R/C Tech Forums

Go Back   R/C Tech Forums > General Forums > Nitro On-Road > Onroad Nitro Engine Zone

Reply
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Old 09-02-2004, 09:31 AM   #211
Tech Elite
 
dameetz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: The Sky
Posts: 2,542
Default JP FX12 5

My LHS has just got 2 of this engine in stock. I m really temted to get one. How do I know if it is the one that came with the internal ceramic bearing? Does it have a specific code no for it? Lastly is this engine worth the price because I ve been reading on this post that some are not happy with it.

Thanks1
__________________
Dudududududuuuuuu.....
dameetz is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-02-2004, 08:36 PM   #212
Regional Moderator
 
daniz24's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: D-Square Racing
Posts: 3,189
Default Re: JP FX12 5

Quote:
Originally posted by dameetz
My LHS has just got 2 of this engine in stock. I m really temted to get one. How do I know if it is the one that came with the internal ceramic bearing? Does it have a specific code no for it?
You should find some yellow sticker on the side says "Ceramic Bearing"
daniz24 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-08-2004, 11:25 PM   #213
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Auckland,New Zealand
Posts: 590
Default leak

I have just lookes at my car (after it has been sitting for about 4 days) and noticed that the after run oil that i put in my jp has leaked from the bottom of the case. Could this be the cause of my Very Slow JP? Maybe an air leak?
Brett.w is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2004, 01:32 AM   #214
Tech Master
 
ziggy12345's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jun 2003
Location: West Midlands, UK
Posts: 1,596
Default

Take the engine out and remove the filter and the exhaust. attache some fule tube and block the carb inlet and the exhaust with your fingers and blow in the tube very hard.

Check for leaks with soapy water. The front bearing can leak a bit but not much

Cheers
__________________
Dedicated RC Car Speed Site

http://www.fast-rc.co.uk/forum/index.php

Sponsored by:
Norfolk and Chance
ziggy12345 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-09-2004, 04:32 AM   #215
Tech Elite
 
Taylor-Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne OZ
Posts: 2,066
Default Re: leak

Quote:
Originally posted by Voodo_Magic
I have just lookes at my car (after it has been sitting for about 4 days) and noticed that the after run oil that i put in my jp has leaked from the bottom of the case. Could this be the cause of my Very Slow JP? Maybe an air leak?
The after run always leaks out the front bearing on our NSR. That's pretty normal, I'd think, 'cos I usually put plenty in.

What are the symptoms of your "slow" engine?
Taylor-Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2004, 02:58 AM   #216
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Auckland,New Zealand
Posts: 590
Default Re: Re: leak

Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
The after run always leaks out the front bearing on our NSR. That's pretty normal, I'd think, 'cos I usually put plenty in.

What are the symptoms of your "slow" engine?
This engine has absoultly no punch or top end it seems to struggle to get to top revs as if the engine is running slow. I have a RRL3 and it eats this engine for breakfast. My only thought if it not the small leak in the front of the bearing is that i have run it in incorrectly.

My run in process was

1Litre of 5% nitro with castor oil using the W.O.T method
then on to my race fuel which is
16% nitro synthetic oil
I have been told that this way shouldnt make it run bad.
Or could it be my plug i am using a 6tc nova plug?
Brett.w is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2004, 03:13 AM   #217
Tech Elite
 
Taylor-Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne OZ
Posts: 2,066
Default

What makes you think there is a air leak?
From your description, it sounds very much like it's too rich.
Taylor-Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2004, 03:39 AM   #218
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Auckland,New Zealand
Posts: 590
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
What makes you think there is a air leak?
From your description, it sounds very much like it's too rich.
I just thought that it might be an air leak when i saw the oil come out the front

As for running it too rich i cannot lean out the top needle because when i do it wont accelarate it like tries to stall
Brett.w is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2004, 03:50 AM   #219
Tech Elite
 
Taylor-Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne OZ
Posts: 2,066
Default

Nah, doesn't sound like an air leak to me.
When you say "struggle to get to top revs" that indicates it's too rich.
It may be too rich on top and on the bottom needle - impossible to tell from here.
I'd take it to a friend or your LHS to get it sorted. It doesn't sound like there is anything fundamentally wrong with it.
Taylor-Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2004, 03:58 AM   #220
Tech Addict
 
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Auckland,New Zealand
Posts: 590
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Taylor-Racing
Nah, doesn't sound like an air leak to me.
When you say "struggle to get to top revs" that indicates it's too rich.
It may be too rich on top and on the bottom needle - impossible to tell from here.
I'd take it to a friend or your LHS to get it sorted. It doesn't sound like there is anything fundamentally wrong with it.
Thanks for your advise do you have one of these and what are your carb settings?
Brett.w is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-10-2004, 04:05 AM   #221
Tech Elite
 
Taylor-Racing's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2002
Location: Melbourne OZ
Posts: 2,066
Default

No, don't have a JP. We use an NSR at the moment but they're all basically the same.
No idea what our needle settings might be - they change every race day.
If you don't have a factory starting point, I'd start with the standard Nova settings (what ever they are)
Do a search on the engine zone - it's bound to turn it up as it's been asked many times.
Taylor-Racing is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-05-2004, 06:53 PM   #222
Tech Fanatic
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: Melbourne, FL
Posts: 787
Trader Rating: 2 (100%+)
Send a message via AIM to kreidel
Default

Does the JP FX 03 Mod need extra shims for 30%?
kreidel is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 08:40 AM   #223
afm
Tech Master
 
afm's Avatar
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Location: lima-peru
Posts: 1,807
Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Brett.w
Thanks for your advise do you have one of these and what are your carb settings?
Hope these comments come in handy for you. Got them at Trinity's web site, and I think they are a very clear carb tuning guide.

AFM


All carburetors are factory set on a flow bench. For this reason it is recommended that you count the number of turns on the low and high end needles before you use the engine. All carbs are not the same, but are set to flow the same amount of air and fuel. Up to a one half turn difference can be had on factory carburetor settings on each needle. A two micron difference in the needle taper can make the setting up to 1/2 turn different from another carb. It is also not recommended not to adjust the mid-range needle setting on until you are completely comfortable with carburetor adjustment.
How big is a micron? There are 25,400 microns in one inch. This dot (.) is approximately 1/64 of an inch wide and equals 615 microns. It doesn't take much to off set a needle setting.

Novarossi based engines (General Carb Settings)
Low Speed: 3.25 turns out
High Speed: 4.75 turns out
Mid-Range: Flush with the carb body

What is the "Top End" needle?
The "Top End" needle is the large needle valve that adjust how much fuel is delivered to the engine from half throttle to full throttle.

What is the "Bottom End or Low end" needle?
This needle adjusts how much fuel the motor gets at idle and at the first crack of the throttle.

What does is mean when people say my motor is "too rich?"
This means that there is too much fuel being supplies and not all of it is being burned off in the combustion cycle.

What does it mean when people say my motor is "too lean?"
This means that the motor is not getting enough fuel. This can make a motor difficult to start or make it run too hot.

How do I know if my motor is "too lean?"
A motor that is too "lean" will not stay running. Usually will flame out at full throttle or not idle. Temperature is one way to check this. Another way is to examine the plug. The element in the plug will turn close to "white" and be dry if the motor is too lean. This condition is very damaging to the motor since the motor relies on fuel for it's oil supply as well.

How do I know if my motor is "too rich?"
A motor that is too "rich" will spit raw fuel out of the exhaust pipe and never really reach top RPM or "clear out" meaning to not burn all the fuel. This motor will usually idle OK but will bog and die the second the throttle is applied if the low end is "rich" or never reach full RPM is the "top end" is rich.

What does it mean when people say I have to adjust the "bottom end?"
This means you need to adjust the low-speed setting on the carburetor.

How do I adjust the idle?
The idle is adjusted by turning the idle screw on the carburetor. This can be found by looking at the manual that came with the motor. Turning the screw in will increase the idle speed and turning the screw out will decrease the idle speed. These screws are simply a stop for the slide or barrel of the carburetor.

Why does my car die after only idling for a few seconds?
This usually means the low-speed needle (i.e. bottom end) is too lean. Try turning the low speed needle out (counter clockwise) about 1/8 of a turn at a time until the car will idle.

Why does my car die right after I accelerate from a stop?
This again is usually a lean condition on the "bottom end." Try "richening" up the low-speed needle by turning it out 1/8 of a turn at a time until this condition stops.

How far should I turn the needle valve when I make adjustments?
Any needle valve should only be adjusted in 1/8 turn increments. These are very sensitive adjustments.

Are there "starting" points for my needle valve settings?
Always follow the manufacture's recommendations.

How would I know if I have an air leak in my carburetor?
This is a tough one. An air leak will make the motor very very difficult to tune. Usually the idle will be inconsistent and the motor will generally not want to perform consistently. This is a difficult condition to detect.

When I rev my car it seems to idle at a higher RPM for a few seconds then settle down. Why?
This could be from an small air leak in the carb, or from a motor that is running a bit too lean.

What type of oil should I use on my foam air filter?
We suggest any "tacky" petroleum based oil. Motorcycle shops sell this for ATV's and dirt bikes air cleaners. Don not use silicone based oils. K&N air filter oil is specifically made for K&N filters and is not good for use on foam filters.

How do I read my plug?
Actually when a new plug wire just goes slightly gray after a 5 or 10 minute hard run, it means your very close to an optimal horsepower tune, but be careful the next step is TOO LEAN!
Rule of thumb:
1} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug wet, with like new shiny wire = rich side of optimum power 85%
2} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug starting to dry and wire starting to gray = Very close to optimum power 95%
3} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire totally gray but not distorted optimum power 100%
4} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire distorted = slightly lean DANGER!
5} Wire and surrounding bottom of plug dry, wire broken and distorted or burnt up = extremely lean possible engine damage!

Note: You can only "Read" your plug in a nearly new state [Wire like new and shiny] A gray plug can still operate well, but after it has totally gone gray performance can start to fall off. To test just put in a new plug and if there is no difference in performance save the gray one or put it back in. If your engine does not feel or run right try a new plug before making major tune change's
afm is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-06-2004, 11:55 AM   #224
Tech Prophet
 
Randy Caster's Avatar
R/C Tech Elite Subscriber
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: Costa Mesa, CA
Posts: 16,675
Trader Rating: 46 (100%+)
Default

Where can I find the best price on a FX 21 B-5T in or outside of the states?
Randy Caster is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 10-08-2004, 02:11 PM   #225
ND
Tech Adept
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 103
Default

If your looking for an engine supplier outside of the US then try this one, I've always had great service from them.

shop.the-border

Laters
ND
ND is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
.:Go Engines vs. Jammin Engines:. lanerbrainer205 Nitro Off-Road 20 12-23-2007 04:46 PM
.12 Engines sale all new pipes too. 6 engines ericsp2 R/C Items: For Sale/Trade 1 08-06-2007 02:19 PM
os engines compared to rb engines rhymster Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 4 08-03-2007 05:13 PM
IDM engines and picco engines foampervert Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 5 11-23-2006 05:36 AM
SH engines crazyjr Onroad Nitro Engine Zone 7 01-20-2006 03:13 PM



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are Off



All times are GMT -7. It is currently 06:06 AM.


We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites.
Powered By: vBulletin v3.9.2.1
Privacy Policy | Terms of Use | Advertise Content © 2001-2011 RCTech.net