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Old 09-12-2013, 07:10 PM   #256
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Very informative, thanks!
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Old 11-01-2013, 02:48 AM   #257
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Default Starter Box Power

The breaking in method is very informative, thank you all for your effect.

Just a quick question, does the power of the starter box hurt the engines, I have some used 6 cell lipos (which is approx. 24V) and wish to use them on my starter box, and the power are very strong, will it damage a new breaking in engine, thank you in advance for your comments!!
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Old 11-01-2013, 08:39 PM   #258
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I do not know of any starter uses that high voltage; most uses 4S (14.8v) or 2x 7.2v nimh. With proper pre-heating, you should be ok. Hope it helps.
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Old 11-03-2013, 09:13 PM   #259
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Hi to all, I have a brand new beat bt5 engine and I was told to follow this way to broke in the engine. My first tank was on the top of the box with aluminum foil on top of the head. I managed to keep the temperature high enoug, but today when I was ready to put a load on it and run it, I wasn't able to make the engine start.just spouted for second and stops. I checked the glow plug and pjt a brand new one and no luck on some point you I was able to run the boxe on the flying wheel for a couple of seconds but no fire, the you hear like was ready to start with a bump on the box but nothing happen.
Any advice to solve this matter will be appreciated
Thanks.
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Old 11-04-2013, 05:32 PM   #260
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Thank you, I think I better buy a new battery then..
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Old 11-11-2013, 05:55 PM   #261
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brunito View Post
Hi to all, I have a brand new beat bt5 engine and I was told to follow this way to broke in the engine. My first tank was on the top of the box with aluminum foil on top of the head. I managed to keep the temperature high enoug, but today when I was ready to put a load on it and run it, I wasn't able to make the engine start.just spouted for second and stops. I checked the glow plug and pjt a brand new one and no luck on some point you I was able to run the boxe on the flying wheel for a couple of seconds but no fire, the you hear like was ready to start with a bump on the box but nothing happen.
Any advice to solve this matter will be appreciated
Thanks.
check and make sure your battery for the box and glow ign is
fully charged.also if the weather chaged much,you may have to move the H/S needle vavle some. newer motors can be a pain to start the first few cycles but be patient.small bumps are usually needed to get the motor to "POP" on the compr stroke.good luck and take your time,it will be well worth it.
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Old 04-06-2014, 06:03 AM   #262
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my friend was running in his os 21 xzr engine using this method. Making the engine ran in 2-3 mins interval(let cool) @200F for 7 cycles, then 3-4 mins @200F for another 5 -6 cycles. The temp stayed stable at 200F but it got flamed out twice in the last 2 runs.
when he examined the piston, it had scratched on the side of the pin at the exhaust side, only the upper oil ring remained complete as there are 2 rings on the piston. the scratch isn't going to the top all the way.
may i know why? someone suggested the LSN is not rich enough. please feel free to comment.
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Old 04-11-2014, 09:46 AM   #263
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Originally Posted by choisan View Post
my friend was running in his os 21 xzr engine using this method. Making the engine ran in 2-3 mins interval(let cool) @200F for 7 cycles, then 3-4 mins @200F for another 5 -6 cycles. The temp stayed stable at 200F but it got flamed out twice in the last 2 runs.
when he examined the piston, it had scratched on the side of the pin at the exhaust side, only the upper oil ring remained complete as there are 2 rings on the piston. the scratch isn't going to the top all the way.
may i know why? someone suggested the LSN is not rich enough. please feel free to comment.
Every OS 21 engine like that, the exhaust side normally expand faster than intake side, it becomes ellipse rather then round shape, when the sleeve is not heat enough, the pinch zone squeezes the piston. The reason is too early to get into high rpm. I used to warm up the engine with 50% throttle until it can shift up to 2nd gear, then full throttle.
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Old 04-16-2014, 02:50 AM   #264
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Thanks for your advice.
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Old 08-05-2014, 08:41 AM   #265
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If you are still idling at least a tank through during break-in, you're using the old-school accepted method (still works well for some!) but it's not the method that the top engine guys (Ron Paris, Dennis Richey, Rody Roem, Michael Salven are just a few I've spoken personally with about this) recommend anymore.

From the very 1st time you start your engine, plop the car on the ground & begin running it in a parking lot in 2-3 minute intervals, tuned only *slightly rich* getting the temps up in the 200F range on a normal day. Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes, it'll be ready for the track and race tuning. I realize this method goes against the old-school "idle on the box" routine, but you'll be amazed once you've completed this break-in routine, your OS will still have amazing pinch w/out sticking at the top AND your XX's compression will last far longer than it will with the "old school" method.

You say you run the engine at "factory settings" for the first FIVE tanks? That alone causes lots of stress, as the factory XX settings are very rich on every XX I've ever owned or tuned. The piston & sleeve haven't expanded to operating temps, and every time the engine turns over, the piston slams into the pinch zone at TDC. The not-so-surprising result can be a cracked con-rod at the crank pin--that's where the majority of the stresses occur as the engine turns over. I've only heard of about 6-8 XX engines breaking con-rods, and they're ALWAYS during the first gallon...and almost every time it's because the guys have performed the break-in procedure you described. Doesn't seem like a mystery as to why it's happening. Drawing out the break-in routine really stresses the engine & actually wears away compression along the way. This method I've outlined will feel weird at every step, but after you try it once, you'll notice a big difference in your engine's performance & lifespan.

Hope this helps; give this break-in method a shot--you have nothing to gain except longer life & more power

not written by me , stephen bess wrote the article
Thanks for your good information.

I have a two questions about your break-in method.


1. Is it good method for Picco engine?

2. How about use same method in HUDY bench tool (not running condition)
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Old 01-18-2017, 11:47 AM   #266
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Has anyone used a break-in bench to break in your motors and is it worth the money and safe to do.
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