Never had one of them in my hands so I cannot tell. I do know that even 2 same engines from Novarossi but from different production dates can have different timings.

Saying that most of the variance I've encountered in Novarossi engine timings tends to be on the crank shaft not the sleeve.

You tend to find the transfer ports close at 115 degree before TDC, and the exhaust port 88 degrees before TDC on most Novarossi designs, occasionally the exhaust port will be a few degrees higher on 'tuned' versions.

The crankshaft opening tends to be 33-35 degrees after BDC and the closing tends to be around 62-64 degrees after TDC this is where you get the most variance in my experience.

Intake is always at 65 degrees from BDC (your 115), exhaust at 92 ? Most of todays engines are at 93-95 degrees from BDC, even the N21-5T is at 93 degrees
The 14.5mm crank is indeed arround 35/64 but a 1 degree difference will make a difference on the track or just the feeling how it response.

I personally do not believe in the special (high cost) main bearing which seems it is not used in the Mito-C models althoug Novarossi wants you to believe it.

All I know if you buy the most latest and expensive engine you will get the fastest engine. Anything older or cheaper is configured with lower timings. It will not say the cheaper/older engines are bad, they can even perform better in the hands of a less experenced driver because lower timings will give a easy tuning and a better driveabillity.

You've measured more engines than I have so you're probably right! I've only really measured RB stuff which maybe timed a bit lower than Novarossi, I've only just made the switch to Nova as you know! I just timed a new Ison .21 and its sleeve is 97/65 and the crank is 41/62 or something similar I can't quite remember off the top of my head, but it's the crank shaft timing that's the limiting factor in this engine, stilk very quick though! And great useable power band!

I needed to change my rod, but instead changed to a new crank. When I changed the crank the pin on the crank took away the play in the rod. There wasn't much play, but now it's gone. Should I still change the rod? or will it be same as changing the rod on the old crank?

SPECS ON STOCK NOVI SERPEANT NITRO 1/8 SCALE .21
 

WHATS RPM RANGE AND HOW MUCH HP ON NITRO MOTOR FROM SERfPEANT 1/8 RTR:)

The play on a fresh Novarossi engine is 0.02mm. 5mm on the rod and 4.98 on the crakpin. It is wise to run a tank with a slight rich adjustment so the first surface roughness is taken away.

On the telemetry my JP 35+ did reach just over 46.000 rpm. Manufacturers are saying 2.7hp in the specs but I believe on a dyno it is about 2hp max.

THANK YOU I HAVE ONE ON MY GT2 AND WAS WONDERING WHAT SPECS WAS..

Sorry, not sure if you got what I meant.
Instead of changing to a new rod, I changed to a brand new crank I had sitting around. It took the play away from in the crank. Should I also change the rod?

Roelof,
What exactly are those measurements for?

What are people's impression on the Mito .12 motor? What about runtime? I currently have the Keep-On .12 and it has been treating pretty well, but I am looking to possibly upgrade it.

With Novarossi .21 engines a fresh crankpin is 4.98mm and a fresh conrod has a 5.00mm hole. It is meassureable with a digital caliper. And measure on several positions arround because the wear is not equal round.

I have a P5 Engine, what Pipe do I want to use for this engine with my Mugen MGT7 for more top end.

The Mito .12 is a great engine. Runtime is good, 5 minutes is not a problem on 16%, or 25% nitro. The Mito is smoother than the keepon.

Novarossi 2015
Novarossi 2052
Novarossi 9886

These are all good pipes for GT