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Old 07-07-2005, 10:11 AM   #1771
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Artificial-I
Im running the same plug. Im running 20% I dont know why my settings are so far off.Did you take out a shim? I might try just buying some 30% and seeing how it goes.
When your engine is under low compression setting,you have to lean it more for getting enough power. Also,your engine is running under poor lubrication because you have to lean it more.

There are many factors have effects to the needle setting. For example...
Same engine same chassis when I use STS 6mm outlaw pipe,the HSN may is 2.6turns out. When I change back to STS 5mm legal pipe,I need to lean the HSN to maybe 1.5turns out. When I use Tornado Fuel,I have to lean the engine more because the Tornado fuel is very thin. Very good fluidity let the engine has better acceleration. When I use Byron fuel,I have to rich the HSN back. Byron fuel is more thicker. It has the best protection to your engine. So sometimes "how many turns out from the end" is just a reference. You just make sure there still have smoke out of the pipe,that means the engine is running under well lubrication. If you still worry about it,temp gauge is a good tool. Keep it not higher than 240F is a easy way.

Last edited by dino.tw; 07-07-2005 at 02:32 PM.
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Old 07-07-2005, 03:09 PM   #1772
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dino.tw
When your engine is under low compression setting,you have to lean it more for getting enough power. Also,your engine is running under poor lubrication because you have to lean it more.

There are many factors have effects to the needle setting. For example...
Same engine same chassis when I use STS 6mm outlaw pipe,the HSN may is 2.6turns out. When I change back to STS 5mm legal pipe,I need to lean the HSN to maybe 1.5turns out. When I use Tornado Fuel,I have to lean the engine more because the Tornado fuel is very thin. Very good fluidity let the engine has better acceleration. When I use Byron fuel,I have to rich the HSN back. Byron fuel is more thicker. It has the best protection to your engine. So sometimes "how many turns out from the end" is just a reference. You just make sure there still have smoke out of the pipe,that means the engine is running under well lubrication. If you still worry about it,temp gauge is a good tool. Keep it not higher than 240F is a easy way.
Yeah the car is running around 220F.

So you think the carb and everything is running good otherwise correct. Yeah I figure in all cases a car thats running rich is good as it indicates its not leaking which would be the only problem I could think of for a carb to have.
I do have a roar legal 5mm pipe. The RDlogic pipe. I will try the 30% or the shim removal and let you know if this gets the carb and engine into range.

Also if this makes sense the car was making more power the night before. I guess because the lower temps at nighttime , the denser the air which increases oxygen levels which allowed the car to run leaner.

If so at least I know its just a case of needing more power. What plug do you suggest for the car or will that rely on the shims and fuel usage or can would you be able to reccomend based on where I run. Hot / Humid.

Im running a r7 hpi plug which is listed as medium cold.
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Old 07-07-2005, 06:23 PM   #1773
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I like the r7. All I have to do know is lean the low end a little bit because it stutters on the get go because it has to burn off the extra fuel. When I get a close to perfect setting Ill post it here.
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Old 07-09-2005, 12:21 AM   #1774
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The d5r seems to be a real strong Engine...I am hanging with os .18cvr's no problem
Still would like to know what the next series of Engines is going to be
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Old 07-09-2005, 03:10 PM   #1775
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rge63
The d5r seems to be a real strong Engine...I am hanging with os .18cvr's no problem
Still would like to know what the next series of Engines is going to be
maybe a rr series would be nice
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Old 07-10-2005, 02:01 PM   #1776
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Ok I'm having mega problems starting my d5r, the pinch at tdc is unreal! Ive tried 2 1/8th scale starters and both have real problems initially getting the motor to rotate. I have a heat gun and that gets the motor to a nice temp but it doesn't help. removing the glow plug has little effect.
I wish project zen still had there breakin bench!
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Old 07-10-2005, 03:51 PM   #1777
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You can try taking apart the motor. Then apply some after run oil to everything. Then reassemble.

Or if you have some polish you can polish the skirt a little bit to get it somewhat smooth and larger to allow it to spin easier.

Just be sure to fully remove all polish afterwards. I normally keep taking different towels to it and just keep rubbing until not one bit of black comes off it.

Then get some afterun oil on a paper towel and rub it all over the inside skirt and piston. This should help out quite a bit along with what your already doing. Also you can polish the outside of the skirt as well. Should help things out a little.

What fuel percentage are you running?
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Old 07-10-2005, 05:23 PM   #1778
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hi AI, I'm running 16% with a hot plug.
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Old 07-10-2005, 05:42 PM   #1779
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I wonder if you will run into the same rich settings I have with the lower percentage nitro fuel. Let us know once you get things going.

Also is it rotating over at all or are the boxes not getting any turn? I have a single 12V and it was able to get it going it was just my settings were very rich to where it wouldnt fire.
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Old 07-10-2005, 06:09 PM   #1780
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I've managed to get it spinning a few times but it refuses to start, but I need to be persistent, its just such a git when the piston gets jammed at tdc.
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Old 07-11-2005, 07:45 AM   #1781
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take the plug out ,heat the block up, probably wouldnt hurt to put some oil in the cylinder(may have to pinch off the fuel line?to keep fuel from spraying out)
Crank it over for a while without the plug in, then put the plug in, maybe a little loose. then try to fire it up.tighten plug once it fired..
You will probably have to leave the igniter on the plug too for a while.. good luck
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Old 07-11-2005, 11:00 AM   #1782
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hi... I have some trouble with my D21B engine on a buggy
I run it in nicely very very rich for 1/2 gallon/ 2,5 liters

now I closing the high needle for 1 liter already
and the engine is giving the RB and p5 a run for their money already...

my problem : after 2 tanks the engine is shutting up each time a few seconds or so, after putting it on the track and it continues like this so I just can't run anymore, even if I give full trottle at the beginning to clear excess fuel from starting or whatever, everything is ok , till I put it on the track and drive a few meters, it seems something exstingises the plug (new) after that , some residu of oil in the motorblock????

I run always a bit rich also bottom but this issue is ridicules
what can be the problem ???? help !!!
could it be a clutched airfilter ?must I clean it every time?

Last edited by speedy2; 07-12-2005 at 04:08 AM.
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Old 07-13-2005, 07:34 PM   #1783
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Where can i find a D5 or D3? Rc-Mushroom had the best deals but they are out of stock!
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Old 07-14-2005, 12:25 AM   #1784
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TMizzle
Where can i find a D5 or D3? Rc-Mushroom had the best deals but they are out of stock!
If you are in the states, you can contact projectzen.net. They will give you very good deal on the engines and engine parts...
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Old 07-14-2005, 12:55 AM   #1785
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedy2
what can be the problem ???? help !!!
could it be a clutched airfilter ?must I clean it every time?
hi

it seems you dont clean and oil your air filter often? if not then fine dirt would of gotten into your engine. where i race, we get no water on the track and very fine dirt, so i have to change filter every 30minute of racing.

open engine up and take out all the components.

then take a tissue to the inner walls of the crankcase, if there is some dirt there it will cause what you describe... how do i know?? same thing happen to me.

once dirt get in there, spraying WD40 will not get out all the dirt, unless you scrub it. i used a toothbrush.

u also need to check the bearings and see if there is "play" in the rod and crank pin.
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