how you tune it.
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Old 08-18-2005, 04:20 AM   #441
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Quote:
Originally Posted by asw7576
Come on dude...... even with brand new pipe...... I think it's carburator setting things.
Are you sure? Come on bro... The first thing I complain is your pipe when we're at the shop. I assumed you still have a better one. Go give it a try
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Old 08-18-2005, 04:28 AM   #442
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Ok, Jeff..... I switch new pipe and see what happen. Thx.
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Old 08-18-2005, 07:39 AM   #443
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New line of JP Racing Special Engines...
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Old 08-18-2005, 09:17 AM   #444
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Just bought a JP fully optioned .12 from Mugen's Direct website yesterday. Expensive engine, but great service never the less.

Need some suggestions about the break-in process of this engine. My usual procedures is:
(Heat the engine up b/4 starting up) Start the engine up and let the car sit on the starter box. I bring the engine temp to 160-170F by 3/4-full throttle at the factory setting, which is normally very rich. After 10 tanks going through the same process, I take the car out to the track and without changing any settings (very rich), I ran it for another 5 tanks. After the 15th tank, I start to lean out the engine to 200-220F and use it for practice for another 1/2-3/4 gallon. After that, I keep the engine at 220F for practice and 240-250F for racing.

Should I use this process for this engine?

Thanks
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Old 08-18-2005, 11:21 AM   #445
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniz24
New line of JP Racing Special Engines...
Nice, THe exhaust timming seem higher and the piston looks different too?
how is the performance?
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Old 08-18-2005, 11:28 AM   #446
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wendellc1
Should I use this process for this engine?

Thanks
I found Cyrul's method and combined with heat cycling procedure gives me faster break in, great performance result with longer lifetime for the engine.
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Old 08-18-2005, 11:31 AM   #447
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kitracer
Nice, THe exhaust timming seem higher and the piston looks different too?
how is the performance?
Yes the piston head is cone shaped and also the button head. Didn't see much differences from the crankshaft's porting and timing.
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Old 08-18-2005, 12:03 PM   #448
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Quote:
Originally Posted by daniz24
I found Cyrul's method and combined with heat cycling procedure gives me faster break in, great performance result with longer lifetime for the engine.

Where can I find Cyrul's method and what's heat cycling?
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Old 08-18-2005, 12:34 PM   #449
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Josh Cyrul + Heat Cycling : http://www.cefx.net/tips/nitro/break-in/index.php
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Old 08-18-2005, 05:37 PM   #450
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this guys engine breakin method is well different to most, and I like his theory behind it. but I have a slight issue with opening the carburetor to full throttle and holding it there on a new engine that has mega pinch, I know the engine will be practically flooded with fuel and the rpm even at wot will be significantly low running that rich, but is it still safe to do it on a very tight engine?

I'll have 3 new race engines to breakin next week, an new lrp team engine for my friend an rb mod and another jp mod .12, was just gonna do the heat cycle and traditional breakin method.
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