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-   -   Novarossi engines thread (https://www.rctech.net/forum/onroad-nitro-engine-zone/29453-novarossi-engines-thread.html)

turbo250r 05-04-2010 08:51 PM

wow
 
This motor still ran?? surprise the piston isn't all chewed up.

spurgear 05-04-2010 10:29 PM

I was thinking about the importance of the silicone filled crank. Just a reminder guys we are not talking about a few rpm. And i think the more rpm the greater the force? So balance is important right?

occ 05-05-2010 06:57 PM

Which Model to choose?
 
Hi guys,

I need to buy a new .21 Nova On Road engine but wondering which model to choose from the list below.:confused:

1: Novarossi 35 Plus21 Factory Tuned
2: Novarossi Flash 21 Factory Tuned
3: Novarossi Flash 21 Special Tuned
4: Novarossi WC/09 Limited Edition Lamberto Collari Engine

Any suggestions?

I do like the bottom end power of the 35 plus 21 but so thinking either buy that model or the WC/09 model.

wingracer 05-05-2010 07:15 PM


Originally Posted by spurgear (Post 7362139)
I was thinking about the importance of the silicone filled crank. Just a reminder guys we are not talking about a few rpm. And i think the more rpm the greater the force? So balance is important right?

Not as important as many people like to make it out to be. You can NOT perfectly balance a single cylinder engine. Plus the silicone has almost nothing to do with balance.

kuruption 05-05-2010 10:32 PM

Hey guys, I am going to get a Flash .12 3-port for my NT1. What would be a good header/pipe combo? Thanks.

cdelong 05-06-2010 03:39 AM


Originally Posted by occ (Post 7366383)
Hi guys,

I need to buy a new .21 Nova On Road engine but wondering which model to choose from the list below.:confused:

1: Novarossi 35 Plus21 Factory Tuned
2: Novarossi Flash 21 Factory Tuned
3: Novarossi Flash 21 Special Tuned
4: Novarossi WC/09 Limited Edition Lamberto Collari Engine

Any suggestions?

I do like the bottom end power of the 35 plus 21 but so thinking either buy that model or the WC/09 model.

A stock 35+21 is more than enough. I had a factory Tuned Cordoba that was ballistic. It spent most of its life in the pit bag. A Kangaroo is a good value as well for $100 less. Look on Murnans site- best prices and service around....cheaper than NovaRossi direct. For the money, his break in service is good as well if you haven't broken-in many engines. If you don't have him break it in, at least use his "in car" method. Buy an extra rod and clips for after the break in :)

http://www.murnanmodified.com/index....ebbb5a802cffa1

martinh 05-06-2010 03:54 AM

As already mentioned you cannot perfectly balance single cylinder motors. The optimum balance is around 60%, To get up to 60% you need to add quite a lot of tungsten weight opposite the pin &remove a lot of weight around the pin area + lighter rods and pistons. Most motors from a few years before they started adding tungsten weights and working on better balance only had around 25-30% balance. Most high end motors that are now balanced in this way use around 50% balance. To get up to 60% you do need to refine things quite a bit whilst still leaving strength around the pin/rod/piston area. What this balance % means is you weigh the piston/rod/wrist pin/circlips assembly and take the relevent % you want to use for example this assembly weighs 7.5 grams then 60% of this = 4.5grams= the balance factor.What this means is you need to make a weight with a hole in it so it sits on the pin of 4.5grams.crankshaft now sat horizontally on 2 knife edges with weight on the pin,you should be able to rotate the shaft at any point through 360degrees and shaft will sit at any point without revolving. Martin.

martinh 05-06-2010 04:06 AM

The simple formula for this is half the weight of this complete assembly + half weight of the little end of the rod (rod needs suspending horizontally with just the little end on scales & divided by 2). This is for optimum of 60%. Their is quite a wide window on balance re silicon fitted or not. Obviously the closer to a giving balance is better though. Martin.

HoboShop 05-06-2010 04:54 AM


Originally Posted by occ (Post 7366383)
Hi guys,

I need to buy a new .21 Nova On Road engine but wondering which model to choose from the list below.:confused:

1: Novarossi 35 Plus21 Factory Tuned
2: Novarossi Flash 21 Factory Tuned
3: Novarossi Flash 21 Special Tuned
4: Novarossi WC/09 Limited Edition Lamberto Collari Engine

Any suggestions?

I do like the bottom end power of the 35 plus 21 but so thinking either buy that model or the WC/09 model.


Most of the racers I have talked to pefer the powerband of the 35+21 over the flash. Even factory drivers, the flash tuned has alot of topend but I would go with the 35+21 stock or tuned motor when tuned right and with a good clutch set-up are very fast. The flash has a little more top end and gets better fuel mileage. However the collari 09 had more bottomend than both if them and gets the best fuel mileage but it cost more than the stock 35+21. I think the collari has the best of both worlds power and runtime. That s what I am going to get for the nats. But either way you can't go wrong with any of them the flash is great for those long straightaways!!!!!

occ 05-06-2010 11:24 PM

Thanks cdelong and HoboShop for your replies. Much appreciated.:nod:

Think I will get the 35 plus 21 as the price is reasonable compared to the others.

jaykay 05-07-2010 01:55 AM

What is the effect of the two diffrent needles for the carburetor which are include in the Novarossi 353 Flash 3tunend engine.

There is a long and a short one.

C. Nutz 05-07-2010 08:54 AM

Looking for clutch suggestions for losi eight 2.0 bug/trug? I'm running the three shoe clutch on both? Plus 4c in bug and toro nero in trug?

wmay11 05-07-2010 09:40 AM


Originally Posted by occ (Post 7366383)
Hi guys,

I need to buy a new .21 Nova On Road engine but wondering which model to choose from the list below.:confused:

1: Novarossi 35 Plus21 Factory Tuned
2: Novarossi Flash 21 Factory Tuned
3: Novarossi Flash 21 Special Tuned
4: Novarossi WC/09 Limited Edition Lamberto Collari Engine

Any suggestions?

I do like the bottom end power of the 35 plus 21 but so thinking either buy that model or the WC/09 model.


35+21 Is prob the best option, I am not so crazy about the smaller bigend on conrod with the Cordoba engines.

BLKNOTCH 05-07-2010 05:54 PM


Originally Posted by Twisted_Metal (Post 7361671)
Wow! of the 9 years I've been doing this I've never seen a engine internals look this bad... I've ran about 3 gallons of Byrons Gen 2 in my engine and it looked nothing like this. I'm surprised there isn't more damage ..

Not to sure why you would think there should be more Damage or any problem like that? in your 9 years you have never seen varnish build up from fuel that has been sitting in an engine for about 4 months? This is all this is in the engine, on my last run from the 2009 season I dropped afterun oil in the engine and left it alone. Thats where I made my mistake as I should have taken the engine home and dismantled it for a proper cleaning. All the grit that is on the parts in the pics is only from my pit towel when I took the engine apart and it all stuck to it. I have since cleaned this engine off to a like new finish on all the parts, then ran it last weekend where it was strong as ever. So I am just pezzled as to the comments that it is soo bad?

Sean

wingracer 05-07-2010 06:06 PM


Originally Posted by BLKNOTCH (Post 7375600)
All the grit that is on the parts in the pics is only from my pit towel when I took the engine apart and it all stuck to it.

Now that makes sense. That stuff had me worried :D


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