burger

This also sounds like a bad seal on the front bearing with the inconsistent problems you are having.

If the o-rings are all good, this might be the issue. Bad seals cause air to leak into the motor and makie tuning nearly impossible.

Boca sells a double seal bearing to replace it that is very reliable.

J

burger

I finally fired up the D3 and I'm about half way through break-in. I heated the head and used the heavy duty starter box to fire it up and it idles rock solid. I have finished the 2 minute cycling and need to run a liter or two though it running rich before I lean it. Can't wait, but I know I have to!

Thanks for everyone's help.

J

NitroOB4You

iTrader: (36)

Congrats Burger...Im jealous ...lol...
I think Im gonna send the complete engine back to STS, let them have a look see....hopefully mayve they can figger it out. In the meantime, I just bought a Black Pixi, which will hopefully yield better results and get me racing for now.

NitroOB4You

iTrader: (36)

Upon looking at the front bearing, I do see some "goo" that has seeped out, but I would have assumed this to be normal for any engine....not sure....in total I have maybe gone through two tanks full of fuel.

NitroOB4You

iTrader: (36)

Hmmmm...diddle diddle didd ..look what I find...
It appears that one of the screws holding the engine backplate worked it's way off to never never land...also it's three brothers were very loose in their respective "homes"....
Ok...I found a replacement and used a dab of lock-tite on all of the screws...BUT! this still does nothing for the carb feeling very gritty and sometimes getting stuck

dino.tw

Do you mean your carb sometime getting stuck?
Take out the throttle link. Use your fingers to open/close the throttle. Check it if it's smooth. Than put on the throttle link. Make sure your throttle link and the throttle are in a straight line. As I knew LD3 needs to put on some shims above the servo arm to make the throttle link and throttle keeping in a straight line. And you need to adjust the carb's direction but make sure the carb's dust protection will not touch the crankcase.When you close the throttle;then break,the throttle shouldn't be moved....damn....hate my poor english ....how to explain that? Before you adjust your carb,make sure your mechanism works fine first. Do you have other kits or your friends? If you can use other kit to test this D5 before you send it back,it would be good. Because when you send it back it need 7days delivery,and I need some days to test it and 7days delivery to send it back....
I have a race tomorrow,can we talk later?

au_Nightmare

I did not use shims but I turned the carb as Dino said and I turn the ball on the carb barrel around so it was same height as the rod from servo.

If you do not align it up correctly it does bind! so take off the servo linkage and operate by hand, if its free then the problem is with alignment.

papanillu

I just bought an STS RS3 engine,
when I opened the box I found an additional conrod, and I would like to know when is th best moment to change it.

I use 16% nitro fuel.
Can I use the same pins and e-clips?

I also found there was no stickers in the box, and I love stickers, can I also ask for them?

Regards from a Sunny Barcelona(Spain)

ziggy12345

Check the head clearance on the Pixy. I removed all the shims and its still around 0.20" so can only use 25-30% Nitro. Goes like a rocket now!!

NitroOB4You

iTrader: (36)

The carb seems to be gritty and bind up a bit when I move it by hand...if you read back to my very first post, I believe I mentioned this. NightMare, I too have turned the carb and the "ball" link, however I am using the two shims as noted in Ofna's instructions. I tried not using them and that wont work...I guess Ill just keep fiddling some more...mebbe I oughta just bring it to my LHS. Im thinking my idling problem was most likely due to the back plate so maybe if I fiddle some more and can get the linkage set correctly I will try running it some more today. Thank God for 3 day w/ends

NitroOB4You

iTrader: (36)

Can ONLY??? use 25-30%....are you saying it should be broken in with this as well? I gotta see if there's a thread on it and Ill read there if so....
I know with the D5 , it is suggested to be broken in with 15%...this is why I am questioning. Thanks for the heads up and further info

ziggy12345

Yes broken in with 25% but high oil content

Only if I turn down the head button on a lathe to give me 0.016" could I go to 16% Nitro

Go to the head shimming thread in the nitro engine section for a full explanation.

http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthre...5&goto=newpost

Motorman sorted me out. I hated the pixy until i found the problem and now I'll prolly get another

Cheers

TOEBSTER2

iTrader: (6)

Hey guys I got 7 tanks through the D5 and piston is still sticking in sleeve. What's up wit dat? Should I keep Babying it?

20 SMOKE

iTrader: (103)

NitroOb4you put a few drops of after run in the carb and slide with your hand might be a little dry oil helps it move keep playing with the alignment with the servo i had a tc3 just take your time and you'll get it.

NitroOB4You

iTrader: (36)

Thx 20 Smoke....I have already done that