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Old 09-30-2009, 09:51 PM   #106
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Thanks Monty.
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Old 10-07-2009, 01:40 AM   #107
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i have new JP FX21 B5T engine, I read the instruction sheet it, but i don't know the fuel is used for it to break-in, how many percen oil and nitro have in fuel!
And last one, how break-in to make this engine work best, and longer old!
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Old 10-07-2009, 07:35 PM   #108
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Originally Posted by AK_Nguyen View Post
i have new JP FX21 B5T engine, I read the instruction sheet it, but i don't know the fuel is used for it to break-in, how many percen oil and nitro have in fuel!
And last one, how break-in to make this engine work best, and longer old!
All of your answers are within this thread.
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Old 10-08-2009, 08:15 AM   #109
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Some one a little while back in this thread asked what is the best engine stopping techneiqe when heat cycling... no one has replied and after doing my 1st 20 minutes of heat cycling on my new Toro Nero today i was also wondering if i was doing the right thing stopping it in various ways


Can the guys that know there stuff answer this question please...




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Old 10-08-2009, 03:38 PM   #110
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Some one a little while back in this thread asked what is the best engine stopping techneiqe when heat cycling... no one has replied and after doing my 1st 20 minutes of heat cycling on my new Toro Nero today i was also wondering if i was doing the right thing stopping it in various ways


Can the guys that know there stuff answer this question please...




Dave
Pluggin the pipe keeps it from leaning out. Pinching the line causes it to lean out breifly before stopping.
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Old 10-08-2009, 04:25 PM   #111
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stop the flywheel with your shoe or the handle of a screwdriver...
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Old 10-08-2009, 07:42 PM   #112
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I pinch the fuel line. Makes start up next time much easier. I know its leans it out, but not long enough to hurt it any. If you are a temp watcher, it wont go up much or if any.
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Old 10-13-2009, 05:08 PM   #113
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rc skyline View Post
Some one a little while back in this thread asked what is the best engine stopping techneiqe when heat cycling... no one has replied and after doing my 1st 20 minutes of heat cycling on my new Toro Nero today i was also wondering if i was doing the right thing stopping it in various ways. Can the guys that know there stuff answer this question please...
Dave
Dave, here's the answer I provided to a similar question:

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There are absolutely no ill effects that come from running the engine out of fuel. On the contrary, I find that it's the best method. I don't say that to pick on anyone in this thread, so please don't read this the wrong way. Most people who say it's bad for the engine probably just took someone's word for it who they believed was knowledgeable about nitro engines. Those people have never taken the time to observe the effects, or lack there of, of running the engine dry at the end of the day.

I've been running nitro engines for nearly 30 years, and have stored engines without running them out, and others I've taken the time to run them dry. I found there is far more potential harm that can come from storing the engine with residual fuel in the crankcase. The engines stored by just shutting them off suffer more corrosion, even with the use of rust inhibitors. The engines that are run dry are usually corrosion-free and have never suffered any extra wear - one of the more ridiculous urban legends in RC. there's plenty of residual oil on all the moving parts that for the fraction of a second that the engine remains running after the fuel has run out, it's virtually impossible for any extra wear to take place. Imagine how worn out the engines would be from regular running - You come off the throttle at the end of a long straight and the engine winds down from 40,000 to somewhere in the mid 15,000 rpm range. The whole time, the engine is getting virtually no fuel because the carb is almost closed. If the engines were so fragile as to suffer ANY wear from simply pinching the fuel line to shut them down, then normal running on the track would kill an engine after just a few tanks of fuel.

I run the engine dry all the time, whether it's between runs or to store the engine until I run it next. These are the engines that have given me the longest service life and produced excellent power up to and beyond 10 gallons of life.
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Old 10-13-2009, 11:43 PM   #114
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SteveP
You guys rocked the nitro world when you published the article "The Truth About Engine Break-In" R/C Nitro Magazine (January 2002), also "Super Engine
Tuning" R/C Nitro Magazine (September 2001) was an excellent article.
Before you guys at R/C Nitro wrote that article about heat cycling above 200 degrees we where all destroying our engines running them cold on the starter-box at rich factory settings.It was a great magazine!
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Old 10-14-2009, 12:09 AM   #115
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Thank you for the kind words. I enjoyed doing the Nitro Magazine very much. The funny part is, we got a lot of hate mail from the "because that's the way we've always done it" people, and even some engine manufacturers. If you look at an engine instruction manual from the late nineties to early Y2K, the vast majority of them still advocated the Fat Idle method of break-in. I guess it's hard to change some people's minds that quickly, but I'm happy to say that the magazine re-opened the discussion about these methods and eventually set a new standard in engine break-in technique and tuning. The one item that generated the most hate mail was the idea that you should richen the fuel mixture in colder weather. Everyone was so stuck on the damn "210-220 degrees" thing, that they started using the mixture setting as a thermostat. That was the toughest urban legend to crack.

Thanks again for the trip down memory lane.
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Old 10-14-2009, 11:20 AM   #116
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You guys also wrote a ground breaking article, I really can't remember but I
think it was called "The Holy Grail". It was printed either in R/C Nitro or R/C
CarAction Magazine shortly after Nitro's engine break-in article. It was about
the Pinch-Zone. I'm still searching my R/C magazine archives for this article.
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Old 10-14-2009, 11:23 AM   #117
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Somewhere in my house the RCCA with that article (and the kyosho snakebite QRT with the gx.11 on the cover) still lives, my what a long way we have come.
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Old 10-14-2009, 04:42 PM   #118
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I have a Rustler and an 8ight. I just got a dynamite mach 2 .21 for the 8ight. I noticed that the traxxas break in procedure is quite thorough, is it ok to break in my new dynamite engine in this manner? Will it damage it if I do it the traxxas way?
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Old 10-17-2009, 12:30 AM   #119
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Yes, you can use the same method for the Dynamite engine.
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Old 10-17-2009, 06:36 PM   #120
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Quote:
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Dave, here's the answer I provided to a similar question:

Thanks for the detailed reply Steve, I totaly agree with your words as it makes perfect sense to me



Cheers

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