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Old 07-20-2004, 09:26 AM   #1021
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Default Re: nitro content?

Quote:
Originally posted by noobatron
Hey guys,

i'm currently running 16% nitro on my D5 atm. Would it rev faster if i put the copper shim back and run 30% nitro?
With correct tuning it should rev faster.
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Old 07-24-2004, 01:24 AM   #1022
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Default STS carb

Hi dino,

I was using a RB carb before and have decided to swap back to the STS carb. I havn't used the carb ever and noticed that the mid speed needle is not flush to the carb, it looks like half a turn out(.05mm) from the carb. Is this right? Should i adjust it to be flush with the carb or is this the factory setting?


Thanx
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Old 07-24-2004, 09:48 AM   #1023
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Default Re: STS carb

Quote:
Originally posted by noobatron
Hi dino,

I was using a RB carb before and have decided to swap back to the STS carb. I havn't used the carb ever and noticed that the mid speed needle is not flush to the carb, it looks like half a turn out(.05mm) from the carb. Is this right? Should i adjust it to be flush with the carb or is this the factory setting?


Thanx
Yes,adjust it to be flash with the carb.
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Old 07-24-2004, 12:40 PM   #1024
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Default Re: STS carb

Quote:
Originally posted by noobatron
Hi dino,

I was using a RB carb before and have decided to swap back to the STS carb. I havn't used the carb ever and noticed that the mid speed needle is not flush to the carb, it looks like half a turn out(.05mm) from the carb. Is this right? Should i adjust it to be flush with the carb or is this the factory setting?


Thanx
Why did you change it did you like the rb carb beter ??
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Old 07-24-2004, 08:29 PM   #1025
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Default Re: Re: STS carb

Quote:
Originally posted by dino.tw
Yes,adjust it to be flash with the carb.
THanx for the reply Dino, I've yet to try it though.
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Old 07-24-2004, 08:31 PM   #1026
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Default Re: Re: STS carb

Quote:
Originally posted by 20 SMOKE
Why did you change it did you like the rb carb beter ??
Hi smoke. Before breaking into the engine i inspected all the parts and found that the high speed needle in the D5 Carb to be abit gritty and would sometimes get stuck, or not close fully. So i used the RB carb which is still 6.5mm like the D5. However, i wanted to see any performance difference bw the 2 so i'm going to try the D5.

any tips?
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Old 07-27-2004, 05:31 PM   #1027
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Default STS D21B

Bout time dino you got this baby its own webpage ( http://www.stsrc.com.tw/engines/D21B.php )

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Old 07-27-2004, 08:16 PM   #1028
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I need another .12 so i have two and then start with off road that way there i have a fleet of cars. Hey Dino think you could make one for a Mini T
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Old 07-27-2004, 09:41 PM   #1029
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Default Parts IN!!!!!

hey all i just recieved my D3R p/s set and installed them in the D3 case, just need to break-in the engine; once i find the time. Hey does anyone remeber the stock settings for the D3(D3R)? is it 4-HSN and LSN-flush with carb body and the mid-needle flush?

But yeah I am stoked!!!!

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Old 07-27-2004, 10:11 PM   #1030
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Default

Hope you have better luck with yours than I have with mine.

I can't get the engine to run properly without seeing temps in the 230(idle) - 270F(after running) range. If I go to a cooler setting it is way to rich to rev out and usually stalls after idling for 3 secs when the throttle is opened.

I've tried the factory settings (LSN 4 turns out, Mid fulsh and HSN 4 turns out) but these are too rich for the motor to rev and it idles at 230F. I have tried all manner of needle settings but it's not happening for me. I pulled the carb to pieces, replaced one damaged o ring, sealed every part of the carb I could and still it seems like it has an air leak at idle.

I didn't have this trouble with either my Force 15 or the Picco Omega XT I was running before, although these were both rotary carbs.

I bought a couple of second hand motors and these are going to have to do since this STS motor is very unfriendly. I want to race, not spend frustrating days dicking around with the settings that I can never get right.

I wouldn't even want to sell this motor to someone else as I couldn't handle selling someone a dud.
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Old 07-27-2004, 10:18 PM   #1031
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*opens arms wide wide open*
I wouldn't mine giving it a go, with the option you take it back if you want it... ?! <grin> (Yeah im in OZ)
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Old 07-27-2004, 10:25 PM   #1032
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Default

Quote:
Originally posted by Z00M
Hope you have better luck with yours than I have with mine.

I can't get the engine to run properly without seeing temps in the 230(idle) - 270F(after running) range. If I go to a cooler setting it is way to rich to rev out and usually stalls after idling for 3 secs when the throttle is opened.

I've tried the factory settings (LSN 4 turns out, Mid fulsh and HSN 4 turns out) but these are too rich for the motor to rev and it idles at 230F. I have tried all manner of needle settings but it's not happening for me. I pulled the carb to pieces, replaced one damaged o ring, sealed every part of the carb I could and still it seems like it has an air leak at idle.

I didn't have this trouble with either my Force 15 or the Picco Omega XT I was running before, although these were both rotary carbs.

I bought a couple of second hand motors and these are going to have to do since this STS motor is very unfriendly. I want to race, not spend frustrating days dicking around with the settings that I can never get right.

I wouldn't even want to sell this motor to someone else as I couldn't handle selling someone a dud.

Zoom

Try add extra head shims and run #7 plug for start, you should see the different.
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Old 07-27-2004, 10:33 PM   #1033
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Quote:
Originally posted by tl2111
Zoom

Try add extra head shims and run #7 plug for start, you should see the different.
Thanks Tommy, I'll try that, but I would have thought that increasing the combustion chamber size would have made it even richer, but it's the only thing I haven't tried. I spoke with Dino yesterday and he said using only the aluminium shim (copper shims removed) with 16% nitro and a Novarossi #5 plug should have been fine.

I'll throw the shims back in it and see what the deal is. I've got an RB #7 plug there so I'll see what happens.
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Old 07-27-2004, 10:54 PM   #1034
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Quote:
Originally posted by Z00M
Thanks Tommy, I'll try that, but I would have thought that increasing the combustion chamber size would have made it even richer, but it's the only thing I haven't tried. I spoke with Dino yesterday and he said using only the aluminium shim (copper shims removed) with 16% nitro and a Novarossi #5 plug should have been fine.

I'll throw the shims back in it and see what the deal is. I've got an RB #7 plug there so I'll see what happens.
ZOOM,

You still use the smaller cooler head? 9 fins one?
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Old 07-27-2004, 10:57 PM   #1035
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I use whatever head came with the RS5 as standard, as this is an RS5 converted to a D3.
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