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Old 08-13-2010, 10:40 AM   #226
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Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes,

So when it says 25 total minutes does that mean only do 10 minutes of driving on 3-4 minutes or does it mean do 25 miuntes on 3-4 intervals? Thanks
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Old 08-16-2010, 06:22 PM   #227
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We will have our 12v Comp heater available in Sept. You can power from 11.1v Lipo in your starter box. Super trick...
That would be perfect.Thanks.
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Old 09-04-2010, 07:43 PM   #228
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Every 2-3 minutes, shut the engine down & let it cool completely with the piston at BDC, and then fire it back up; continue this cycle until you've run 15 min or so, and then bump up to 3-4 minute intervals. Vary the RPM and don't be afraid to get the temps in the 200's. What you want is heat cycling of the components without the incredible stress that comes with breaking an engine in when it's overly rich & cold. After cycling the engine in this mannerfor about 20-25 total minutes,

So when it says 25 total minutes does that mean only do 10 minutes of driving on 3-4 minutes or does it mean do 25 miuntes on 3-4 intervals? Thanks
25min @ 3-4min runs with varied throttle.

Here's what I do and am doing currently...

Heatgun on the engine to 180F-200F each time I start it up during break in.

15min run it 3min at a time 1/4 throttle or so down straight. turn around come back 1/4 throttle. Stop and BDC the piston and let it sit 10min.

Next I do 4 min at a time doing 1/2 throttle going away from me, ease off and turn it around and bring it back toward me at 1/4 throttle. Repeat for 25min or so. BDC the piston and let it sit 10min.

Then I do another 15 min at 1/2 and 3/4 the same way I mentioned above.
Let it sit 10min after this, again piston at BDC.

Then I do 1 tank (whatever minute mark it ends up being doesn't matter) where I ease the throttle in and pull it back to 100% and count to 3 while I do it. So when you start pulling count 1 and by 3 you should be at WOT. Then back it off, bring it around and repeat. Again, when you start pressing the throttle count 1 and at 3 you're WOT and you back off. I leave it sit here for 10min again at BDC.

Then I do 100% throttle just like above, but I let it run a second so I start at 1 and hit the throttle, when I get to a 3 count I'm at WOT...then at 4 I ease off and bring it around for another pass. Then I leave it cool again at BDC.

After that I run it carefully around, not leaning it out very far unless it needs it to keep running properly. I play around with it somewhere and am very cautious of my throttle control. I don't like to slam the trigger back to 100% like you're trying to run a drag race, I ease into it. Driving normally, only doing enough to get you through. No wild man stuff here.

When it's broken in, which depends on the engine in question, you just know it. It will start having more power but the engine will show signs of being overly rich. At this time you may lean it out slightly and run it some more watching temps if you have a temp gun of some kind. I don't really worry about an engine running hot if there's plenty of smoke, some engines run great at 260F and some run great at 220F. There's no best temp to my knowledge. I test the temp to make sure it isn't too cold when I run it. Remember you are looking for heat to get things worked in, cold temps in the engine make the engine run slower but also take longer to fully break in. I am not aware of an engine failing flat out from being too cold, but it seems that Nitro engines open up better (that is achieve optimum power) more quickly and reliably with a bit more temp.


I'm still learning a lot of the technical aspects of Nitro engines etc, but I've done this break in method on numerous engines in various vehicles with good results.

Last edited by Dredd; 09-04-2010 at 08:04 PM.
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Old 10-31-2010, 12:38 PM   #229
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I'd like to talk "fuels" for a moment. My engine manufacturer recommends that I use a speical fuel to break in the engine that has 14% ungummed castrol oil (first pressure acidity lower then 0.5) or 7% castrol oil
+ 7% synthetic oil; 80% pure methanol; 6% nitro.
I see Morgon has "cool green" which also produces sidewinder fuel, is this the best fuel to break in a engine and how much do I run though my engine before swithing over to my normal running fuel?
Also with the lower amount of nitro won't it take more run time to get your heat cycle up to 200 degrees?
cheers chawker
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Old 11-12-2010, 04:35 AM   #230
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Just a quick question:
When breaking in a new engine, specifically a more high-end/race engine, is it bad to not heat up the engine when first starting it? Im talking straight ambient temp. Would it change the longevity of the engine, or affect its life performance?
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Old 11-21-2010, 04:20 PM   #231
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Just a quick question:
When breaking in a new engine, specifically a more high-end/race engine, is it bad to not heat up the engine when first starting it? Im talking straight ambient temp. Would it change the longevity of the engine, or affect its life performance?
depending on the engine, but for the most part I have yet to run an engine in the last 8 years that didn't need to be heated up. If you don't heat it up enough it pounds the connecting rod and your probably not going to have the piston and sleeve sealing as well after.
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Old 11-21-2010, 08:42 PM   #232
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The engine in question is an RB T10 - ive taken a look at it recently, and yesterday felt the compression compared to other peoples engines - all the others felt like they had twice the compression I had, even they said so. When I had the engine out of the car, i listened for air coming out of the firing chamber and could hear air escaping. The engine is just coming on to 2 months old, only seeing about 1 gallon/4 litres.
As soon as I get enough money and finish my electrics race this week, Im hoping to send the T10 and a JLR P/S off to rayaracing for a re-pinch - even the Picco (2 of them, same engines) wore out prematurely/after a few months! It just doesn't make sense. I think it may be becuase I never got the engines to go up to 100 degrees celsius close enough before starting to properly break in and form itself better. Ill definitely try to do that this time, I hope it will make it last a hell of a long time longer! 2 months is just ridiculous!
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Old 12-10-2010, 06:50 PM   #233
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DJ_Shakespear View Post
The engine in question is an RB T10 - ive taken a look at it recently, and yesterday felt the compression compared to other peoples engines - all the others felt like they had twice the compression I had, even they said so. When I had the engine out of the car, i listened for air coming out of the firing chamber and could hear air escaping. The engine is just coming on to 2 months old, only seeing about 1 gallon/4 litres.
As soon as I get enough money and finish my electrics race this week, Im hoping to send the T10 and a JLR P/S off to rayaracing for a re-pinch - even the Picco (2 of them, same engines) wore out prematurely/after a few months! It just doesn't make sense. I think it may be becuase I never got the engines to go up to 100 degrees celsius close enough before starting to properly break in and form itself better. Ill definitely try to do that this time, I hope it will make it last a hell of a long time longer! 2 months is just ridiculous!
Always when you shut-off the engine, check that the piston is at the bottom.

Break-in has alot to do with how much compression/pinch is left after it.
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Old 12-10-2010, 08:14 PM   #234
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Originally Posted by Sprint Doctor View Post
I'd like to talk "fuels" for a moment. My engine manufacturer recommends that I use a speical fuel to break in the engine that has 14% ungummed castrol oil (first pressure acidity lower then 0.5) or 7% castrol oil
+ 7% synthetic oil; 80% pure methanol; 6% nitro.
I see Morgon has "cool green" which also produces sidewinder fuel, is this the best fuel to break in a engine and how much do I run though my engine before swithing over to my normal running fuel?
Also with the lower amount of nitro won't it take more run time to get your heat cycle up to 200 degrees?
cheers chawker
I know this is a late reply but here's my advise.

I know nothing about Morgan fuel but I would use the exact same fuel you plan to race with but add 1 or 2 ounces of a good castor oil such as Klotz Benol.
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Old 02-04-2011, 04:21 AM   #235
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i need help and advise.. I got a SSK V2 monster and my break in style is - richen abit by 1/4 of its actual setting ..... so i ran 1/4 throttle for 3mins and stop to cool down and the piston below..10mins - 15 mins i start again and run 3-4 mins 1/4 throttle again and rest .. so this almost took up a TANK of 75cc..2nd tank same but 5-6mins each run and 10-14mins cool down till almost finish, 3rd tank half throttle 3-4mins..rest 12-15mins and repeat till almost empty tank......so 4th tank running first few run half throttle..den a few jerk at 3/4 throttle for 5mins den rest for cooling...so is this ok break in????? total tank used 4 tanks used ..dont tell me about tempreture as i do not have a temp gun...

Last edited by Episode; 02-04-2011 at 05:04 AM.
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Old 02-19-2011, 08:12 AM   #236
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hi, i got my new engine... Picco EVO 4 .12. I need to brake in it but have only track (no parking) and no heat gun! What advise will You give me to do that?
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Old 02-19-2011, 09:30 AM   #237
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first advise:buy a heat gun!
the second:use a 1/10 tyre foam around the head to keep the temp up during the break in period.
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Old 02-19-2011, 10:45 AM   #238
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like where i can get heat gun?
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Old 02-19-2011, 04:01 PM   #239
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Hairdryer or in a more extreme way a paint remove heat gun.
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Old 02-19-2011, 10:43 PM   #240
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Or you can use a H1 bulb from a 1:1 car connected to a 12 volt battery. Wrap the head with alu foil, a sock etc. and flip the car upside down. Put the bulb in the head, and let it light for approx. 2 min. Use the spit method to check the temp of the engine, if you haven't got a tempgun
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