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Old 04-03-2005, 09:38 AM   #1486
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Quote:
Originally posted by daniz24
I'm using 0.4mm clearance, X=1.3mm minus Y=1.2mm(underhead) plus 0.3mm shim with 20% nitro. Still can't get all the power out. Maybe they're still not fully broken in.
You should start seeing serious power from 10 to 12 tanks.

Check the plug' wire and see if it is in or out and adjust the head clearance accordingly. Don't just take & use what you had in the Nova set. Our set makes so much power.

Today we had the kyosho cup and I help tune few brb set in the morning that I think weren't so fast. I found they were under shim. After I re-adjust their clutches and add shims, Temp came down, RPM and Torque increased. Clearly fastest engines on the track.

I don't have the full result yet, but at least two .12 brb in the A main and one 21 brb in A main
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Old 04-03-2005, 02:03 PM   #1487
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Hi

Just back from Mendip running the BRB. I was using 0.4mm head clearance and the temp was around 220F The exhaust was not really up to the job and this might explain what I found.

Firstly the low end torque was not as expected and the fuel economy was terrible! I only just made 5 mins and in the 10 min final the second tank only lasted 4:30.

The revs were high and I was one of the fastest on the straight

I will get a better exhaust and see if this helps. I was leaning out the low end but found the car stalling. I thought it was the engine but later found the receiver dead so it was the fail safe cutting in. Maybe the low end needs leaning

There were a few other BRB sets on the track and they were not suffering like i was. My piston set is No 24.

Any suggestions?
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Old 04-03-2005, 03:07 PM   #1488
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what exaust pipe were you running and what plug?
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Old 04-03-2005, 03:11 PM   #1489
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Quote:
Originally posted by Speedypeterb
what exaust pipe were you running and what plug?
C6TGF and some crappy EFRA novarossi one with a bent stinger.

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Old 04-03-2005, 03:19 PM   #1490
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Quote:
Originally posted by kitracer
You should start seeing serious power from 10 to 12 tanks.

Check the plug' wire and see if it is in or out and adjust the head clearance accordingly. Don't just take & use what you had in the Nova set. Our set makes so much power.

Today we had the kyosho cup and I help tune few brb set in the morning that I think weren't so fast. I found they were under shim. After I re-adjust their clutches and add shims, Temp came down, RPM and Torque increased. Clearly fastest engines on the track.

I don't have the full result yet, but at least two .12 brb in the A main and one 21 brb in A main
You and Ed seem to differ about head shims. Ed suggests a low head clearance where you say more shims aere needed.

Theoretically i would think you would see an increase in torque for less shims up to a certain point when the power would disapear. And I would expect an increase of temp for more shims. Does this match what people are finding on the track? Seems not!

Cheers
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Old 04-03-2005, 03:23 PM   #1491
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Quote:
Originally posted by kitracer
I measured many crankpins and found anything from 4.22 to 4.27 on new set. Check yours and see.

And if your engine is stable and fast, I wouldn't worry too much.


Time to lean your engine and tear the track
If the crank pin is worn it will be oval. Put a caliper on it and rotate the crank. If the calliper moves then its worn and you will have to replace the crank

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Old 04-03-2005, 04:09 PM   #1492
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Quote:
Originally posted by kitracer
Today we had the kyosho cup and I help tune few brb set in the morning that I think weren't so fast. I found they were under shim. After I re-adjust their clutches and add shims, Temp came down, RPM and Torque increased. Clearly fastest engines on the track.

I don't have the full result yet, but at least two .12 brb in the A main and one 21 brb in A main
Buddy Chris,
Would you please let me know this guys' name? A main 3rd position yesterday.

Thanks.
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Old 04-03-2005, 06:51 PM   #1493
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Quote:
Originally posted by Top Gun 777
Daniz. For 20% fuel I will sugest to use 0.3 mm shimming-0.4 is little bit to high.
What temp are running?
Edward
I'm using O'Donnell 20% and the temp is 100-105C
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Old 04-03-2005, 10:55 PM   #1494
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Thanks Chris
I use your brb set in B main and got 1st, really amazing the engine speed
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Old 04-04-2005, 06:40 AM   #1495
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Quote:
Originally posted by dino.tw
Buddy Chris,
Would you please let me know this guys' name? A main 3rd position yesterday.

Thanks.
O yes, He is Mr Xmen(Cha Jai) with STS heat sink
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Old 04-04-2005, 06:52 AM   #1496
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Quote:
Originally posted by boy2rc
Thanks Chris
I use your brb set in B main and got 1st, really amazing the engine speed
O did not know that william. Congratulation!
Next time you have to be in A main.

I will run the Serpent cup in 2 weeks and will blow the Max 15 on the straight.. espeically that salty fish cheung for you
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:01 AM   #1497
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Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345
If the crank pin is worn it will be oval. Put a caliper on it and rotate the crank. If the calliper moves then its worn and you will have to replace the crank

Cheers
What do you mean " the calliper moves", it must be a big worn crank pin! With a worn pin, I found the differences usually within 0.05mm from top to bottom and sides to sides.
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Old 04-04-2005, 07:07 AM   #1498
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Quote:
Originally posted by ziggy12345
You and Ed seem to differ about head shims. Ed suggests a low head clearance where you say more shims aere needed.

Theoretically i would think you would see an increase in torque for less shims up to a certain point when the power would disapear. And I would expect an increase of temp for more shims. Does this match what people are finding on the track? Seems not!

Cheers
I don't mean "needed." You have to read your plug just like any other set. I have been testing on a fairly large track using 6mm stinger and 6mm carb, so I do need more head shims than 5mm stinger and 5.4mm carb.

You won't expect an increase of Temp for More shims. It should be the other way around if everything is equal.
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Old 04-04-2005, 09:10 AM   #1499
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Hey Chris are we using STS heat sinks righ now?
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Old 04-04-2005, 09:51 AM   #1500
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Quote:
Originally posted by kitracer
What do you mean " the calliper moves", it must be a big worn crank pin! With a worn pin, I found the differences usually within 0.05mm from top to bottom and sides to sides.
The pin should be round. If the caliper measures more than 0.03mm differnece from top bottom to side side diamerter the crank is knackerd

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