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Old 04-18-2005, 08:46 AM   #1636
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Quote:
Originally posted by BundyMan
Ed, sorry off topic.

Aren't the current F1 engines using bi-metals after beryllium was banned since year 2001?

Rgds
It was banned to use for brake pads and it has nothing to do with liner-BRB never been use as liner on real cars.
F1 uses Al block cyclinders, not Bi-metall.
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Old 04-18-2005, 08:49 AM   #1637
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Well done Palmaris Racing HK, soon we will be following in OZ land
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Old 04-18-2005, 08:52 AM   #1638
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Quote:
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
It was banned to use for brake pads and it has nothing to do with liner-BRB never been use as liner on real cars.
F1 uses Al block cyclinders, not Bi-metall.
Ed,

Mercedes/Ilmor used aluminium beryllium for the cylinder blocks in F1 race engines during the 90's before Ferrari pushed to have it banned. But I dont believe anyone ever used Bi-Metal technology.

Last edited by Palmaris Europe; 04-18-2005 at 08:58 AM.
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Old 04-18-2005, 09:51 AM   #1639
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Quote:
Originally posted by Palmaris Europe
Ed,

Mercedes/Ilmor used aluminium beryllium for the cylinder blocks in F1 race engines during the 90's before Ferrari pushed to have it banned. But I dont believe anyone ever used Bi-Metal technology.
I do belive in this, a lot of Al alloys containing very exotic materials, but it is still Al alloy, not a Bronze.
Edward
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Old 04-19-2005, 10:09 AM   #1640
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Quote:
Originally posted by daniz24


I give my one and only .21 BRB P/S which I bought from kitracer (Thanks Chris ) to one of our best buggy driver here and he promise he will test it on his JP FX21 B5 and give me some result.
daniz24,

is it to John agus
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Old 04-20-2005, 06:32 PM   #1641
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Psssst...
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Old 04-21-2005, 02:15 PM   #1642
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Quote:
Originally posted by Surge
I suggest you try the leaner bottom end/richer top end setting. I saw a BRB engine tuned like a normal Nova engine and the engine was not near as fast as when retuned Edwards way. I think the bottom end needle was at least a turn leaner Edwards way than the other way. That's just an example. It may not be the same for every engine, so start 1/2 leaner then move slowly from there.
Todd,

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Old 04-23-2005, 08:52 PM   #1643
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Default centax clutch

Hey Chris,

i would like if you could explain a little on adjusting the clutch. what we are looking for when the clutch is adjusted properly? and also the effects of loosening or tightening it and if so what are the effects or purposes of it. and what it does to the opperating temp. of the engine and the response it has on the car in or out of the turns and so on. Some we may know already but also always ready to learn more. thanks Peter
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Old 04-24-2005, 07:43 AM   #1644
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Finally I can get this thing scream on today's race. It runs between 115-120C but still kinda rich on the bottom. And also the fuel mileage is still a problem for 5 minutes heat. I'm using O'donnell 25% with 0.5 mm shim (on JP FX crankcase) with Nova 52607 pipe and 7Tf plug.
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Old 04-24-2005, 10:34 AM   #1645
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I have a similar question to daniz24:

I ran my 2nd JP FX Palmaris today and I have a head clearence of 0.4mm (measured with a piece of solder wire). I run 16% fuel and a 6TF plug. Air temp was around 16C.

I found that the power was excellent, but I couldn't get the temp above 100C without it leaning out completely.

The car would bog down (lean not rich) coming out of a hairpin after a few laps. At first, I thought it was the LSN too lean, but even after richening the LSN right out, the problem persisted.
I leaned the LSN back again (it idled at 70-75C) and richened the HSN, the power was back, but the temp after a hard run was 85C.

Is this because the head clearence is too small?

If I put another 0.1mm shim in, would this stop the engine leaning out at low temperatures?

Cheers, Mark.
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Old 04-24-2005, 11:12 AM   #1646
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Quote:
Originally posted by markp27
I have a similar question to daniz24:

I ran my 2nd JP FX Palmaris today and I have a head clearence of 0.4mm (measured with a piece of solder wire). I run 16% fuel and a 6TF plug. Air temp was around 16C.

I found that the power was excellent, but I couldn't get the temp above 100C without it leaning out completely.

The car would bog down (lean not rich) coming out of a hairpin after a few laps. At first, I thought it was the LSN too lean, but even after richening the LSN right out, the problem persisted.
I leaned the LSN back again (it idled at 70-75C) and richened the HSN, the power was back, but the temp after a hard run was 85C.

Is this because the head clearence is too small?

If I put another 0.1mm shim in, would this stop the engine leaning out at low temperatures?

Cheers, Mark.
Hi Mark. Take one .1 mm shim of and it will change behavior of engine. With 16% nitro-0.4 is little bit too much. lease remember you are running EFRA cranck with 7 mm hole and it is different to outlaw ( IFMAT, ROAR) type (7.5+ hole).
Edward
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Old 04-24-2005, 11:13 AM   #1647
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Quote:
Originally posted by daniz24
Finally I can get this thing scream on today's race. It runs between 115-120C but still kinda rich on the bottom. And also the fuel mileage is still a problem for 5 minutes heat. I'm using O'donnell 25% with 0.5 mm shim (on JP FX crankcase) with Nova 52607 pipe and 7Tf plug.
Daniz, I would sugest in your case lean bottom futher and slightly reach on top. 115-120 is pretty good temp.
Edward
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Old 04-24-2005, 11:24 AM   #1648
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Quote:
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
Hi Mark. Take one .1 mm shim of and it will change behavior of engine. With 16% nitro-0.4 is little bit too much. lease remember you are running EFRA cranck with 7 mm hole and it is different to outlaw ( IFMAT, ROAR) type (7.5+ hole).
Edward
Cool!!! Thanks for the advice, Edward - will do.

I almost had to change my underwear when my JP FX Palmaris hit the track - I could hardly bring it to a halt before the hairpin at the end of the straight - I thought I was going to have to order some new parts for my car
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Old 04-24-2005, 12:30 PM   #1649
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Default Re: centax clutch

Quote:
Originally posted by Speedypeterb
Hey Chris,

i would like if you could explain a little on adjusting the clutch. what we are looking for when the clutch is adjusted properly? and also the effects of loosening or tightening it and if so what are the effects or purposes of it. and what it does to the opperating temp. of the engine and the response it has on the car in or out of the turns and so on. Some we may know already but also always ready to learn more. thanks Peter
Peter, I like to set the bell clearance little further away from the clutch. It seems to work really well at our track which is fairly open or at track with good grip. Especially using BRB
RRR = 0.6mm
MTX3= 0.6mm
710 = 0.75mm

When the clutch is set properly, the engine' sound should be really "crispy" exist from a corner.
Most time, when I reset the clutch for guys at the track, immediately the Engine temp drop, next I lean the LSN to bring back temp... speed improve and use less fuel.

Other things to watch is the clutch shoe. When it is shinny, change it.
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Old 04-24-2005, 01:48 PM   #1650
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Congratulation to Todd Bathh with his 2nd place on South-West series race today. He was running REX RER with BRB 2nd generation in it and V1RRR car. Great job Todd!!!!!!!
Also congratulation to Pit-RACER with his 5 place-using NS12 with BRB 3 rd generation and S710 car.
Go Texas!!!!!!
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